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Running Hot While in 4WD

G

gumneck

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Feb 6, 2003
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Location
VA
Hey everyone.

I've noticed the last couple of times on the beach with the blazer(1991 350,33" AT's) that after about 20 minutes of driving in the sand that the temp gage runs up to about 240-250 degrees not running a/c. My s-10 will run up a little bit but not that much. So far, the blazer's gage will cool down after back on the road and a few miles highway speed.

The gage normally registers about 195 no a/c going and on the highway.

Any thoughts/suggestions?
 
The engine is working pretty hard to keep you moving in sugar sand. Is your fan clutch engaging properly? (The fan will get MUCH louder when it engages). You really need the extra airflow at low speeds and high loads.

Is the radiator original? A 14-year-old radiator may look fine on the outside, but still be half clogged internally. $150 or so for a new one can make an incredible difference.
 
fan clutch and radiator are both suspect if both of those check out fine do you have a fan shroud? If not your fan will not pull enough air through the radiator.


In another thred you had a question about one of your front hubs being hot and the answer to that question is check the wheel bearings... they could be damaged or overtightened
 
Harry H3,

Tks. I've never heard the fan clutch engage or noticed it to or not to engage. I would assume if its faulty that it is a throwaway part and not fixable.

Radiator looks original but may be clogged like you say. I plan to have the radiator in my s-10 boiled out b/c I can see plenty of build up in it. Should maybe take them both out and have it done at the same time.
 
RJ

Thks. Fan shroud is there. The tranny cooler is there but previous owner disconnected for some unknown reason. I have to very soon figure out where all the lines go to hook it back up. Not too long ago I pulled my dad's 16 ft trailer 120 miles with my 2400 lb Ford 8n tractor on it. The transmission started shifted real rough after about 50 miles of highway driving. Its shifting smooth again but I'm afraid to pull a load until I get that fixed.

Tks on the hubs too. I bought the 4wd spindle nut socket when I changed out the hubs b/c one wheel lock nut seemed loose. Are the bearings right behind that spindle nut? If so I'm going to repack them before anymore trips.
 
Even under conditions of the truck just pulling itself, you need a cooler on that! Spelling death for it as we speak! Are they not hooked up to the radiator at all?? If so, FIX THAT QUICK! Be careful though, if the trans cooler in the radiator broke and sent coolant into the trans, that could be a reason why he disconnected it.
Replace radiator and fan clutch and plumb in your cooler.
 
89GMCSuburban said:
Even under conditions of the truck just pulling itself, you need a cooler on that! Spelling death for it as we speak! Are they not hooked up to the radiator at all?? If so, FIX THAT QUICK! Be careful though, if the trans cooler in the radiator broke and sent coolant into the trans, that could be a reason why he disconnected it.
Replace radiator and fan clutch and plumb in your cooler.
Click to expand...

I'll try and post a pic when I get off work today. I cant describe where the lines are running from/to out of memory right now. But thnks for your help. I guess the only way I'm going to be able to see if the cooler is functional is to hook it up.

Are you thinking I should replace radiator with new rather than having it boiled out? Also, would new radiator eliminate the possiblity of coolant leaking into transmission? If I went the route of new radiator, I should prob go new trans cooler too, right?
 
When the fan clutch engages the fan starts to sound like a freakin' 747 preparing for takeoff. ;) You WILL know when it kicks in. If you aren't hearing lots of roaring/wind noise from under the hood when the engine warms up then the clutch is toast. And yes, it is a throwaway part. Expect to spend about $75 for a new one. :(

BTW, how much does the shop charge to rod and boil your old radiator? Around here it runs around $100, while a brand new radiator is $140 (for the S-10) and $150 for the K5. :eek1: I just pony up for a new radiator. :cool1:

You NEED to plumb in a major league trans cooler before your 700R4 pukes from the heat. $50 and an hour to install it vs. $1,500 for a trans rebuild. :rolleyes:
 
i say redo your entire egine cooling department with NEW parts. i replaced my rad, thermostat, coolant, fan clutch with all new parts and my engine doesnt go over 165*...i got a 160* thermostat. my fan clutch doesnt even engage anymore unless i am on the gas alot and not going very fast, like in mud...my engine ran at about 210* before the redo...it will help out alot!
 
The advice above is all good, I just wanted to throw in a little tidbit of information. Many of these trucks have a relay that engages when you are in 4WD to prevent torque converter lockup. It's only relevant if you're getting up to 3rd gear, but no lockup = more heat.

However, it sounds like your problem is more due to low speed. Does it also get hot when the vehicle is sitting still idling?
 
Yes, sometimes on a hot day in long outside banking line for instance, the temp will creep up.

Thks all for the advice, its well taken. :bow:

I appreciate it.
 
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