Rig hauling question- tie downs

[jt512]

So I finally went a bought my own trailer and since I went that far I figured I would drop the coin on some fresh straps also. I was at my local trailer/ supply shop and noticed all the straps(nylon ratchet type) were rated for a work load of 3300lbs and a break strength of 10k, same with the axle loops they offered. Is this enough for hauling a full size rig ? Maybe it's because I'm used to load numbers associated with lifting and rigging, because 3300 just seems low for a work load to me I'm used to having each strap with a work load greater then my lift weight :ex- my small machine weighs just under 4k, I rig it with 3 straps each rated at 6200 straight lift.

Obviously I will not be using only one strap to tie down the rig, but, does that rating sound safe?

 

[supersize75k5]

I use Mac satraps with the loops already on them for easy/simple load and unloading.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/76/All


It's been a few years on them already but when I looked and read up on them they were the top dog and best refered. They also have awesome customer service. I do not treat anything I own nice it seems, he'll I've used these to pull cars around the yard when I'm too lazy to get a chain the length I need.

I use four, I cross the rears and and fronts are simply straight. They hold the trucks and buggys down with all my craziness and my trailer likes air time

Highly recommend them.

-Shawn

 

[streetrodchev]

The straps I use are rated 10,000 lbs. I don't remember if that is working load or breaking strength. I use 4 per vehicle. The end has a single wire hook that will hook in the frame holes on cars/trucks. I also have axle straps I can hook on the end of the strap.

I get my stuff trom here. They are at a big swapmeet I always go to and fix/repair broken straps too.
http://www.strapman.com/4pointTieDown.html

 

[jt512]

Thanks for the link

I like the combo style they have

I set up my d rings on the trailer for the same set up, straight pull on the front and crossed rears.

I guess if they have the Shawn seal of approval I can't go wrong

 

[jt512]

The straps I use are rated 10,000 lbs. I don't remember if that is working load or breaking strength. I use 4 per vehicle. The end has a single wire hook that will hook in the frame holes on cars/trucks. I also have axle straps I can hook on the end of the strap.

From searching around , it seems most 2" wide straps are "rated" for 10k, but it generally seems to be the break strength. Most likely I'm just being over cautious due to my background of having a strapped load up in the air possibly above myself, and others on a site.

 

[streetrodchev]

I added a link above. They have some quality stuff. It is a little ma and pa shop. They will make anything you need custom. The web site does not have all they carry. I also get my recovery straps from them.

 

[4xcrazy]

3300 lbs working load, times two for each end of the truck should be fine, I think the ones I had were about the same if not a touch more.

The main thing you need to do when hauling a vehicle or heavy load, BE AWARE, of EVERYTHING, brake much sooner, let off throttle much sooner, just be prepared for anything, don't tailgate. Don't be nervous when driving/pulling, just be a bit more caution when driving.

Also get a chain, (safety chain) doesn't need to be super long, just long enough to wrap around the front, or two chains to wrap around each axle as a back up device in case one or more of the straps fail. Chain doesn't have to be taught, just tight enough to catch the vehicle if a strap fails and prevent excessive movement until you get stopped.

 

[454Sub]

I only use 2 straps on mine, ratchet style. One through the front leaf springs, and one wrapped around the rear axle and to the very back slots on the trailer. Works fine, takes 5min to do.

Careful with chains, I ruined shocks with them before. But a safety chain isnt a bad idea, I should probably do the same, but I have never had a problem before doing it like I now do.

 

[82355]

I never do it the same way twice it seems. I use a combination of ratchet straps, chains and binders, and come alongs. I never do more than one at each end.

Martin

 

[jt512]

The main thing you need to do when hauling a vehicle or heavy load, BE AWARE, of EVERYTHING, brake much sooner, let off throttle much sooner, just be prepared for anything, don't tailgate. Don't be nervous when driving/pulling, just be a bit more caution when driving.

I'm not new to towing at all, I log about 10-20k miles a year with a trailer behind my truck, gross trailer weights of 7-12k lbs, and more trips through DC and Baltimore traffic then I care to remember. Plus if I'm hauling my 2 small machines, support equipment and some spare parts I'm pulling around $300-350k worth of equipment


I've just finally bought a trailer for personal use and I want a set of tie downs for this trailer specifically for towing my K30.

Safety chain is something I always do on loads, generally if a load can be safely secured with 2 straps, I use 4. A few extra minutes of my time are worth it to make sure anyone else around me on the road is safe from anything coming off my trailer.

