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Replacement of TV cable EDIT: rebuild time

Could you scan and post up the TV cable directions you found?
 
Good cooler but I would not suggest that tv cable. There are others available from most trans suppliers that have an end that lends itself well to a variety of applications. The cable you have listed joins in the center by a compression union and it is very easy to kink the cable and ruin it by overtightening. I would also suggest you save your money on the 5 pinion planet sets. They are stronger, yes, but in the 33 years I have been doing this I have not seen a pinion gear fail due to stress. Money would be better spent on improved sprags, clutches, servo, pump, etc.

Greg.....I may have cracked a 5 pinion planetary. And by may have, I mean it's in my souvenir drawer in the garage. I was wailing on it pretty bad though.

And op, sounds like you're going to have a blast with that trans. They really don't like quick forward-reverse shifting though.
 
Greg.....I may have cracked a 5 pinion planetary. And by may have, I mean it's in my souvenir drawer in the garage. I was wailing on it pretty bad though.

And op, sounds like you're going to have a blast with that trans. They really don't like quick forward-reverse shifting though.[/qu


Was that an OE planet or an aftermarket piece? I would like to see a picture of that one:D
 
I'll type up the directions here:

Page 8. Throttle and TV cable relationship
"Give your customer the full benefit of this kit and your talent by giving him the best possible relationship between shifting and engine torque. This may look like the "long way around", but in fact you will find it is the fastest way possible to give your work a real touch of perfection. Don't worry about figuring it out, just follow the steps and in 5 minutes you will be road testing the results"

1. Remove the air cleaner and place it on your bench (please).
2. Push the TV adjusting tab and move the cable housing 1 1/2 inches towards the carb.
3. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car. While they hold the pedal floored, you bend the throttle cable bracket away from the carb until the carb arm bottoms solidly against it's stop.
4. While someone is still holding the pedal floored, depress the adjusting tab and slide the TV cable housing away from the carb firmly until it stops. Release tab and let it lock.

TV and ROAD TEST: Many 88 and later gas models have a part throttle 3-1 & 2-1 KD (kickdown). I love it, they just come alive. This means that the TV could adjusted wrong and still have a low speed 3-1 or 2-1 KT. Then the max throttle 2-3 and 3-2 would be to low and pressure rise could be off in relationship to throttle opening. Here's an easy quick way to get it right on.
1. Adjust the TV to max: as explained in #4.
2. In the "3" position, at 47 MPH, make a max throttle 3-2 KD.
3. Reduce TV one click at a time until you do not have a 3-2 KD at 47 MPH.
4. Increase TV one click at a time until you once again have a 3-2 KD at 47 MPH. Make a MARK on housing. This will be the MIN MARK
5. Test drive and adjust TV for best shift feel between the MAX and MIN marks. Go for it.


There's a different procedure listed for Diesel, and I can type that up if anyone wants; I'm going to be reading the rest of these instructions even though the trans is already done.

Clay
 
It sounds like the added steps apply only to 1988-1991 models. It's too bad they're in MPH. Even from the factory, there were different gear ratios and tire sizes available, but with guys running everything from 28"-44" tires and 2.73-5.38 gears, 47MPH is too vague for a critical setting like this!
 
It sounds like the added steps apply only to 1988-1991 models. It's too bad they're in MPH. Even from the factory, there were different gear ratios and tire sizes available, but with guys running everything from 28"-44" tires and 2.73-5.38 gears, 47MPH is too vague for a critical setting like this!

I agree, in my mind there is only one way to set a tv cable, and that is as tight as possible at wide open throttle.
 
That's what I'm going to do :) tight as possible at WOT.

The new cable from LMC arrived yesterday, and it's much much better quality than the last one I received. The housing cannot come out of the adjuster; it also came with a seal, which the last one did not have. The last one was from LMC as well; I'm glad to see the better quality.

Looks like it might rain here today, but I've got some help coming over so we hopefully can get the hard work of getting trans into place before it rains. Truck is on the street...
 
