If your engine/trans mounts are shot, that could transmit some vibration through the body. If they were that bad though, I'd expect you'd have noticed it already.
CK5
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Ride/Feel Improvement
- Thread starter dhcomp
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- Mar 3, 2000
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new body mounts made a big difference on mine. I went with rubber body mounts but I have poly tranny and T-case mounts. Rubber on the motor.
Yeah I know bad ju ju, but its working.
My old body mounts were metal to metal but looked ok on the outside.
Yeah I know bad ju ju, but its working.
My old body mounts were metal to metal but looked ok on the outside.
Where'd you get your new rubber mounts?
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
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- 7,076
black dawg
1/2 ton status
I have been scared to replace the body mounts, because it seems like rubber parts these days are not nearly as soft as they used to be.
Eh, new rubber can't be any harsher than 260k mile original ones, that are 22 yrs old.
Biggest concern would be breaking bolts / captive nuts, but my truck has always been in CA, and is pretty rust free.
Biggest concern would be breaking bolts / captive nuts, but my truck has always been in CA, and is pretty rust free.
I took an '85 K5 frame off the body a few weeks back, thing has rust holes through the floor in multiple spots. Neither of the captured body bolts in the cab floor gave me a hassle.
What'd you pull them with? By hand, or via impact?
Always debating the best way to Not break stuff.
Last exhaust manifold bolts i pulled i tapped a box end wrench tight, then loose, then tight, then spun it out.
Took about a two foot long breaker bar and had at it. I've got an electric impact (harbor freight) it doesn't put out anywhere near the force the breaker bar does. I realize that doesn't mean anything, a GOOD impact gun can likely put out more force than I can with a two foot breaker bar. But that impact gun won't loosen my torqued lug nuts (75ft lbs) which I can easily do with an 18" breaker bar.
I actually cut the floor apart there to take a look at how they are built, and on the east coast at this age I could see them being a problem...out here? Those locations have enough steel in them that spinning that captive nut isn't likely to ever be a problem.
I read a little, people seem to think that the impact is good at breaking things free because of the quick impact shocking the nut on the bolt, or whatever. Probably can't hurt. But those bolts are so large unless they are half rusted (which does happen, the stock dished washers trap water) you'd have a hard time shearing them. I'd have to try a mans impact gun to see if I agree with the shock belief. It's either the shock, or the shear force.
You can also use heat and cold. Shrink the bolt, expand (enbiggen) the nut. They make a "canned" freeze spray that has worked for me on steel seized into aluminum that wouldn't come free with force. Oxy-acetylene on an exhaust manifold works 100% of the time to help remove exhaust studs by expanding the cast iron.
One of my rules anymore is to lube just about every nut and bolt I disassemble before reassembly. If there are exposed threads, clean them off, use a good wheel bearing lube (oil cooks off too fast), then remove the fastener. As a for instance, the rear axle u-bolts. The impact gun would create TONS of heat on the nut/bolts (as would the breaker bar, just slower), if I let them cool they would turn pretty easily. If I used oil, the nuts started, but seized quickly. Wheel bearing grease meant the difference between having to use the breaker bar again, or the impact gun. The impact gun is SOOOOO much faster and easier lol.
I actually cut the floor apart there to take a look at how they are built, and on the east coast at this age I could see them being a problem...out here? Those locations have enough steel in them that spinning that captive nut isn't likely to ever be a problem.
I read a little, people seem to think that the impact is good at breaking things free because of the quick impact shocking the nut on the bolt, or whatever. Probably can't hurt. But those bolts are so large unless they are half rusted (which does happen, the stock dished washers trap water) you'd have a hard time shearing them. I'd have to try a mans impact gun to see if I agree with the shock belief. It's either the shock, or the shear force.
You can also use heat and cold. Shrink the bolt, expand (enbiggen) the nut. They make a "canned" freeze spray that has worked for me on steel seized into aluminum that wouldn't come free with force. Oxy-acetylene on an exhaust manifold works 100% of the time to help remove exhaust studs by expanding the cast iron.
One of my rules anymore is to lube just about every nut and bolt I disassemble before reassembly. If there are exposed threads, clean them off, use a good wheel bearing lube (oil cooks off too fast), then remove the fastener. As a for instance, the rear axle u-bolts. The impact gun would create TONS of heat on the nut/bolts (as would the breaker bar, just slower), if I let them cool they would turn pretty easily. If I used oil, the nuts started, but seized quickly. Wheel bearing grease meant the difference between having to use the breaker bar again, or the impact gun. The impact gun is SOOOOO much faster and easier lol.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
I have poly body and spring mounts. 4 inch lift ßprings but rides real nice. I run my d rated 35 s at 25 front and 20 in the rear on my 3/4 ton blazer. Rides real smooth for a forty two year old. Still have stock engulfed trans mount bushings. Don't have any extra shake from that. I've been one off on my plug wires and the engine shook good. How much does your engine move if you rev it with the hood open? Mines tight and doesn't move. You could have a dead cylinder with bad compression and have it shake. My 327 did that before it blew up. I'm sure you'd know you have a engine problem by now. U joints good?
I didn't see a response - have you played with tire pressure? At 27psi (stiff for MPG pressure) I can feel or hear (not sure which) the rumble strips in the middle of the road a little. At 23psi they are pretty much gone. At 32psi the tires are crazy stiff. (this is my 37" OZ tires).
What size are your tires? The door sticker only applies to stock sized tires. All else being equal, you lower it as tire size goes up. What is the sidewall max pressure and how heavy are the front and rear of the rig?
I also noticed that they fixed nearly every single road around here the day I put on my ORD/Alcan front springs.
What size are your tires? The door sticker only applies to stock sized tires. All else being equal, you lower it as tire size goes up. What is the sidewall max pressure and how heavy are the front and rear of the rig?
I also noticed that they fixed nearly every single road around here the day I put on my ORD/Alcan front springs.
