So I have a CS-series making some noise, but charging well. Has anybody replaced just bearings and gotten good life from an alt afterwards? A reman is like $100, but the front and rear bearings seem to be available locally.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Replacing alternator bearings
- Thread starter Blue85
- Start date
you talking the babby alt on newer serp belt stuff ?
if so I have been told the brushes are harder in them for more durability . so be sure its the bearings .
if so there not bad . there is a few nice write ups on internet and I seen a show do it 1 time.
if the cs130 on newer engines look in to the icebearg kit upgrade for them .
if so I have been told the brushes are harder in them for more durability . so be sure its the bearings .
if so there not bad . there is a few nice write ups on internet and I seen a show do it 1 time.
if the cs130 on newer engines look in to the icebearg kit upgrade for them .
I've only been running the serpentine setup for 1.5 years, so I don't know how long these CS130s last. It was a used unit I got with a bunch of other serpentine stuff, so I don't know how old it was then. This is a late 90's Corvette model, but other than one mounting ear, it looks to be exactly like my 2nd alt, which is from a TPI Camaro. I guess they are both 105A.
If I spend much money, I'll probably get in on a lifetime warranty unit and make the lower slot fit the Camaro alt, so that they are both the same. I can't see putting money into upgrades when I already have dual alts. I was just thinking that the reman will probably be just like the one I already have, but with a clean case and new bearings.
If I spend much money, I'll probably get in on a lifetime warranty unit and make the lower slot fit the Camaro alt, so that they are both the same. I can't see putting money into upgrades when I already have dual alts. I was just thinking that the reman will probably be just like the one I already have, but with a clean case and new bearings.
Stethoscope confirms it is the alt. The noise isn't noticeable under all conditions yet, mostly just at idle when there is no wind/tire noise. When turning by hand there is just a little bit of resistance so it only spins like 1/2 revolution after I let go. The other alt feels smooth and will spin a few. It didn't always make this noise so I figure it is just starting to go. Belt is good and all other accessories feel smooth. Which leads us to the beginning of this thread...
Other than the bearings, I suppose it could be bad brushes or possible a foreign object/dirt. It does charge well, though. I guess I'll figure it out when I tear it apart.
Other than the bearings, I suppose it could be bad brushes or possible a foreign object/dirt. It does charge well, though. I guess I'll figure it out when I tear it apart.
Nowadays, its not usually cost effective to rebuild one. But, its not cost effective to put one tons under a Blazer either........
I don't think I have ever rebuilt one myself, but I have torn a few down to see what was wrong, and once reconnected one to get 110v three phase power out of it.
Plus I have taken some alts and starters into a local shop to have them rebuilt. A store bought rebuilt one would have been cheaper, but I know these guys, and it will be done better than the other.
I would say go for it, but be sure to check the brush length. Last one I tore apart off my old Ford, I was considering rebuilding it, but the brushes were worn down to the embedded wire, and I could not find new ones at that time.
Probably readily available by now.
I don't think I have ever rebuilt one myself, but I have torn a few down to see what was wrong, and once reconnected one to get 110v three phase power out of it.
Plus I have taken some alts and starters into a local shop to have them rebuilt. A store bought rebuilt one would have been cheaper, but I know these guys, and it will be done better than the other.
I would say go for it, but be sure to check the brush length. Last one I tore apart off my old Ford, I was considering rebuilding it, but the brushes were worn down to the embedded wire, and I could not find new ones at that time.
Probably readily available by now.
Well if I buy bearings, brushes, brush holders, and rectifier pack, that's getting close to the reman. So I'm basing this on bearings being the only need.
My other line of thought is that sooner or later I'm going to buy a lifetime warranty unit - and then I shouldn't have to buy one again. So why not go ahead and buy it now? On the other hand, I do have a history of changing things, so who knows if I could even collect.
As for 1-tons - that could become cost effective if you habitually break your 1/2-ton stuff. And my fuel injection conversion pays for itself in fuel savings. And the winch will pay for itself by avoiding off-road wrecker fees, right? If this isn't all perfectly logical to you, then you're just not a CK5'er.