That looks like an OE planet but the damage looks like something got between it and the low sprag race, maybe a sprag failure? Hard to tell from the picture but it doesn't look like any gears were broken:dunno:
 
That looks like an OE planet but the damage looks like something got between it and the low sprag race, maybe a sprag failure? Hard to tell from the picture but it doesn't look like any gears were broken:dunno:

Oh no the gears themselves were okay, the assembly itself cracked. I'm not very familiar with the guts of an auto transmission. The raised lip at the center has a crack and the ring looking thing that goes in there was completely shattered.
 
That would have been from a locked sprag in all probability, a shame since that is an expensive planetary assembly!:eek1:
 
Trans is in, and just went for a spin around the block a couple of times.

:)

It works, and so far it shifts nice too!

PS no leaks yet either.
 
So far it's good.

1-2 is quick, and just gives you a little nudge
2-3 is quick, and just feels like it "clicks in"
And then... 3rd has lockup now! That's pretty amazing, and the engine feels like it's got less load.
3rd decel also holds nice, where it probably didn't do much before.
Haven't gone fast enough to get into 4th yet.

I was reading more about the kit that my buddy installed. It modifies the TV system in the trans (as well as darn near everything else).
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?category_id=96&parent_id=31&product_id=167

I did flush the cooler & lines before install, and will be installing an additional cooler as well. Got one from Jegs; plate style 11" by 9" or so.

With this project, I gotta say it's real nice to have the friends that I do!
Clay
 
After the first day of driving to work, here's the opinions:

4th comes in sooner than it did before, around 40 mph actual speed. Seems to be sooner than it should, so I'll keep it out of OD unless on the freeway.

1-2 is nice. Really nice. Give it more throttle and it easily runs out 1st more.
2-3 is long, and I guess that's another thing this kit does. Give it more gas, and 2nd is really long, but good!
3-4 is short, but kickdown is so fast it's awesome. I only kicked it to 3rd but that was a part throttle kick, which it had difficulty doing before. More often than not, I'd manually pull it out of 4th.

Acceleration, although not a primary concern, is faster now, and it feels like the engine is under less load. Super nice. Fluid looks nice & light still as well :) TV cable has tension even with the throttle closed, which it did not before; upon pulling the pan previously, the TV valve itself needed help to come all the way out of it's bore. Now it pushes all the way out on it's own.

No leaks, and smells like a new engine all over again due to the paint!
 
Just wanted to give an update after driving with the rebuilt trans for a while now.

The trans has mellowed out a little, especially when warm. Still lets you know when it shifts, and when the TC locks :) In "drive", the shifts are firmer than when in "overdrive" which is expected. However, since everything is grabbing as it should, I now feel like I need to regear the axles.

2nd gear really runs out when getting on the freeway. Upwards of 50 to 55 mph; and let me tell you that with the Super 40 Flowmaster, well, a lot of folks around here really think it sounds good. My opinion is that it's a bit loud, but sure it sounds good.

Minor issues:
Maybe due to the new trans mount and shot engine mounts, or a bad U-joint (fallen needle perhaps), I've got a high-ish frequency vibe at around 60 mph. Too fast for out of balance tire, and the tires were recently balanced at that.

Still need to install the big trans cooler; heat is the #1 killer of automatic transmissions!

My buddy is recommending 4.56 gears... I am thinking that would be a good idea as well, especially if we are going to be towing (maybe), and hauling stuff (yes). He says with the clutches we used in the tranny, we can tow in 4th no problem if there's enough power. There is enough power, but it kicks down pretty easy now, where before it would hold 4th all the time. * Should have known there was a problem right there!

Still no leaks :)
 
The trans builder at work (on my trans):

IMG_20140109_203815_846.sized.jpg


Yes, that's an inch-pound torque wrench he's using.
 
On all my 700r4's I run lines from the trans to the radiator, to an external cooler, to an external filter, to the trans. I use -6an fittings on everything and have no leaks. I highly recommend doing that.
 
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