at this point im not doing any hardcore weelin or anything just little trails and stuff and was wondering if i should just buy some weld in rim strengtheners or pay a little more for some weld in beadlocks
CK5
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rim strengtheners vs. beadlocks
- Thread starter jbowers
- Start date
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
That sounds like you have your decision. smart in my opinion
Nothing harcore, highschool budget...leave the rims alone and just don't air down so aggressively.
Rene
Rene
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
even better
Depends on terrain, type of tire, width of rim vs. width of tire, how you drive...
I never ran beadlocks, wheeled with bias 39.5" TSL's as low as 9 psi and never lost a bead. I tend towards conservative when I'm wheelin though.
Radials you should probably keep the pressure around 15-20 psi. Just air down enough that you start to see a bit of a bulge in the sidewall.
Rene
I never ran beadlocks, wheeled with bias 39.5" TSL's as low as 9 psi and never lost a bead. I tend towards conservative when I'm wheelin though.
Radials you should probably keep the pressure around 15-20 psi. Just air down enough that you start to see a bit of a bulge in the sidewall.
Rene
wayne
3/4 ton status
We are running 33's on 15x8" rims on a friends Jeep XJ and drop his down to 15 pounds with no issues and he is probably running harder trails then what you described.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Get some $6 tire spoons from Harbor Freight (they call them tire irons). HF also carries a good 12v compressor that goes on sale frequently for around $50. Get 5 gallon (10 gal. + would be better)tank and put fittings on it and a decent 12v compressor than throws ~1cfm or more.
With a hi-lift, 1 or 2 spoons, and a compressor/air tank you can fix most any tire issue on the trail anyways. I've substituted big crescents and breaker bars for spoons before, and if you're going to use ether to seat the beads, make sure you have spare valve stems (the heat melts the glue that holds them together sometimes).
You should be able to run ~15 without too many issues on mild to moderate trails. It's really dependent on your setup though so I would recommend testing things. My 12.50 goodyears on 10" rims can handle 12psi reliably, but my bias 10.50 LTBs on 8" rims won't do less than 15psi. The carcass, bead width, width of rim, how stiff the tread is, age of tire, weight of rig, etc....all have some effect.
Start around 15 and test on mild stuff. I'd carry a hi-lift for whatever you do because with some creativity you can fix damn near any problem with a hi-lift. I don't run beadlocks on either of my rigs, but I've been considering them mostly because I keep wedging boulders inside the lips of my rims (K5s don't fit well in canyons suited for samurais). Most of the de-beads I've dealt with are from running super low pressure in deep ruts. When you turn to climb out it loads the tire sideways a lot.
Emphasis on the hi-lift. If you don't have one, they're more useful than just about anything else you can own. I rely on mine heavily every time I mess with tires, and I do my own tires for all 3 of my rigs.
With a hi-lift, 1 or 2 spoons, and a compressor/air tank you can fix most any tire issue on the trail anyways. I've substituted big crescents and breaker bars for spoons before, and if you're going to use ether to seat the beads, make sure you have spare valve stems (the heat melts the glue that holds them together sometimes).
You should be able to run ~15 without too many issues on mild to moderate trails. It's really dependent on your setup though so I would recommend testing things. My 12.50 goodyears on 10" rims can handle 12psi reliably, but my bias 10.50 LTBs on 8" rims won't do less than 15psi. The carcass, bead width, width of rim, how stiff the tread is, age of tire, weight of rig, etc....all have some effect.
Start around 15 and test on mild stuff. I'd carry a hi-lift for whatever you do because with some creativity you can fix damn near any problem with a hi-lift. I don't run beadlocks on either of my rigs, but I've been considering them mostly because I keep wedging boulders inside the lips of my rims (K5s don't fit well in canyons suited for samurais). Most of the de-beads I've dealt with are from running super low pressure in deep ruts. When you turn to climb out it loads the tire sideways a lot.
Emphasis on the hi-lift. If you don't have one, they're more useful than just about anything else you can own. I rely on mine heavily every time I mess with tires, and I do my own tires for all 3 of my rigs.
Quoted for truth. I've horked my truck with mine maybe twice, but I've used it to fab my bumpers (bender), slid my garden shed a foot along the concrete slab, pulled down a cement fencepost, etc...
-- A
owenst7
1/2 ton status
Quoted for truth. I've horked my truck with mine maybe twice, but I've used it to fab my bumpers (bender), slid my garden shed a foot along the concrete slab, pulled down a cement fencepost, etc...
-- A
There's a reason they were borne of farmers' necessity. Hell we can thank farmers for a lot of the equipment we use for this sport.Hi-lifts make excellent come-alongs if you don't know this already too. I've even once used the I-beam with two ratchet straps to get 30 miles back to the trailer with a snapped semi-float axle shaft.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
i wouldnt run any less than 15 psi.ive never had a tire come off at that pressure.dont worry about hurting the rim unless you are jumping the truck off of rocks.
pauly383
Daddy383
x2 , 15 psi seems golden on a 33-35 with a heavy truck . Never popped a bead rockcrawling the fullsize full bodied 83 .
I can run single digits in the truggy its so light , and if I am wedging through a deep notch with tires on both walls , I can burp air and it sounds cool . Drawback to being so light .
I can run single digits in the truggy its so light , and if I am wedging through a deep notch with tires on both walls , I can burp air and it sounds cool . Drawback to being so light .
