CK5
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Running one shaft on 14bolt ff
- Thread starter 5trucks
- Start date
Dabba
1/2 ton status
why do you wanna?
Pulling one shaft out of a rear lincoln-locked axle is NOT like an open diff. I've broken a front shaft on my locked front axle and drove out in 3wd and it had some serious torque steer. I've also seen a couple guys on the trail break a rear shaft on a locked rear axle and drive out with one shaft engaged and it also acted funny, once on the pavement they limped it home.
Another guy just recently built a YJ with spooled rear axle and is trying this method. On our last trip a few months ago he was stating how bad the roads were (icy) because he felt the rear end get squirrelly several times...everybody else looked at him funny for awhile and then we all told him nobody else had noticed any issues, just that the roads were wet. We had driven the same roads and some were trailering and some were street driving rigs with Boggers and TSL's with lockers, so it appears that his one shaft rear axle was probably the cause.
For lubing the rear bearings, if you are halfway careful I don't think it would be a problem. Not like 90W runs out like water. The guy above just jacked up the one side and therefore only lost a few drops of lube (you most likely would need to jack the tire off the ground anyways because otherwise it would be difficult getting both the splines and the bolt holes lined up).
Another guy just recently built a YJ with spooled rear axle and is trying this method. On our last trip a few months ago he was stating how bad the roads were (icy) because he felt the rear end get squirrelly several times...everybody else looked at him funny for awhile and then we all told him nobody else had noticed any issues, just that the roads were wet. We had driven the same roads and some were trailering and some were street driving rigs with Boggers and TSL's with lockers, so it appears that his one shaft rear axle was probably the cause.
For lubing the rear bearings, if you are halfway careful I don't think it would be a problem. Not like 90W runs out like water. The guy above just jacked up the one side and therefore only lost a few drops of lube (you most likely would need to jack the tire off the ground anyways because otherwise it would be difficult getting both the splines and the bolt holes lined up).
m-4x4-chevy
Registered Member
With or without the shaft, the gear oil runs down the inside of the axle tube and drips out of the end of the spindle tube when the axle is on an angle or going around a turn. After removing a shaft, the oil in the wheel hub will drain out. After replacing the shaft (OR ATTACHING A CAP) it's best to tilt the axle down on that side to get the oil in the wheel hub before driving. Top off the dif housing with gear oil and your off.
The cap is a good idea for trail fixes and limping home.
The cap is a good idea for trail fixes and limping home.
You don't have to cut the end off a perfectly good axle shaft to make a cap either. Sheetmetal with holes drilled for the bolt patern would work just as well. If you have some bad axle shafts though.....
So I don't spend much time on CK5 anymore, but lately I got to read about stacking frames, one-links, and now running in one-wheel drive.Not everything should be done just because it can be done.
Is this what the greatest collection of Chevy K-truck wheeling/building knowledge has come down to?
Maybe instead of 'Built-not-Bought', the new motto for CK5 should be:
"As cheap as possible, as safe as affordable"(where's the dang flipoff smilie when you need it...
I have the same feelings. The sad thing about it is the guy I referenced above with the YJ isn't doing it because he's cheap......he spent $15k on custom Dynatrac axles but got a spool instead of something else.
