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Rough Country spring idea?

ourk5

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michigan
Just installed a RC 4" lift kit (springs in front, blocks in back) and have what sounds to be the typical sag in the rear. I was wondering if anyone has ever pulled a few leafs from front springs and added them to the rear spring to level it out?
 
I'd have just gotten rear springs and have been done with it. The fronts will settle over time though. It's just the rears have been used and are old and already settled.

Or shackle flip would have been a good idea in the back.


The last option I would give would be the ex inch or zero rates from either www.diy4x.com or www.Offroaddesign.com .

I wouldn't do what your saying as I think the ass end would eventually sit higher than the front as it all settles and you will keep fighting it.


Also where abouts in MI are you located? You go to the dunes much??:D
 
I added two springs to the rear from a different pack, but I also took one leaf out of the front pack later to help soften up the harshness. It did help.
 
I don't think that's a good idea because the front are four inch lift springs whereas the back are stock springs... some other guys on here might correct me if I'm wrong, but I think a better option like Dueling said is to go with a zero rate.
 
I wouldn't and didn't take the spring from the lift pack up front and put it in the rear pack, I bought a set of separate used springs from another member, disassembled them and took two leaves from each side of those packs and installed them to the rear set on my Burb.

This did two things, it lifted the rear back up to level and it also firmed up the suspension back there from being overly soggy due to the old stock ones high mileage.

The front I simply removed one of the lower spring leaves to aide in softening up the harsh bump they had when hitting driveway entrances and speed bump type situations. It also lowered the front just a tad, maybe half an inch or so.
 
Zero rate in back won't work, as he is already running blocks.

Overall, not really recommended to do what you are suggesting.

I would toss the blocks, and add a shackle flip for the rear lift. From there, if you need another inch, a zero rate will work.
 
Rear spring would have been great, but not in the budget and i do have another set of rear spring that i can pull a leaf or 2 out of. From Mt pleasant and do try to make it to the dunes a few times a year.
 
4xcrazy do you have Rough Country springs also? I also installed a 1" body lift so i have plenty of clearance for my 33's anyways, i just wanna be able to see over my hood! lol
 
I don't see why you can't just pull a leaf or two out of the front until it sits level. 5" on 33's is a bit much anyway and the ride will only improve.
 
I only pulled one leaf out of my pack, I believe it was the second one from the bottom. That one alone made the front end come down about a half an inch or so and it also flattened out the pack a touch too. They're not level, but they are definitely not as arched as they were from new.

Add two leaves to the rear packs, firms up a squishy soggy ride out back, remove the one in the front, softens it up a tad, not so harsh and the truck pretty well sits level, maybe just a touch lower in the front now, but you can hardly see it.

Yes, I bought Rough Country front leaves and rear blocks, with their extended brake line kit and raised steering all at once. Still running the blocks in the rear, no problems, it's not a race car so I don't worry too much about axle wrap, plus with the added leaves, it's firmed up more anyways. Never any problems with the blocks, been off road a lot and have towed quite a bit with it as well.

I would not pull any more than one leaf out of the front either.
 
Just an update on what worked for my set-up.

1st On front spring pulled the bottom leaf(1/2" drop)and put 1-1/2 lift/overload spring in the back. Almost seemed to ride worse 2

2nd attempt removed another leaf from front spring pack(bottom 2 removed). Removed leveling kit from rear and from another set of used spring found a leaf that was between the size of the bottom spring and 2nd spring put that in a seemed to do the trick.

Driveshaft angles look good,rides great for a lifted truck and now I can see over the hood!

Thanks for everybody's input and advise!
 
If you measure from the body line in back to the ground and do the same in the rear youll be surprised how level it is. The wheel wells are at diffrent heights on these trucks i have the same kit in mine and i like the ride. I agree it does look funny but in actuality the body is level even stock they look uneven its not cause of worn out leaved. But im gonna do the zero rate kit in back just for asthetics its kinda an optical illusion. Try measuring like that or just look at the body line i bet youll be surprised.
 
Since the rear wheel well is cut 2" lower than the front, I like to set the rear 1" high (per the bodyline) to "split the difference" for a good stance. Now when you remove the top or load the rig everything changes, so consider how you'll be running most of the time.
 
I have the stance that I was looking for now, but now you guys have me curious on how close it is with the tape measure. Will do some measuring tonight and post what I have, and maybe get pictures of before and after. If i can figure out how
 
From floor to center of wheel well front measures 41-3/4" and rear measured 43-5/8. This is with 33's under it
 

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