Replacing 350 with 383 Stroker in '78 K10

[handloader90]

Hey all,

My 350 is pretty much hanging on by a limb and I've decided to replace it with a 383 Stroker from Blueprint Engines. What I would like to know is what all do I need for this engine to run like it's supposed to and not cause damage to the motor or any other part of the vehicle. I have a 700R4 and 31.5" tires, don't know what the gear ratio is. I use this truck as a daily driver and driving on light trails in the mountains. I'm not looking to turn it into a powerhorse, just want to upgrade engines since I have to replace it anyways. Basically, I want to know the best intake manifold and carb setup, best stall converter, and anything else that you guys can think of that will have my engine running good, strong, problem free and giving it a good proper life.

Also, the install will be performed by Lighthouse Automotive in Colorado Springs, CO.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Here's the motor I'm buying - http://www.blueprintengines.com/index.php/gm-383-bp3832ct1

Also, here's a photo of my truck -

 

[wage92]

getting an engine already assembled like that there is much less risk than when its built by a shop or a friend or something. So on that front i would say you are good, and there is most likely a warranty?

The other questions have many answers and it depends firstly on how radical the engine is, the way you have described it i would say it like 350-400 hp, so with that, i would say get an aluminum intake for it, you want something that is made for low end torque since its in a truck, such as an edelbrock performer, there are a few different versions of it, but if you get one that has a range from idle-5500 that would be good (this also depends on what heads and cam are in the engine to get the most benefit but edelbrocks are affordable and work good). For a carb, i would say anywhere from 650-750 would be good. Could go bigger, but it probably wont be seeing high rpms so you dont need to. i have a 750 on my 406 and its great.

lastly, for a torque converter it would be nice to know your rear end ratio. for a daily driver, you dont wanna go crazy on a converter, honestly, your stock one in probably fine. But if you wanted a little extra power on takeoff you could step up to a 2000-2200 stall converter and i would think that would be fine. I think its good practice to install a tranny cooler when a higher stall converter is installed because they generate more heat and heat kills trannys.


Other than that, as long as everything is installed correctly, i see no reason why it wont have a long life. Just make sure theres always oil and coolant in it! Make sure timing is set right etc etc.

Something else to consider is your tranny as a whole, im no expert on 700s but from what i hear they are somewhat weak, and now you are putting a fresh engine in...just something to think about, if it were me i wouldnt replace it or anything, but i would keep it in the back of my head to keep me from doing stupid stuff.

 

[handloader90]

Thanks for the info. Anther reason for me asking about this is to make sure that the place I'm taking it to isn't trying to sell me/ install things that I don't need.

What do you think is a reasonable price for this engine and other necessary items to be installed?

 

[wage92]

this is the cheapest 383 i could find on summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3830ct/overview/make/chevrolet

and honestly, other than the torque converter(which if i was on a budget i would keep stock anyway) all the other stuff you are talking about can be replaced after the fact. so if i were you i would just get the engine and swap it in, get it running good and then down the road if you want more power you can change it up.

but as for your question, if its 3200 for the engine i bet the shop would tack another 1000-1500 on to swap it in and out...even though its stupid easy to do on these trucks.

 

[454Sub]

The trannys were updated in their later years with a new oil pump and some other things. In stock form they will not handle alot of HP without atleast a large cooler. They can be built to handle anything you throw at them if you have the money and time.

Best case would be to install a large cooler on the truck, and drive it in D around town, then select OD when your going to be cruising above 50ish mph for extended time.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

If you only want a normal semi light wheeler you probably don't need to stroke it. A 383 not stroked would be more than enough power and way more reliable/less fickle not to mention probably cheaper too. Just remember adding HP puts a strain on everything else IE: drive-train wise

 

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed for later.

 

[Carcinogen]

If you only want a normal semi light wheeler you probably don't need to stroke it. A 383 not stroked would be more than enough power and way more reliable/less fickle not to mention probably cheaper too. Just remember adding HP puts a strain on everything else IE: drive-train wise

Isn't a 383 a stroked and bored 350?

 

[handloader90]

Thanks ks to everyone that's replied and shared their knowledge with me. I'm ordering the 383 Stroker today and I'm having it installed by Lighthouse Automotive here in Colorado Springs. The engine has a 30 month, 60,000 mile unlimited warranty + I've heard nothing but good things about blueprint engines. Lighthouse Automotive has an automatic 30 month, 60,000 mile NAPA warranty on their labor. If you guys still have any suggestions on intake manifolds, carbs, transmission coolers, stall converters or anything else let me know. If you can, include specific, like mfg. model, pro's and con's etc. Thanks again.