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Replace an 88 Blazer engine with a 76 Blazer 350...

So, this K5 was what it seemed. Just had a blown head gasket. Easy enough fix according to the dude who went out to look at it with me. But, the guy wouldn't budge from his $1k asking price. So, now I'm back to trying to fix the transmission on my 76.

My question now is, other than a rebuild kit (that mechanic said it sounds like the gears need to be replaced), where would I get more gears? Everything I've seen online for transmission rebuilds only seems to include "gaskets, seals, bushings, and friction material ," according to most sites. I'd hate to buy a used transmission from the junkyard just to have it screw up like this one.
 
Torque converter you can't rebuild, you'll need to buy a new (many "new" ones are rebuilt units FWIW) one. Never re-use an old one IMO, you simply can't tell what shape they are in without cutting them in half, and you can never clean them out completely.

I don't think I'd get real worked up about which rebuild kit to get, as long as they have good frictions, which any name brand likely will. Some might have preferences they can help you with. I haven't rebuilt an auto for a long time.

Anything internal not coming in those kits are considered "hard parts" and your only reasonable source is likely a spare trans, or a transmission rebuilder that sells used parts. Hard parts are called that because under normal circumstances, they do not need to be replaced, they are re-used. The TH350 is a good transmission, I don't think there is any inherent problem with them, although I know they sell what is called a "case saver"(?) for one particular issue.
 
As far as the torque converter is concerned, I'm confused by what the stall is. On monstertrans.com, it lists 11 different ones. Anywhere from $170 to $800. I won't be doing any heavy towing or offroading, just a daily driver. I'm just not sure why I'd need to go with anything more expensive than the 1350 stall at the bottom of this page: http://www.monstertrans.com/store/categories/Torque-Converters/GM-Chevrolet/Turbo-350/

Thanks for the help.
 
IMO it's best to let the converter manufacturer pick the converter you need based off the specs you give them. Or the trans builder can help you pick one.

Without getting into depth.....You are going to want a lower stall speed in your truck. Ever stand on the brakes for all they are worth and floor the throttle without the tires spinning? There is a certain point were the rpms stop. That's basicly your converter stalling. Put that same converter behind a motor making more hp and it will stall higher. There is more to it than that but that's the basics. You want a tighter or lower stall for a big heavy 4x4.

Going to need to explore getting it rebuilt vrs new one vrs trusting a used trans. Problem with you trying to figure out yourself what the trans will cost is you haven't opened it up to see what's wasted.

IMO when you get it rebuilt a transgo shift kit is a good thing to add. A trans does not need to bang every gear hard even at low or mid throttle. Some think it's cool or needed but IMO it's crap and just hard on stuff.

Remember to clean the trans cooler too. They sell studio type cans with a hose that you put on the cooler line to flush them and the cooler.

Regardless you are to the point were the trans needs to come out right? Either you are swapping it, or someone else is. Might as well get it outa the truck now. Then you can decide if you want to take it somewere for them to open up and tell you what it will cost to fix.

A flywheel wrench and a 3' or longer extension will make life easier. Also a good trans jack. You can make do with some ingenuity though. I made a plate for my floor jack, a couple of ratchet straps. All kinds redneck engineering can work :D a real trans jack makes a 1 man R&R much easier.

Saying this now because im thinking of it....On replacement making some long dowls can help. 2 Bolts that has a shoulder that threads into block/bellhousing. Cut head off and round that end. Cut slit in top of it. Thread into block, slide trans onto dowls, put other bolts into bellhousing/block to hold trans. Use screw driver in slot to back out dowls if they are stubborn. Install last 2 bolts. Also make sure your converter is seated all the way back. It will take spinning and wiggling for it to make it's final seat. The converter will be slid back away from the flex plate. If during install the converter is up against the flexplate STOP and don't tighten your bellhousing bolts down. Make sure it's slid back some when the trans and engine are together. If anything seems like it's in a bind or not seating stop. If you try to just suck down one side and something isn't right you can easily damage the trans.
 
Thanks for all the info. So, that 1350 stall converter should be fine? I'm looking to do this as cheaply as possible, cause I'm strapped for cash. I already ordered a transmission repair manual, now I just need to decide on the converter and rebuild kit.
 
IMO before you start ordering parts you need to get it outa and apart and see what if any hard parts are wasted. Can't remember if you said what the fluid is like? If your going for absolute all out cheapness if the clutches are smoked and it didn't send shrapnel into the converter you may gamble and reuse the converter. I say may and gamble heavily. It's a gamble. If you broke hard parts or there appears to be metal in the fluid(sparkly, tons of particles on magnet) I would absolutely not reuse your converter. You just won't get it clean then you will send trash through your rebuilt trans. If the clutches are just smoked and not delaminated bad or lotsa metal on metal and you just want to get by on the cheap, you arnt planning on keeping it a long time and it's not going to completely hose you if it smokes the clutches again(or actually frags something hard) due to contamination then maybe swapping just clutches will work. I'm not recommending it and I wouldn't but is an option. By reusing the converter you are going to send a few quarts of nasty assed burn ATF through your new trans. No way around it. You can drain it as best you can then try to dump fresh ATF in there to try and rinse it but you won't ever get it clean.

Good plan on ordering a book first. Thumbing through it will give you an idea on what you might encounter and give you an idea if you wish to tackle it.
 
That converter will prob work. For your truck you will want a "tight" converter. If it gets to that point I'd talk to rhe converter company you plan to buy from and have them pick out the right converter. It's like picking a cam. Unless you really know what you are doing it's sometimes best to let the manufacturer pick out what you need. With converters you really do get what you pay for. But again if your trying to go low buck as possible gotta make due
 
I'll call Summit Racing tomorrow and see if that converter will work. I'll tear open the transmission once I get the book and see if I can get by with just a rebuild kit. I'm hoping I don't have to replace the whole thing. Thanks for the help.
 
Did you rule out the '88 completely? It would be a much better rig. Fuel injected, overdrive, better rear floor pan.

Martin
 
It would definitely be a better rig, but he wouldn't take less than a thousand for it, and I can't afford that and the cost to fix it.
 
Trying to put the tbi back on the older engine might be more work than it's worth. You can swap a non tbi intake to tbi heads, but not the other way around. Unless you want to re drill heads. You could probably drill the intake holes out like you do on the non tbi intake to tbi heads. But I don't know how that would work out.

At any rate, you could just swap the tbi heads onto the older engine and run everything normal. Or you could just get a fuel pressure regulator and run the carb.
 
Or you could just use an adapter plate to use the TBI on the carburetor intake, like GM used from the factory on early 454's........

Martin
 
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