Replace rear leaf springs?

[gothamist]

Right now I have a stock height 75 K10, which I am in the process of rebuilding enough to go wheeling with. I plan to lift it between 2" and 4" and run 35's until they wear out (and I have enough money to get new axles.)

Question: Do leaf springs "wear out"? I am investigating the shackle flips but am not sure I really want to stick with my old rear springs...I know some people get them "rearched." How much does this cost? Where would I go to get it done? And is it worth it? My truck really sags in the rear (about 2".)

Is there a place where I could get new or takeoff OEM springs for a good price? I don't want to spend $200+ on stock springs @ LMC when I could just buy lift springs at that price.

Any other advice is of course welcome. Looking for a good compromise between ride quality and $$$, just afraid the standard 4" EZ ride + ORD/DIY4X shackle flip will let me down if my rear springs are trashed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[bp71k5]

I suppose the bushings in the springs wear out before the actual springs do. My stock 1971 springs were still working ok before I put lift springs on. The blazers kinda sag in the back anyway when you lift them so plan to add ~2" to the rear if you lift it any. For example, if you want 4" lift in front then plan to add 6" in the rear.

 

[vortec]

with open diffs, since the right tire is more often the one doing the spinning, then hooking up, you'll get more axle wrap on the right side, and that will wear the spring out faster. in the very short term, i'll probably swap my rear leaf packs side to side, when i do my lift (the blocks will only be temporary, as well) since that pack seems to be more tired than the left side's. sort of half-ass and cheap, i know, but it's temporary.

 

[Mudstud]

As far as the rear sag I don't think I would conclude a 2" difference in lift between front and rear is needed at this point. It's easy enough to swap in a 1" zero rate in the back if it comes to it. I think 2" higher would put you high in the rear. No one has mentioned 2" add a leafs in the rear as an option. I would not shell out the $$$ for a shackle flip. They are easy enough to make yourself if you have the means, materials and time to do it. My 2 cents.

 

[vortec]

I would not shell out the $$$ for a shackle flip. They are easy enough to make yourself if you have the means, materials and time to do it. My 2 cents.

but is there a safe strong way to do it without welding? most homebrew flips i've seen are just the stock hanger with the bottom cut out. looks like that would seriously weaken the structure, and using the shackle under compression is harder on it and using under tension, anyway. what about using an "H" shackle to mount on the outside of the stock hanger and retain all of the original metal?

 

[gothamist]

I would not shell out the $$$ for a shackle flip. They are easy enough to make yourself if you have the means, materials and time to do it. My 2 cents.

Thanks (everyone) for the information. The means/materials and time are not issues, just knowledge. I haven't seen one of the shackle flips in person but I have thought about making both a shackle flip and a front 52" spring hanger for the truck (I seem to be a lot better at building parts than fixing things on my truck.)

What about the setup on the Ultimate Adventure K10? 4" front springs + shackle flip and longer 88-98 rear springs? That seems like a fairly inexpensive way to go, I just don't know if that would lead itself to axle wrap with the longer rear springs?

 

[Big Blzn]

As far as the rear sag I don't think I would conclude a 2" difference in lift between front and rear is needed at this point. It's easy enough to swap in a 1" zero rate in the back if it comes to it. I think 2" higher would put you high in the rear. No one has mentioned 2" add a leafs in the rear as an option. I would not shell out the $$$ for a shackle flip. They are easy enough to make yourself if you have the means, materials and time to do it. My 2 cents.

Just my opinion. I know there are members of all economic backgrounds on this site and not everyone has money to shell out for pricey upgrades, however, it would only cost $189.00 from ORD to purchase the flip and maybe a few dollars more for other parts and extras. Quite frankly, if you think this is too expensive of an upgrade do one of two things:

1. Stop buying beer, fast food and other ancilliary/frivilous items for several weeks or months and do it the right way and safe way. Don't skimp on parts that could compromise safety and well-being.

or

2. Sell your blazer/truck now because you got yourself into a hobby that is too expensive for your economic situation.

Do it right or don't do it at all.

 

[Mudstud]

I guess your definition of 'right' is to shell out cash. Cash doesn't make it 'right' nor does it make it any more stronger or safer- It's just another way of doing the same exact thing. I will get a shot of my rear flip this weekend and post up. All it is comprised of is flat cold rolled stock, longer bolts, washers, and a couple pieces of tube/pipe to sleeve one of the bolts. It does make for a harsh ride if you do not move your hanger forward. I have not as the ride is not intolerable. Best pic I have at this time.

 

[Big Blzn]

I would just hate to see something happen to people if a very important part such as a shackle flit blow apart at a bad time if it wasn't built properly. Vendors at ORD and DIY4X are pros and have done extensive testing on their products. Plus, their flips are really not that expensive compared to their importance to a good solid rig. Sure there are plenty of members on this site that can build great/safe/strong flips in their garage, but come on, for less than $200 you can get a time tested part like that, you can't go wrong. I suppose what really eats at me the most is that there are so many people that try to improvise with parts and things critical to their rig that in reality if they just saved a little money they could get the "right/safe" part for their needs. Like I said, this is and expensive hobby and I would hate to see people try to take the cheap way out and something bad happen.

 

[fireplug]

diy kit is also great for the long term, as you can play with shackle length and positioning, and flip 'em if you wanna go longer. As you grow in experience you inevitably end up changing your mind and the needs of your rig evolve. Flip is the way to go imho vs springs.

 

[W7NB]

Springs wear out!

Yes springs do wear out - The metal will fatigue and develop microfractures eventually. The pads wear out etc.

You are running on 32 year old springs! Replace them and be done with it.

 

[Dafey]

Yes springs do wear out - The metal will fatigue and develop microfractures eventually. The pads wear out etc.

You are running on 32 year old springs! Replace them and be done with it.

SO replace the Stock springs and do a flip? [in the rear anyway ]

I think replacing my rear springs would lift mine 2" ,mine look flat as a board...

 

[W7NB]

SO replace the Stock springs and do a flip? [in the rear anyway ]

I think replacing my rear springs would lift mine 2" ,mine look flat as a board...

Actually, I bet 2 inch lift springs and a shackle flip would ride decent and have good flex - better then my 4" lift springs probably.

 

[Dafey]

Actually, I bet 2 inch lift springs and a shackle flip would ride decent and have good flex - better then my 4" lift springs probably.

Does`nt a shackle flip give you 4" ? Plus 2" springs would give me 6" in the rear..Right? Then I would need 4" in the front at least...?
Right now with 33x12.50 I have plenty of room,I havent rubbed yet.I was just wondering about my springs,they look flat,when they get worse going back stock would give me some more lift than I`m used to.Unless say 2" springs are cheaper...