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Ring & Pinion Setup Tools Needed

hi all, If I was installing just a locker and reusing the gears and kept note of how many shims are on each side of the carrier could I just slap the center section back in using just the master rebuild kit, a press for the bearings and a 3 jaw puller for the old bearings? from what I've read it should work but you guys are way more seasoned in this fine art.
 
Fastereddie said:
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had mine for years and you can do most pinion bearings with it also .

make sure it has 3 clamb shells the 3rd is for dana 70HD and dana 80 .

and i marked mine with a stamp for small S or large L on each half as i got tired of mix matching the halfs when lining them up . my yukon unit the nut welded on top was all warped so i ground it flat and its a 36mm socket if i recall . and lube the screw with copper anti-seize .

and his kind of tool for inner axle seals is slick as snot . just had to modify my unit to WORK unlike what crap they designed it for . https://ck5.com/forums/threads/tool-review-yukon-axle-seal-install-tool-sa-01.324024/

make or buy a bolt on YOKE holder tool for tourqing the pinion nuts .
 
nmxhustla said:
hi all, If I was installing just a locker and reusing the gears and kept note of how many shims are on each side of the carrier could I just slap the center section back in using just the master rebuild kit, a press for the bearings and a 3 jaw puller for the old bearings? from what I've read it should work but you guys are way more seasoned in this fine art.
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For a 14bff? Fair chance you could, if you are careful at pulling the old bearings
 
Bent77 said:
For a 14bff? Fair chance you could, if you are careful at pulling the old bearings
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@Bent77 no its in a 10 bolt, don't have the time or tools to even begin a 14bolt transplant. its purely a DD and weekend trail truck nothing major, figure I can keep the 10 bolt and throw in some good axles in the future if I need. but anyways, on a 10 bolt it would still be feasible you think?
 
Mostly need to move the shims on the carrier around. You may need to reset the pinion depth. Almost starting over

14FF seem to be one of the easier ones to set up. But I’ll let the others point you in the right direction
 
nmxhustla said:
hi all, If I was installing just a locker and reusing the gears and kept note of how many shims are on each side of the carrier could I just slap the center section back in using just the master rebuild kit, a press for the bearings and a 3 jaw puller for the old bearings? from what I've read it should work but you guys are way more seasoned in this fine art.
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There is a super slim chance you can reuse the old shim configuration. The differences in manufacturers of bearings and diff cases machining makes its highly unlikely.
But I'm saying there is a chance.
 
Bent77 said:
Mostly need to move the shims on the carrier around. You may need to reset the pinion depth. Almost starting over

14FF seem to be one of the easier ones to set up. But I’ll let the others point you in the right direction[/QUOTE
crap, was really hoping for a straight forward install, guess its time to do some studying!
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obijuank5 said:
There is a super slim chance you can reuse the old shim configuration. The differences in manufacturers of bearings and diff cases machining makes its highly unlikely.
But I'm saying there is a chance.
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okay, so basically just set it back up exactly the same way but with the locker and check the pattern on the ring gear to find out just how far off I may be?
 
Do yourself a favor. Add up part for the 10b

new carrier
Bearing set
Tools

then figure it for a 14SF and 14FF

Know what you are throwing money at before you rabbit hole yourself
 
The idea is to put the ring gear in the exact same place it came from relative to the pinion.
That may be a different shim set than before though. So yes, try it and see but plan on redoing it.
 
nmxhustla said:
hi all, If I was installing just a locker and reusing the gears and kept note of how many shims are on each side of the carrier could I just slap the center section back in using just the master rebuild kit, a press for the bearings and a 3 jaw puller for the old bearings? from what I've read it should work but you guys are way more seasoned in this fine art.
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I think the pinion depth should be good. measure your gear backlash before you start, get it close as possible with the new unit. as always, check the gear pattern. it will tell you the truth.
 
obijuank5 said:
The idea is to put the ring gear in the exact same place it came from relative to the pinion.
That may be a different shim set than before though. So yes, try it and see but plan on redoing it.
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sounds good, I've been studying as much info as I can find short of youtube videos it doesn't seem extremely hard, just a first timer so I gotta ask. I appreciate the info
 
Big Ray said:
I think the pinion depth should be good. measure your gear backlash before you start, get it close as possible with the new unit. as always, check the gear pattern. it will tell you the truth.
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okay, and yeah I will definitely check the gear pattern, im not driving the thing until its right how it should be, cant nuke a brand new locker. I found some examples of how the gear pattern should look after you paint it and rotate it so im planning on going off that. sorry to steal the direction of the thread !
 
You should check and note the back lash, run a pattern with yellow, on current set up. Mark the bearing cap, side and orientation. Pull the 3rd member, be sure to keep the shims on correct side and if more than 2 keep each side together. Put your new locker in with new ring gear bolts. Install 3rd member with original shims in same place as before. measure back lash if not the same as before you will need to adjust the shims. once you have the back lash, run a pattern, with white on different teeth than the yellow. See what you have.
 
Wes Harden said:
You should check and note the back lash, run a pattern with yellow, on current set up. Mark the bearing cap, side and orientation. Pull the 3rd member, be sure to keep the shims on correct side and if more than 2 keep each side together. Put your new locker in with new ring gear bolts. Install 3rd member with original shims in same place as before. measure back lash if not the same as before you will need to adjust the shims. once you have the back lash, run a pattern, with white on different teeth than the yellow. See what you have.
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I hadn't considered running a pattern check on the old set-up first, that's a really good idea, that will give me a much better way to see how close I am to where I need to be.
 
So, this might take the thread down another path, but it is related to OP topic.

I just got done setting up my 14 bolt FF with an ARB locker, and 5.38 gears. I was back and forth about installing the crush sleeve eliminator in the pinion housing. But, boy am I glad I did. when I got it all together, I realized that the pinion seal was wrong for my pinion yoke. Since i took the time to set up the crush sleeve eliminator, pulling the yoke off and replacing the seal was a breeze. no need to worry about screwing up pinion pre-load by overtightening.

that $50 add on was worth its weight in gold. Ill never do another 14 bolt without it. Link to crush sleeve eliminator:
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-S...hvlocphy=2840&hvtargid=pla-522238004769&psc=1

As for tools, the only thing I can see that hasn't been mentioned yet is a good set of brass punches/drifts. Using steel punches to push out the old bearing races, you'll run a high risk of damaging the housing. Don't ask me how I know...

105317848_10218837115853784_9030303278942005801_o.jpg
 
The thread derails are not derails for me. I don’t mind all the info being passed along its definitely needed as i haven’t done any gear swaps before.
 
There are a metric crap-ton of videos on YouTube about setting up a 14 bolt full float. its a great axle to "cut your teeth" on. there are no shims to worry about while setting up carrier pre-load. its all done by the adjustment sleeves on either side of the carrier.

if you have never set up gears before, I would recommend going down to the junkyard, and find one, and pull it apart, and put it back together again so you can get a feel for how carrier pre-load,pinion depth and carrier adjustment all work together to get the gear mesh right.

Most junkyards will be swimming in these axles, and will let a junker/high milage axle go for next to nothing. I picked up the axle pictured above for $100.
 
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