Reset balljoint preload??

[Kenny78]

I have checked most of the usual wandering culprits. I am trying to minimize maintainence costs but would spend money if I can find the cause. I traded the draglink and tie rod from a parts truck onto my '85 and realigned tape measure and center box adjust draglink(4'' lift Rough country springs with shims removed and caster angle verified within stock, 35" tires and awaybar removed).

With tire in the air I get no movement and dry steering on the pavement doesnt show any worn components. Watching the draglink to steering shaft relation leads me to believe that its not slop in the box but I havent adjusted the preload on it either. XJ shaft to cure a worn rag joint and a recent rebuild on the steering column for un related issues.

I replaced my other trucks BJ's to get the flat tops off of it(didnt touch any other steering component) and it tracks down the road like a new sports car. Which leads me to my question;
Can I reset my balljoint preload(got the spanner) to 50 ft-lbs? Do I have to unseat the knuckle(meaning complete tear down) or can I just loosen top nut, smack it to jostle it from the sleeve and retorque? I know its probly the long procedure, but I can always hope, right? I just dont want to start only to tie up my sunday (already got plans)

TIA

 

[4X4HIGH]

Easy as removing upper ball joint nut and then setting preload. No need to "jostle" anything. The ball joint stud will spin within the ball joint housing so it doesn't need to be loose in the adjustment sleeve.

I would however remove the wheel/tire and the caliper to get as much "dead weight" off the spindle/knuckle and of course make sure the truck is not on the ground when you adjust it.

 

[Kenny78]

I hate to sound kiss *$$ish, but I always appreciate your lightning quick responses. Along with the rest of the members, love this site!!!!

One more variable could be my ghettoed quad shocks which I havent touched yet. I will adjust the preload and give the shocks a look-see while rotating tires tomorrow.

 

[Blue85]

I just did this last week to my PS ball joint after replacing the DS. It was just as easy as you describe. It didn't make my rig track any better, but at least I didn't spend much time on it...

 

[Kenny78]

My sleeves must be rusted pretty good. I kroiled and worked to loosen them until I was afraid of breaking my socket. I did however find my shocks need immediate attention. PS rear mount has been hilbillied and the bushings are mostly shot. I should have thought of this first.

 

[rufusbooth]

In a perfect world you would be able to adjust the preload without breaking the taper loose but the sleeve is actually a split nut in that the taper presses the sleeve apart and holds it tight to the c-knuckle threads. If the sleeve will not turn, knock the ball joint loose and then you should be able to adjust the sleeve. I would recommend removing the sleeve entirely and cleaning out the threads and then add some anti seize.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[Blue85]

Did you try an impact to get it moving? Also, pound the top stud a little (with the nut) to free up that interface. The "C" is loaded by the ball joint nuts and will open up a little when you free up the top joint, even with the bottom ball joint still tight.

 

[Kenny78]

I did try a hammer, but I was hesitant to try the impact. I would be upset if I ruined my $20something socket. The shocks will get me close enough to what I want. Need to get new shock bushings

 

[blazer74]

What He said, that's what I had to do. Also changing all the front spring and shackle bushing made a big diff on mine.