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Replace m.c. after disk swap????

BamBamblazer

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 24, 2002
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Location
McCordsville, Indiana
Has anyone had to replace their master cylander after doing a disk swap on a 14ff to get a good pedal? If so what was it from? Also i have read that you can adjust the push rod to the m.c. How is this done? is it right behind the m.c.? I guess just unbolt it and adjust out slightly then re-install? Any help on either subject will be great.

p.s. I have ok brakes but the pedal is about 3/4's the way down before it starts to grab. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I put a mc off of a 65 vette with four wheel disc. I think I know it was an older vetter. Made the pedal a little better. Soft, but stops great.
 
So the pedal is still soft but the brakes are good? That may be the answer. I need to find something this week cause im goin wheelin next weekend. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
as far as I know the problem with the prop valve is it causes the rears to lock up first. My rears don't lock, so I think i'm ok with the stock prop valve??
 
I just put in my D60 today, and with my stock 1/2 ton MC, it has a low pedal. It's because the piston in the MC is too samll to move the volume of fluid for the larger 1 ton calipers. A set of calipers stuck on the rear, will require a lot more brake fluid to me moved, that's why you're getting a low pedal, the caliper pistons don't acutate far enough to lock the brake until the piston in the MC has reached the end of it's travel. I would try switching to a 3/4 or 1 ton MC and see how that works for you. I asked what the differences are between the MC's in another post ( here ), but haven't gotten an answer yet. Hope this helps you some.
 
I just changed over to a 3/4 ton MC and it made the brake pedal firmer, and the brakes a bit stronger. Not bad for $22...
 

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