Replaced axles - Wheel Alignment?

[dlaw36]

I just did an axle swap - same 10 bolt but with different gears and lockers. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif I used my old tie rod in hopes to keep a good alignment. It seems to be drive fine (no pull to right or left) and wheels seem straight.
Would it be benifical to get another alignment even though it drives fine?
Is there anything that I can measure to insure that my tires are straight if I don't get aligned?

 

[heavy4x4]

If you used your old tie-rod and didn't change out the knuckles or anything, then your alignment is fine.

If you want to check it, do the following:
If you're looking at your driver's-side front tire, from the driver's side, you'll want to use the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions on the tire. Take a tape measure and measure from the 9 o'clock position on the driver's side tire to the same postion on the passenger side. Then do the same for the 3 o'clock position. It doesn't matter where on the tire you measure to, but you have to pick the same spot for front and rear (ie, I use the very center of my tire because there is a line of rubber down it from when the tire was made). Now you have those two measurements. The measurement for the front of the tire should be about 1/4" shorter than the measurement for the rear. This is called toe-in. It's spec'd from the factory around 3/16", but by measuring on the tire and not on the rotor/rim, you have to take into effect the increased distance from the rotor or rim. Somewhere around 1/4" is a good number.

 

[dlaw36]

No, I did not change the knuckles.

Thanks, That is just the info that I need. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[Blue85]

Yeah, I have found that with these straight-axle trucks, I can align the front end as well with a tape measure as the shops do with their fancy equipment. In fact, I prefer being able to tweak it just the way I want it instead of them saying "OK, you're in spec."

Now the cars with 4-wheel alignment, that's a little trickier...