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Running B100

B

buff_dog70

1/2 ton status
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May 2, 2007
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Location
Ridgecrest, CA
I have been running 100% bio-diesel in my 82 Jimmy since I got it. Has anybody else got experience running B100 iin their 6.2? My seems a little hard to start after it has sat overnight or longer. Was that way when I bought it and they were running #2. I have changed the oil & filter, both fuel filters, and the air filter. Been running mostly as a stop & go driver around town and short trips. Not sure how many miles the speedo and odometer is broken. Running Lucas oil in the fuel. Not sure if I'm going to mess up the engine.

I make my own for about $1.25 to $1.50 a gallon. Cannot seem to find a cheap lye bulk lye source.
 
Start checking glow plugs, make sure you have good batteries and good battery cables with clean connections. Bad glow plugs or a slow turning starter will make cold starts a bigger problem.
 
How labor intensive is it to make Bio-Diesel? Have you had any problems with O-rings, hoses, or gaskets being deteriorated by bio-diesel?

Noticeable performance difference? Bio-Diesel won't make the same power as regular diesel.

"Couple of days" could be anything from a very slight air leak to your fuel gelling.

Tried any other additives other than Lucas?

If you are filtering the oil you use properly I don't think you'll "mess-up" your engine.
 
i thought bio made the same or even more power, iirc it was a diesel power issue about 6-9 months ago (mabey even a year now) they ran that powerjoke on the dino w/#2, and w/b100 and even saw the same HP #'s across the board, and made more TQ on Bio, i'll try to find the issue
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Actually bio-diesel should make more power than dino-diesel. Biodiesel has more "combustion potential" than dino-diesel. It's the opposite of cornwhiskey vs regular dino-petrol.
Click to expand...
Biodiesel has less energy contained within it than diesel fuel by itself.

Energy content ( expressed as BTU's ) for the various diesel blends:
High sulfur diesel contains 140,000 BTU/gal,

15 ppm ULSD contains 132,000 BTU/gal,

According to the department of energy, characteristics of biodiesel are higher viscosity, higher specific gravity , and lower heat value (BTU), as compared to neat diesel.

B20 ( soy methyl ester ) contains 128,000 btu per gallon.

both the department of energy and the national biodiesel board say that b100 contains 10% less energy content than neat diesel. And it gels at 40 degrees F.

Interestingly, the ASTM biodiesel quality specs only apply to B20 or lower blends.. going higher than B20 means you are on your own as far as fuel quality.

One thing we find a lot, even with B20 blends made bya commercial supplier, , is more water content than the ASTM maximum allowable amount..this will definitely affect power output as well.
 
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OK great info out there on this. I am really interested in running a WVO in my truck. this could be super easy to do here and sounds like they are getting really good results.
 
Actually I've been hearing the opposite on the WVO. Read some of the reviews of it over on the Steel Soldiers site I mentioned earlier. Not as refined so it's got some stuff in it that isn't engine friendly.
 
i'll stick with pure petro diesel in my trucks...I don't trust bio fuels yet, and seeing some of the brutal engine damage, build-up, sludge etc that WVO causes doesn't make me want to run that either.

Rene
 
I'll run biodiesel. There are enough people doing it that show it's safe IF you properly prepare your truck. That's the problem, sorta like Ethanol, people expect it to just replace regular diesel in their vehicle and gee whiz...they have problems...
 
Well I have been thinking about this for a long while(since I got the truck) I was going to get a vagabond WVO kit for 1600. 2 years ago. I looked a couple months ago and it jumped to like 2500+ for the kit. must be getting popular. On our trucks you run a second heated tank and other than starting and shutting the truck on and off with diesel you run the thing on heated WVO. Before you shut it down you run it for a few minutes with the diesel to flush the IP so you dont get any build up. I am going to check out tanks and see what I can come up with building my own kit.
 
Yep read it and all the following commments. There is a right way and a wrong way to do it, obviously there is a process that needs to be followed to get the desired results. Maybe not today but this is deffinetly something I would like to try. Also look at the vehicles they are running this stuff in TDI's. WVO should be much better suited for our antique beasts dont you think?
 
ssped said:
Yep read it and all the following commments. There is a right way and a wrong way to do it, obviously there is a process that needs to be followed to get the desired results. Maybe not today but this is deffinetly something I would like to try. Also look at the vehicles they are running this stuff in TDI's. WVO should be much better suited for our antique beasts dont you think?
Click to expand...

I posted these links last week in a different thread - don't know if you saw them:

Here's what the department of energy says about WVO. ( they give it a serious thumbs down) You'll need to paste this into your browser, as it's a PDF.

www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/clean_cities_SVOpaper.pdf

remember, this paper was done by the DOE's "clean cities" program, which pushes biofuels pretty hard, so they're not just making stuff up.


You can also go here, to the engine manufacturers association website:

http://www.enginemanufacturers.org/info/division.asp?id=65

and scroll down a bit and click on the "raw vegetable oil technical statement"..they say much the same thing as the DOE paper, and they have some interesting takes on biodiesel as well.
 
I like thinking outside the box, but there are times when I sincerely value opinions and observations from those that have a close, first person, working knowledge of something I'm considering. In those cases I pay close attention...

WVO falls into that category. Tom's busniess revolves around fuel additives, fuel quality, and alternative fuels as they relate to our specific vehicles (and other newer stuff). Not only is he very knowledgable about our stuff and these fuel issues, but he keeps up with all the latest information from some very reliable and well informed sources. Thank God he does, because I don't have the patience to do all this research myself. :p:

I choose to stick with petro diesel and the proper fuel additives.

Rene
 
I am just keeping an open mind for the future. I am not even close to making a change yet but it is something I definetly want to try. If I blow a motor I will just swap in another.
 
ssped said:
I am just keeping an open mind for the future. I am not even close to making a change yet but it is something I definetly want to try. If I blow a motor I will just swap in another.
Click to expand...

That is my thinking, I can get these engines for $100-300 a piece, if I can save a bundle on my fuel, it's worth it.
I wouldn't do this to a new diesel, but these 6.2's are the perfect candidates, cheap abundant and low tech enough to work.
 
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