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Replacement Engine options

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ak2003

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Need suggestions everyone.

I wanted to get as many opinions as I could on how I should go about upgrading my untouched 79 blazer.

First the facts:
1.Aging 350 on it's last legs.Rebuild? New engine?
2.Keep the stock axles,sm465 and gears? 3.73

I won't be using it to mud race in or be a rock crawler. Just a good offroad rig.
Here's what I'm wanting to end up with a dependable engine with enough power to run 35's on without it being a dog. Should I go with a stock GM crate 350 or rebuilt engine with a gear swap or a bigger engine without the gear swap. Whats the cheapest and most dependable way to go. My right foot isn't that heavy on the pedal. I'm kind of leaning towards the stock engine with a gear swap unless someone can persuade me otherwise.
I'd like to keep the cost below $3000

Thanks for the help.
Sterling.
 
383 Stroker would be a good engine. Everyone wishes they had more power. I'd go 383 and regear (swap in axles with lower gears) If you haven't already installed 3/4 ton or 1 ton axles, now would be the time. For the wheeling you do, 3/4 would be good. BTW, I paid $250.00 for my 3/4 axles with 3.73 gears. But 4.10 and 4.56 are comman in the 3/4 tons.
 
3000 bucks ........ /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif With that much money I would do a basic rebuild with some quality parts , I can get heads done locally for 300 bucks. Then spend the rest on new gears . Of course with more money I would just go out and buy that 383 Chevy crate engine and be done with it, only because I have less and less time free now. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
From what you say that you want and by how you drive, I would go with a stock GM 350 crate motor (dependable) and see how it does for power when you drive it. If you need more "go" then match your gear ratio to your tire size and transmission. A quality locker in the rear would be nice at this time also. Your transmission/clutch and driveshafts would be happier with different gears as opposed to a big motor.
 
$ 4 $, I'd rebuild the shortblock using a good rv type cam and have it balanced. Junk the heads and buy a set of decent heads with stainless valves and seats, 1.6 exhaust valves, teflon seals, bronze guides, and springs to match your cam, a good used dual plane intake (I paid $65 for a Performer), and a good carb. You should be able to get this done for under $1,800 if you shop around. This will provide enough torque and $1,200 should be enough for your new gears. Then you'll really be ready to go!
/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
i just ofudn my answer. mine is an 889 so i have TBI. Recon makes a 210 (stock replacement) and a 280 horse 88 up replacement. $1650. Any way I have looked at it it is easier to buy the longblock and the cost is about the same. around here its about 530 bucks to machien the lower end. A rebuild kit is around 300 and a cam about 150. thats nearly 1000 jsut on bottom end. a rebuild on the stock 76cc heads is around $550. thats 100 short of the long block and it's already assembled.
 
I just had my 350 rebuilt. Let the machine shop do all the machine work and assembly. Cost $1300 which included some extras: new Performer intake, Comp Cam w/ new springs, and balancing. I was shocked when I picked the motor up and they had even primed and painted it. They also pre-primed the oil system.

I would definitely regear.
 
Had my Goodwrench 350 in for 2 years and love it. Same price as a rebuild and you get a good warranty. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
if you do much highway driving i wouldnt go lower than 4.10's with 35's. that is, unless you like going 55 mph and getting honked at by the people who are going 75.

i would get a long block ,maybe the GM crate 260 hp one, buy a perfomer intake and assemble the rest yourself. instead of re gearing swap in a 14bolt rear that already has 4.10 (most common gear i think) and either get a front axle that has the same gear and 8 lug spindles or regear your front and do the 3/4 conversion
 
I think the Goodwrench 350 is a good idea.

There is one catch, which is why I didn't do it. You have to be installing the motor in a truck that came factory with a 350. Otherwise you don't get the good warranty. Then the warranty is the same as the machine shop's.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Then the warranty is the same as the machine shop's.

[/ QUOTE ]
Isn't the warranty on the GM Goodwrench engines good for 3 years or 36,000 miles? I've never heard of a machine shop that would offer up a warranty like that. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
That's only if it is going in a truck originally equipped with a 350.

Otherwise it is 12mon, 12,ooo miles.

I originally had a 6.2L.
 
I purchased a 350 cu in goodwrench crate engine from Jegs. They offer it along with carb,manifold, ignition ect.It was less than $2,000. Has 3 yr 36,000 mile waranty.

/forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

Fred
 
Hmmm?
A virgin '79?
My .02
Explore what engine is currently under the hood.
See if it is worth rebuilding, like a 4 bolt main, if so keep it for later,.
Think about a new short block, 4 bolt main, (sometimes bad stuff happens and you need throttle) you'd be pretty safe, and buying a kit that comes with
heads, matching manifold, and a cam intended for the particular kit.
buying a used rebuilt short or long block could get you a 1 hole wonder, this is where they bore out one cylinder and oversize that piston, and only that piston.
or a crank that has been turned, and has 10/10 or much worse berings in it.
If your thinking 3/4 ton or 1 ton, add rims and tires to the total.
Doing alot of hunting for parts could keep you under your $3000.
And haggle with the people, try to get them to cut as many deals with you as possible. never hurts to try.
/forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif

edit, also, you might include what state you live in, in your bio, so locals around you can tell you who they trust with thier parts.
 
Here is what I did with my 79 K5 (had 180K miles on it)- and I'm happy with so far:

$650 + core charge to buy a rebuilt 350 from a chain auto parts store.

$500 + core charge to buy a rebuilt 350 auto tranny.

$900 for 4.56 gears front & rear, master install kits front & rear, and a detroit full case locker for the rear.

$800 for a 4" lift (springs all around), HD front shackles, competition bump stops, sway bar quick disconnects, stainless steel extended brake lines, & new sway bar bushings.

$900 for 4 BFG MT's 35-12.5-15's and black rock crawler rims.

I've done all the work myself and am very happy with the result.

As a bonus, I've used zero rate spring blocks in the front to extend the axle forward 1" which stops the tire rub on the rear of the fender wells.

That forced me to have my front drive shaft rebuilt and lengthened ($150).

So far the only thing that stops me are very steep inclines - the curse of a carburated vehicle. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
 
Buy the GM 350 long block from scoggin-dickey's 350 long block. $1300 for a brand new engine with heads and a good warrenty. You would spend almost as much for machine work on the whole engine. The cool thing is that the whole engine is brand new with heads, all you have to do is get an intake and carb. You could use your old stuff or get a new intake from edelbrock. CHP did a build up of this engine and made really good power that you would not need to do but if you did you could do at a later date. CHP 350 build up You could buy a rebuilt engine from an auto parts store for a little less but keep in mind that it is #1 rebuilt #2 may not be a quality rebuild. The left over money your could use for new gears and still have money left over. Hope this helps.
 
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