 

[Csm Davis]

I have more miles hauling cars and trucks of all sizes than I can remember, have worked for a car hauler and have many miles in towtrucks. You can safely use straps and I have and do use them but I would recommend if you are hauling the same Truck all the time that you get a chain setup not straps, you can buy the hookup chains that the car haulers use and hook in to the factory holes in the frame and also look for the safety rubber clips for the hooks so if you do get slack the chain doesn't fall off, just a little time and money can payoff big when that idiot cuts you off at 70 mph with your rig out back.

 

[76zimmer]

I do like to tie side to side on front and back to keep the truck from shimmying across the bed of the trailer. With straps, I've seen them move a little, and if your as wide as the trailer, its good to keep it centered.
and Mac's are the cream of the crop.

 

[dremu]

...Maybe it's because I'm used to load numbers associated with lifting and rigging...

Short answer -- as everything else has been answered/beaten to death -- is yes, you're absolutely right.

I forget the wording, but vertical lift has a much higher safety factor or something or other than horizontal pulling. This is for the very reason you mention: there are people underneath it, and gravity is a sumbitch to fight =))

I think Billavista talks about it in his Recovery Bible if you dig into it.

-- A

 

[USSkoval]

I usually run a chain in the rear. From the rear trailer corner, around the rear axle housing, then over to the other trailer corner. Then I pull it tight with a couple heavy ratchet straps up front. Seems to work fine for me and things don't wiggle or come loose.

 

[Stomis]

I only use 2 straps on mine, ratchet style. One through the front leaf springs, and one wrapped around the rear axle and to the very back slots on the trailer. Works fine, takes 5min to do.

Careful with chains, I ruined shocks with them before. But a safety chain isnt a bad idea, I should probably do the same, but I have never had a problem before doing it like I now do.

Thats not really a good idea. At least one end of the vehicle should have the straps crossed or at least heavily angled away from each other pulling from two opposite sides to prevent the truck from walking side to side.

You can say "O well its always worked" but god forbid you're in an accident or ever on a terrible road and loose the truck/unbalance the trailer you'll be in for a world of hurt. I would consider myself extremely versed in tying vehicles down to a trailer. Hell when I worked at my former employers shop I was constantly transporting $100,000+ classics around and was the go to guy when it came down to "how the hell should we tie this down". I would never second guess how I tied something down. Then one day I tied a 66 vette, a make/model Id tied the exact same way 100 times, up on our single car trailer and started out to Long Island. Well the BQE was under severe construction prepping for paving. The only time Ive ever had a car jerking the straps so hard it stretched them out a good 2 inches and the car was rolling back and forth on stop starts. Scared the hell out of me.

 

[jt512]

Just a little update, I ordered a set a Macs, got them from Summit. 4 pack of the 8' twisted hook combo straps and they come with the nice little storage bag they were in stock and should be at my place tomorrow.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

I'd use 4 of the 3333lb working load or whatever. I think that's what mine are, 10k bust, 3333lb working. Something like that. You're well over the weight of your rig with 12k worth of straps. Plus, you're holding it down, not lifting. Not even getting close to the working load.

I never run straps through things, I only attach with the hooks or whatever it has. They shimmy/vibrate and tear. And I always try go go as 45 degree as I can, forwards/backwards, etc. And compress the suspension.

I know you said you're no stranger, but for others who are reading.

 

[thearborbarber]

The working load limit is 1/3 of the breaking strength of the weakest part of the tie down. That's usually the ratchet or slack adjustment assembly (load binder, stemaboat jack ect). 4 independent points of contact obviously are best. Say you use one strap in the front and one in the rear. If the strap in the front goes out you will loose tension on the one in the rear too.

 

[4xcrazy]

I have always secured vehicles to trailers with 5 straps, one at each corner, and one usually running through the front tow hooks pulling the front end suspension down pretty good. Won't allow for bouncy movement and helps control sway on the trailer.... then due to uneasy feelings, or safety thinking in case a strap fails, two safety chains, one in back, one in front with very little slack.

vehicle in park, emergency/parking brake securely applied.

If the straps are going to break, the chains will catch it, by then you should already be slowing down and pulling over to fix any problems.

I am NEVER in hurry to secure a vehicle to a trailer, always double checking my securement procedures, and after driving a short distance, I stop and check out all straps and chains once again and also during fuel stops or anytime the truck stops for any break.

Whenever I secure a vehicle to a trailer, it almost seems to become one with the trailer.

 

[jt512]

I am NEVER in hurry to secure a vehicle to a trailer, always double checking my securement procedures, and after driving a short distance, I stop and check out all straps and chains once again and also during fuel stops or anytime the truck stops for any break.

Whenever I secure a vehicle to a trailer, it almost seems to become one with the trailer.

Very good advice, I am of the same mindset. I never want to be responsible for injuring (or worse) an innocent person because of my actions or lack there of.