My other line of thought is that sooner or later I'm going to buy a lifetime warranty unit - and then I shouldn't have to buy one again. So why not go ahead and buy it now? On the other hand, I do have a history of changing things, so who knows if I could even collect.
As for 1-tons - that could become cost effective if you habitually break your 1/2-ton stuff. And my fuel injection conversion pays for itself in fuel savings. And the winch will pay for itself by avoiding off-road wrecker fees, right? If this isn't all perfectly logical to you, then you're just not a CK5'er.
Remaned stuff is sometimes just cleaned up and one part fixed, it's not rebuilt!
And as far as liftime warrenty?
I don't want to be replacing parts for a liftime! My kid works at Oreillys and man do they do a lot of replacements of Liftime Crap! They are cheap to buy and have a liftime warrenty!!! Woo Hoo! It's a gamble and they make money hoping you loose recipt, sell car or by chance they sell you a good one.
I like my factory original parts like this and rebuild them. Way better then getting an alternator that has been remaned say a dozen times and all F'ed up...
And as far as liftime warrenty?
I don't want to be replacing parts for a liftime! My kid works at Oreillys and man do they do a lot of replacements of Liftime Crap! They are cheap to buy and have a liftime warrenty!!! Woo Hoo! It's a gamble and they make money hoping you loose recipt, sell car or by chance they sell you a good one.I like my factory original parts like this and rebuild them. Way better then getting an alternator that has been remaned say a dozen times and all F'ed up...
http://alternatorparts.com/7130_7140.htm
even basic kit gets you better parts . these little alts are cooking in heat for the 105 amp in stock form .
even basic kit gets you better parts . these little alts are cooking in heat for the 105 amp in stock form .
So the bearings in this alt are fine. So are the brushes. For some reason, the end of the shaft is worn right where it rides in the rear bearing. Maybe this IS a rebuilt unit that had a seized rear bearing at some point.
In an evening bout of redneckerry, I made a shim from a piece of steel strap and pressed the assembly back together. Turns smooth as silk now. We'll see how long it runs. Get a new alt? Where's the adventure?
In an evening bout of redneckerry, I made a shim from a piece of steel strap and pressed the assembly back together. Turns smooth as silk now. We'll see how long it runs. Get a new alt? Where's the adventure?
And there's your sign!
But it was probably never rebuilt! This is what re manufactured crap with life time warrenty is like!
But it was probably never rebuilt! This is what re manufactured crap with life time warrenty is like!
I got a reman and it was like $70.... 
Reman and Rebuilt are two differant things!
You can not rebuild for $70.
You can not rebuild for $70.
I got a reman and it was like $70....
He said a reman was $100. All I was referring too. Maybe they cost more now. It was a couple years back.
You can buy a new one with the same lifetime warranty.
wasted wages
1 ton status
see now...... I would have taken the MIG to that shaft....built it back up...
and then spent the next 4 hours grinding the welds halfway round again....
that's just me though......
and then spent the next 4 hours grinding the welds halfway round again....
that's just me though......
see now...... I would have taken the MIG to that shaft....built it back up...
and then spent the next 4 hours grinding the welds halfway round again....
that's just me though......
Its hard to tell from the pic, but it almost looks like it was turned down and then the wrong bearing was used.
I would have mic'd it, and if it would clean up, turn it down to the next bearing shaft size and used a different bearing.
Otherwise, I would have turned it down smooth and put a slight chamfer on the end.
Then made a sleeve slightly larger than the original diameter that was a light press fit.
Pressed it on, filled the end gap formed by the chamfer with weld, then cut it down to standard size and cleaned up the end weld with a cutoff tool in the lathe.
The reason for the sleeve instead of the MIG buildup, is to prevent heat from damaging stuff on the shaft.
I bet if you had cleaned the shaft and bearing hole up good with brake cleaner (without washing the lube out of course),some J-B Weld or Quicksteel would have bonded the shaft to the bearing race well enough to last the life of the bearing..
I considered all of those ideas. If I had a lathe, I probably would have welded it up real lightly and turned it back down. I really don't know where to find a suitable sleeve. Hopefully the staking and loctite will keep my little shim in there until something else fails. I did drive it about a mile yesterday and everything was fine.
