Also, something I am worried about. Someone is helping me financially with this until I get going myself financially. They are worried about putting funds into a potentially dead engine or vehicle. How would you guys deal with that issue? I want to pay them back regardless, but if there is any doubt about the engine surviving I want to put as little funds into it as possible for their sake. The only thing I can think to deal with this is to just get some really good batteries and minimal stuff to start it then get the oil analyzed to see if there are major issues with the engine. Does this make sense or no?
CK5
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Reviving an old diesel Blazer - need some moral and experience support!
- Thread starter ChocoTaco
- Start date
Thanks for the info on the budget repairs. Since someone is helping me with this till I get on my feet I want to do it as cheap as possible. Especially since the engine could fail potentially - and wasted money for them.
Here's a square facet type but it only goes to 6 psi.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Standa...Metal-for-Petrol-Diesel-4-6-PSI-/352131642120
That is a decent price for a Facet pump--it'll work good..
All you need is 4-7 psi,especially if your adding the electric pump in addition to the original mechanical fuel pump on the engine--my Suburban seems to run ok with only the electric pump alone too,though it may be "marginal" as far as pressure to get it to start quickly,but the ten feet of rubber fuel line hose most likely isn't helping either..
I plan to put copper tubing in place of the rubber hose..
All you need is 4-7 psi,especially if your adding the electric pump in addition to the original mechanical fuel pump on the engine--my Suburban seems to run ok with only the electric pump alone too,though it may be "marginal" as far as pressure to get it to start quickly,but the ten feet of rubber fuel line hose most likely isn't helping either..
I plan to put copper tubing in place of the rubber hose..
It will take spending some money before you'll be able to determine the long term worth. Glow plugs and a pair of good batteries at the very least. I don't see a reason for an oil analysis if this was a good running vehicle when parked. If this engine and vehicle were complete unknown's I'd be more concerned, but you parked it, you know how it was then. What you're dealing with now is time related, nothing worse. Engine's don't develop hard part damage from sitting, unless they sit so long they seize up.
If you want to pinch pennies until you've at least made it run, then a pair of batteries from a wrecking yard might be OK...as long as you understand you're still going to end up buying a pair of brand new matched batteries later.
If you want to pinch pennies until you've at least made it run, then a pair of batteries from a wrecking yard might be OK...as long as you understand you're still going to end up buying a pair of brand new matched batteries later.
Great points thanks, tRustyK5!
How much fuel do you guys think I should put in the tank before starting? I was thinking max would be best to dilute the old stuff... or is that overkill?
Not long before I quit driving it I had to replace a little rubber line from the tank to the metal lines. I am wondering if I should replace that to ensure there are no fuel leaks in the garage.
Not long before I quit driving it I had to replace a little rubber line from the tank to the metal lines. I am wondering if I should replace that to ensure there are no fuel leaks in the garage.
There is only suction at the main fuel feed line,so most likely if anything it would suck in air,not leak...I'd only mess with it after you get it to run,you dont want to get air in the fuel system..
I'd dump the oil and put in fresh oil too--we lost quite a few "known good" engines at the junkyard by starting them after sitting a long time ,due to the oil getting condensation in it,and sludge that came free after the long period of sitting--it blocked the oil pump screen,and the engines sounded great at first,but a few minutes later,they started rapping..
..when we took the oil pan off most of them,it looked like jelly instead of liquid oil,all milky and black..
It'll only cost about $15 for 7 quarts of oil at Walmart,I've been getting gallon jugs of 15W-40 there for under $10,and you could use "regular" oil for gas engines like 10W-30 instead of diesel rated ,it wont hurt it any to leave it in there just to get it running and let it run to loosen up any crud that developed from sitting..
I see 5 quart jugs of that kind of oil on sale at Walmart often for around $10..
The tires and batteries you can save money on by getting used ones,but I'd buy new oil,it is cheap insurance..
I'd dump the oil and put in fresh oil too--we lost quite a few "known good" engines at the junkyard by starting them after sitting a long time ,due to the oil getting condensation in it,and sludge that came free after the long period of sitting--it blocked the oil pump screen,and the engines sounded great at first,but a few minutes later,they started rapping..
..when we took the oil pan off most of them,it looked like jelly instead of liquid oil,all milky and black..It'll only cost about $15 for 7 quarts of oil at Walmart,I've been getting gallon jugs of 15W-40 there for under $10,and you could use "regular" oil for gas engines like 10W-30 instead of diesel rated ,it wont hurt it any to leave it in there just to get it running and let it run to loosen up any crud that developed from sitting..
I see 5 quart jugs of that kind of oil on sale at Walmart often for around $10..
The tires and batteries you can save money on by getting used ones,but I'd buy new oil,it is cheap insurance..
