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Rim Size Future???

E

elks

1/2 ton status
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NW Colorado
Ok so I am trying to decide on a rim size for my project. Eventually I want to run a 40" tire, but for now I am going to have to be a little cheaper.

It is a rock Crawler... So what rim sizes are here to stay/popular and will have many options in the future? For example it seems to be getting harder to find others running 15" rims.

I was really looking at Trail Worthy Fab and running the hummer take offs, but when I go to a 40" tire is it as common as a 16 or 17 rim?
 
17" is a safe bet, in the 16.5 you are going to be left with very aggressive tires, pit bull and swamper
 
15, 16 and 16.5" all seem to have limited support

17 and 20" seem to be the trend for new tire designs. I'm focusing on 17" myself....20s just seem like too much "mall" and not enough "crawl"... :)


-G
 
Srsly, I would go with 17's/18's....

When I was looking for the new Rim/Tire combo, for the Tundra DD,
I was shocked at how many tire companies cater to the 17" & 18" crowd.

It really is the new "thing".
Keep in mind that 18" rim's, had less options than 17".... :D
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I don't understand why people run 16.5", by choice.

Unless you KNOW you're going with beadlocks, or get them for low $$$'s, I don't get it.

I needed a cheap tire; So, the hummer tires were them.
Double beadlocks and inserts were pretty cheap, too... Comparatively.

But, 16.5" is a very limiting rim size.

To each their own, I guess.... :dunno:
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The bigger the rim, the more money the tire will be. Like the beast, I'm looking for some tires/rims for my 08 Tundra. While looking at various sizes, I saw a tire (don't remember brand or what store) had a 35x12.5x15 next to a 315/75/16, and the price was over $50 difference. That was just those sizes. It's friggin' ridiculous they charge more money for less tire. 15s are still dirt cheap, for a crawler I'd just go with that size and some swampers. Interco has some 40" blems for little over $300 each.
 
With single beadlocks 17's still have issues blowing inner bead at really low pressures.

I run 16.5's, cheap, double beads and at 4lbs no bead issues.

I agree 16.5's don't have near the support they used to, but I'm not focused on bling or multiple tire options. H1's and PBR's suit me just fine.



.
 
This is over $500 worth of rim/tire.... Before tax. :doah:
014-16.jpg




90'K5 said:
I run 16.5's, cheap, double beads and at 4lbs no bead issues.
Click to expand...

I ran mine at 4psi, to see what would happen.
They just get real squishy... :D
 
Eventually ill be in 40" - 42" shoes, so I was figuring on finding 20" steel rims to mount my rings to. I don't like having excessive amount of side wall. 10 years ago you couldn't find a 20" rim to save your life. Now they are typically in stock everwhere, so I figure oin another ad years when its time to replace my new tire Ill just have that many more options
 
Well from what I hear the rule of thumb is to try to keep your rim at half the diameter of the tire. so 20" rims are the norm now..I personally like smaller rims like 16.5's or 17's

just for comparison new 275/55/20's cost (for a decent name brand) around $250 a tire as opposed if you had a 17" tire it would probably run closer to $150

but in your case id easy go with 26"+ rims and dont forget the spinners
 
Anything over 17" (and 17" is pushing it) just looks retarded.

Martin
 
90'K5 said:
With single beadlocks 17's still have issues blowing inner bead at really low pressures.
Click to expand...

Not true as a blanket statement like that. There are some cases where a certain tire bead thickness does not play well with a certain wheel bead seat area.

It seems to me that the lower cost tires are built with a bit less tolerance and therefore seem to have more issues with not matching up tot he wheels correctly.

Running the Goodyear MTR on trailready beadlocks I have yet to see a bead come off and I am not known to be easy on tires.

The reason that you are seeing less support for the smaller wheels is that the general trend is towards larger tires. In order to keep the masses safe tire manufacturers are wanting to build tires with less sidewall for more tire stability. A good example is the BFG 42" competition tire being built only on a 20" rim. Their feeling was that a 42" tire on a 17" rim was pushing it for what the racing was demanding from the tire and sidewall. The guys that have run them seemed to really like them, less sidewall squirm and they thought more stability at speed. Then again I have run 100mph on a 42 goodyear and could have drank coffee and talked on the cell phone they were so smooth.

17" rim is the new 16. 15" will be gone in the next five to ten years. 16.5" rims are just that bastard child that won't go away but will never amount to anything either.
 
Don't go 16.5. Unless they are free. Hence why i run them, but looking for new rims...


I'd go 17, 18, or 20. 20" steel / offroad style rims seem to be the way to go once you get into the 40" tire size.

But, for the time being, i'd go 17.
 
4 pounds of air pressure, is that even holding up the truck? :tongue1:

I usually run 12-15lbs when wheelin and those are half way flat when running..
 
4xcrazy said:
4 pounds of air pressure, is that even holding up the truck? :tongue1:

I usually run 12-15lbs when wheelin and those are half way flat when running..
Click to expand...

If I drop to 5psi it only drops the truck 1.5"-2" could go lower if I wasn't worried about blowing a bead...
 
Single digit pressures in bias ply tires isn't uncommon. Hell I ran my 39.5's at 2-3 psi just so they get a little more flexible. At 6 psi there was no sidewall bulge, but that was when they were brand new.
 
4xcrazy said:
4 pounds of air pressure, is that even holding up the truck? :tongue1:

I usually run 12-15lbs when wheelin and those are half way flat when running..
Click to expand...
I wheel between 15-20psi, in general. (see: Avatar pic.)
I drop it to 8psi, in the sand... :D

I aired down to 4psi, in the driveway, and it was ON the rim..... :haha:
 
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