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roll cage

because the frame is designed to flex some. since the body and the frame are not the same thickness, they flex at different rates. if you had a cage that was attached to the body and the frame, something would have to give. could be the body, but most likely, the cage or the frame would crack.
 
Thats why they make these things called bushings. they allow for flex. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
 
And you'll still get stress risers on parts of a frame known for cracking already...

Maybe if I actually went 200 mph I'd think about it, but with 240 sq inches of floor mount plates the likelyhood of it punching through the floor is non existant.

Rene
 
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And you'll still get stress risers on parts of a frame known for cracking already...

Maybe if I actually went 200 mph I'd think about it, but with 240 sq inches of floor mount plates the likelyhood of it punching through the floor is non existant.

Rene

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Do you have matching bottom plates as well? I hope so...
 
Soory guys I gave yall some wrong info.
Micah's cage is a smitty built not the S&W, I thought he had the S&W but my info got screwed up in my head /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
hey, 85mudblazin, do u know were i can get a smittybilt like that. I tried summit and jegs and all i could find was one for a c-10. thanks
 
If you have a boxed frame, and a cage tied into the frame at many places, you are better off. If you disagree, then you need to think harder... The cage not allowing it to flex? Have you not noticed the fact that our frames flex TOO MUCH. They are weaker than S-10 frames. The cage would add to the integrity of the frame.
 
yes if the frame is boxed its better, but the stock frame will crack if a cage is tied into it
 
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yea here is a pic
Micah's rig(the white one)
Micah's cage

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This is actually the cage that our friend Jeremy use's. He added to the rear and x'd the top. He got his from Jeg's for $300 shipped to his door. It is actually for a pick-up truck not a K5
Pic of cage

I know several guys that have successfully ran their cage to the stock, un-boxed frame. They wheel extreamly hard and have yet to crack the cage or frame. Now granted these guys have hardly any of the original body in place and none of them ran the cage through the body to get to the frame. It could be just luck for them
 
From all the tech articles I have read over the years on building a cage, they say the body mounts are the best place to tie a cage to the frame.
 
I got my rear bar from 4wp then the front section is optional! Im going to get it as soon as I get some more $$ and take care of bigger axles
 
hmmm, I seem to have missed this post.

Here is the info on the Smitty cage..

SMT-BL478 Interior Tube Bar 4 Point Style 78-91 Blazer/Jimmy $153.69
SMT-BL84 Cage Kit Weld-In 73-91 Blazer/Jimmy Full Size $107.69

I bought mine from Summit. Jeremy (BallsofFire) bought his from Jeg's and it appears to be the one you first started asking questions about.

550-946901K
4-Point Roll Bar Kit $129.99

550-946903K
8-Point Roll Bar Kit $149.99

550-946904K
10-Point Roll Bar Kit $219.99

550-946905K
12-Point Roll Bar Kit $259.99

he didn't install it as they designed and it turned out pretty awesome for him. you can check out his cage pics in the gallery at AustinK5.net

the Jeg's kit was 1 5/8 .134 while the Smitty kit was 2 inch .120

the Smitty rear 4 points were powder coated and pretty much a straight bolt in, except welding the rear down bars to the hoop. The front section was raw and needed to be cut and notched.

The Jeg's kit was completely raw and needed most ends cut and notched.
 
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If you have a boxed frame, and a cage tied into the frame at many places, you are better off. If you disagree, then you need to think harder... The cage not allowing it to flex? Have you not noticed the fact that our frames flex TOO MUCH. They are weaker than S-10 frames. The cage would add to the integrity of the frame.

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Exactly, but it will add uneven and too much integrity to certain areas and nowhere near enough to others, creating stress risers.

I don't care if I catch flak for this.

A cage tied into the frame with fatigue the frame for one, due to stress risers. It's also going to fatigue the cage, potentially to the point of failure when you need it most.

NHRA doesn't require cages tied to frames, neither do I. I will never believe in it, and I feel that it's a stupid idea to do such a thing.

Fine if you'll trust your life on a flex fatigued cage, but I won't.

Purpose built race rig or tube buggy where all the frame flex has been engineered out, that's fine. Until then....I'll keep my soon to be body mounted cage, thanks.
 
popcorn.gif
 
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Hey micah, did u get that info off summit of jegs, thanks for all the info.

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I got The Smitty Built info from Summit... the Jeg's info from Jeg's.
 
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Some people don’t know how much they don’t know. Happy Birthday!

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Different application, different sport, and much more engineering involved than the majority have......me included.
 
A cage tied into the frame with fatigue the frame for one, due to stress risers. It's also going to fatigue the cage, potentially to the point of failure when you need it most.

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Tim please don't take this the wrong way I am just trying to better understand your reasoning behind this. If the roll cage is not tied to any thing than what good is it? Don't you need the cage tied to the frame for support? If it is tied to the body won't it basicaly push through the body when rolled thus making your roll cage just for looks and not practicality? If it's not tied to the frame what would you tie it into to give it support. As I stated above I am not trying to give you flak for this but am trying to get a better understanding of how I should build my cage?
 
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