It's a good design, and what I run on 2 of my 3 trucks. I would head over to Rockauto and order the same pump from Delphi or AC Delco. Same price, you get a warranty, and the quality may be higher than a Chinese knockoff. Or they could be repackaged Chinese knockoffs. Kinda hard to tell, but why buy a known knockoff?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...urbocharged,1052514,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256
I want to thank everyone for the help. I just had some horrible news. One family member sent another family member money for me to fix my truck... and the other family member used it for their own purposes. I found this out just as I was about to go to Walmart and buy some new batteries.
This is incredibly embarrassing.. but I wanted to let people know who helped here because it's going to appear I just massively flaked out. Does anyone know what Narcissistic Personality Disorder is? This is a big part of why I am in this situation... This is like the last straw in a long line of betrayals... It's incredibly sick how parents can treat their own children.
This is incredibly embarrassing.. but I wanted to let people know who helped here because it's going to appear I just massively flaked out. Does anyone know what Narcissistic Personality Disorder is? This is a big part of why I am in this situation... This is like the last straw in a long line of betrayals... It's incredibly sick how parents can treat their own children.
Sorry to hear about the issues. I've owned a 6.2 powered K5 for a long time and here are a few of my comments...most have already been mentioned.
The engines are very basic but do require trouble-shooting different from a gas engine. Good battery power/cranking speed, a bled fuel system, and glow plugs are what are required to start these.
Batteries - keep in mind that Advance Auto Parts have 20-30% off online discount codes available if you order online and pick up at the store. Just ordered some stuff with a 30% discount code (just search the internet for these), and did a quick search and see they offer $70 batteries then minus 30%. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to also connect jumpers from a running vehicle to the K5 when cranking it for the first time. These engines will NOT start without fully charged batteries.
Fuel - while diesel may not go stale, it will grow algae which clogs up the fuel system. Buddy bought a CUCV K5 years ago and fixed it up. He ran a couple tanks of fresh fuel through it before it started having stalling and starting issues. Pulled the filter and it was plugged with algae, which most likely broke free from the side of the tank. He fought this for quite awhile even after replacing the tank, flushing the lines, and going through several filters. Do yourself a favor and drain the fuel system and start with fresh fuel. Look up how to bleed the system. If you have the box style canister fuel filter on the firewall replace it, and you can bleed the system there (small plastic valve on top, run tubing from the outlet to a jug to catch the fuel). Bleed it until fuel runs clear. I would probably recommend going ahead and cracking the injector lines at the block and turning the engine over there to bleed the system also.
Glow plugs - these engines will not start easily without glow plugs even if fairly warm out. Do a search online for the basic trouble-shooting of the glow plug system....really not much to it. I will say that I have used starting fluid several times but always disable the glow plugs......I believe the concern is spraying starting fluid in the engine and then keying on the glow plugs which makes it detonate. If the glow plugs are disabled this shouldn't be a problem, however I will say use for own judgement on using this method. .
The engines are very basic but do require trouble-shooting different from a gas engine. Good battery power/cranking speed, a bled fuel system, and glow plugs are what are required to start these.
Batteries - keep in mind that Advance Auto Parts have 20-30% off online discount codes available if you order online and pick up at the store. Just ordered some stuff with a 30% discount code (just search the internet for these), and did a quick search and see they offer $70 batteries then minus 30%. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to also connect jumpers from a running vehicle to the K5 when cranking it for the first time. These engines will NOT start without fully charged batteries.
Fuel - while diesel may not go stale, it will grow algae which clogs up the fuel system. Buddy bought a CUCV K5 years ago and fixed it up. He ran a couple tanks of fresh fuel through it before it started having stalling and starting issues. Pulled the filter and it was plugged with algae, which most likely broke free from the side of the tank. He fought this for quite awhile even after replacing the tank, flushing the lines, and going through several filters. Do yourself a favor and drain the fuel system and start with fresh fuel. Look up how to bleed the system. If you have the box style canister fuel filter on the firewall replace it, and you can bleed the system there (small plastic valve on top, run tubing from the outlet to a jug to catch the fuel). Bleed it until fuel runs clear. I would probably recommend going ahead and cracking the injector lines at the block and turning the engine over there to bleed the system also.
Glow plugs - these engines will not start easily without glow plugs even if fairly warm out. Do a search online for the basic trouble-shooting of the glow plug system....really not much to it. I will say that I have used starting fluid several times but always disable the glow plugs......I believe the concern is spraying starting fluid in the engine and then keying on the glow plugs which makes it detonate. If the glow plugs are disabled this shouldn't be a problem, however I will say use for own judgement on using this method. .
Thanks so much for the great info 6.2 Blazer. There is a chance things could still work out in the near term. This parent of mine said they just needed it temporarily. But they have been gaslighting me for so long I just can't trust them anymore. Hopefully things move forward. soon.
