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Replacing glass fuses

mrk5

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Just found these the other day and I'm curious if any of you all have experience with them.

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https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBF..._1?keywords=cbf+breaker&qid=1574443214&sr=8-1

They will reset once power is removed. I've always thought Bussmann makes quality stuff, but I wondered if maybe there were other pitfalls with these. I'm not a huge fan of glass fuses because I seem to break them half the time when I remove them.
 
I have used those for years. I first found them in the late 70's Ferd LTL9000 semi. Not sure how far back they were used. I put several in a few circuits in my '72, HD them in an old '68.
 
I have used those for years. I first found them in the late 70's Ferd LTL9000 semi. Not sure how far back they were used. I put several in a few circuits in my '72, HD them in an old '68.
Good info.

One if those finds where I'm like "whoa super cool never seen these before" and then other people are like "oh yeah, been using those for years". Haha
 
Good info.

One if those finds where I'm like "whoa super cool never seen these before" and then other people are like "oh yeah, been using those for years". Haha
Yes, but I never thought about telling anyone before.
I will try and remember to look at how many I have installed and post up. (Picture too) They end up sticking straight out for the most part.
 
Something to be aware of when using a breaker type instead of a regular fuse, the breaker type will keep resetting. If something short, gets hot, etc, the breaker wil reset and reapply the power. And keep doing so. In the right application, not a big deal, but could potentially cause an issue.
 
IIRC those where the type of circuit breakers both my 1970 muscle cars used in the fuse panel area, instead of the spade type circuit breaker my square body came with from the factory in the fuse panel area now.

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I use breakers on almost everything non computer related now. My semi is full of them from the factory.
 
One of the light circuits would pop the fuse on occasion. I soldered a breaker on the back of a blown fuse and it's been there maybe 15 years now. Long enough I had forgotten about it until I read this.

For more sensitive equipment a fuse is better because they tend to blow faster. A breaker also tends to have more voltage drop than a fuse, if that's a factor in the situation.
 
I don't think I have anything sensitive, certainly no EFI stuff.
 
I used those back in the late 70's in some of my older GM's..
First saw them when a customer came in the parts store looking for a new one,I think it was for the A/C on an old Lincoln..

A few trucks had fuses that would pop once in a blue moon for no apparent reason,I replaced the fuse with one of those circuit breakers and never had any issues after that..

I'd not use one for anything electronic like a radio ,they will not "blow" fast enough to avoid serious damage--and as already noted,they do re-set themselves after they cool off and that might not be desirable if a wire has shorted to ground ..
 
My semi had the lights on the head tack shorted out when I picked it up. Fed from the running lights. All were on for 3 seconds, off for 5. Started cutting wires on the body until I found the shorted area. Would have been a pain to find the failed area replacing fuses every time. The correct size breaker will trip long before a wire will start melting.
 
I did think about the points made about the breakers resetting. For what it's worth, these Bussman breakers only reset after you've killed the power to them.
 
I forgot how few breakers that I have in this truck. But it doesn't have the complete electrical system that it may have eventually.
Anyway, the only problem with these breakers is how they partially block the labeling of the circuits.
You can make them stick straight out and then there shouldn't be an issue with clearing the next one.

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