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Ride: 10" vs 12" with 42's

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whyth20rydn

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I traded one of my FAL's for a K5 and now I want to run 42's and my CUCV axles.... I looked at Superlift for springs and found they only make rear springs out to 8". I figure, no worries since I will use the DIY kit and ORDs FUSH anyway. Is there any real difference in ride quality from 10" to 12"?
 
Figured as much, just checking. I dont think anything can be worse than these "rancho" springs. My 210lb ass has to jump on bumper to make them cycle.
 
you actin like 210 pieces is bulbis...:wink1:

you gunna clear thems fourdydeuces wit superlifts 10" springs no prollem.
and if they makin 8" rear springs and full 10" in front, then you aint gunna need blox which is werd. glad ya see you runnin 1tons, i gunna want pics dewd:waytogo:
 
i've got a similar setup, started out w/ superlift 12" in the front & 8" in the rear w/ ord kit. it rode pretty bad so i changed to fush kit in front w/ alcan 10" springs & longer shackles. out back i just switched to tuff country 8" spring w/ all greasable bushings along w/ some bilsteins. it rides pretty good now :D
 
This is true, get off my lazy ass and start snapping pics. Maybe ask the wife if I can borrow the photobucket account.

My plan is to run the 8" rears and use the DIY flip to get the rest. Just need to figure out the shackle length. The front will be their 12" springs. I figure if there isnt a difference, then just go big. 1 tons are the way to go, no point in spending lots of money early just to come up short.
 
Hmmmmm please tell me more. Main reason for me going this way is to clear tire.
 
i know your not going to get much flex out of a 12" spring on the front, but from what i was told the spring will bottom out on the frame before it flexes. maybe consider a 10" front spring with a 2" longer shackle. :whistle:
 
I have my agr box/pump/ram setup for the steering. Using 1.75"x .750" wall with weld in adapters for my GM TRE's. Steering wont be an issue. I can make my own brake lines with my AN stuff. And giving Jesse or Tom Woods business isnt a new thing for me. Woods built my pro street AL nova shaft.

This is basically just for mud and saluting the 80's. Flex means nothing if you aint got rocks. I was thinking of adding a 1" zero rate welded to my perches if I stuck to the 10" lift. Either way, I will be bolting the degree shims to the spring pack for front. Just dont know if I have to cut and turn inner C's for the super huge angle. Well maybe not super dont know, havent ever gone this route before.
 
i think i've got 8 degree shims on mine w/ the 12". i have ord crossover & west texas offroad redneck ram, it actually steers great, i drive it down the road @ 70mph all the time. for brake lines just get 2wd factory ones they are longer than the 4x4 for some reason.
 
Really, thats perfect. I will save sometime with the brakelines then. And I can actually get a set anywhere if I blow one.
 
That was like going back in time. I din't think anyone built mini monster trucks anymore. 10 to 12" of lift on a K5 is gonna make for some steep d-shaft angles.

By the way from what I have seen 12" of lift will easily clear a 44" tsl.
 
i actually have a longbed 3/4 ton & a ord doubler tcase my angles arent that bad. i have way more mud than rocks here. i actually built the truck for mud/river ridding it serves its purpose pretty well.
 
whyth20rydn said:
I have my agr box/pump/ram setup for the steering. Using 1.75"x .750" wall with weld in adapters for my GM TRE's. Steering wont be an issue. I can make my own brake lines with my AN stuff. And giving Jesse or Tom Woods business isnt a new thing for me. Woods built my pro street AL nova shaft.

This is basically just for mud and saluting the 80's. Flex means nothing if you aint got rocks. I was thinking of adding a 1" zero rate welded to my perches if I stuck to the 10" lift. Either way, I will be bolting the degree shims to the spring pack for front. Just dont know if I have to cut and turn inner C's for the super huge angle. Well maybe not super dont know, havent ever gone this route before.
Click to expand...


.750 wall is overkill and what size TRE do you plan running? you might get stuck with half ton stuff with that wall thickness b/c the bungs I used to build a guys draglink and tierod not to long ago would only take 3/4 ton TREs. His tubing was only 1 1/2" .250 wall DOM. Just something else to kinda factor in.
 
Free tube is FREE!! Thats why I am running it. It was extra left over from a excavation/demill when I was at work. Lots of neat scrap I got to take home. What I did for the original was use the grinder to take OD down at the ends. Reamed the ID for 1.25". Then weld in the adapter and use the belt sander to make it look uniform. Its worked for me so far. My buddy did me a favor and machined out wrench flats in it for me.
 
So question, why not do 52s up front (automatic 4" of lift) get 6" lift 52s with Kerts B-52 kit a one inch zero rate and a longer shackle (which is weak anyway) for the front.

That should ride better than a 10" spring plus it will move the axle around which will help when clearing big tires. Plus it will acutally flex a little and you won't have to wear a kidney belt when cruisin:D
 
I didnt really know about that 52" swap and its magic lift quality. I found a few threads so I will edu-macte myself. Flex really isnt what I was going for, but my kidneys/teeth thank you.
 
A suspension that actually moves and articulates some will work better in the mud, besides just making the ride much more comfortable. Some decent suspension travel will help keep the tires on the ground when blasting through holes, and most mudholes on the trail I have seen do not have smooth and even entrances and exits.
 
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