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Rust issues

The biggest issue we face in the northeast is the salt, especially that liquid crap they spray on the roads before the storms hit. It just gets up into every crack and crevice. The tailpan, crossmembers, and inside of the rockers get a constant spray of stone chips, dirt, salt, mud, etc.,etc... Guess where most people never wash, and most car washes don't touch? The undercarriage, so all those open crossmembers and tailpans get chipped and coated with rust promoting debris and after a few years of neglect, they start to rust. I hate undercoating and bedlining underneath a vehicle unless it's brand new. Undercoat an older vehicle and you will probably seal any damage from view until it's too late to see it. On my '91, I sand any surface rust down to bare metal, Zinc primer it, and then paint it. Then if it comes back I can see it. It's worked really well. My friend who restores cars and replaced my rockers and taipan on mine uses the zinc based stuff and it's held up well even a spot that was never painted on the quarter panel over 2 years ago hasn't rusted yet. However, this will be my blazers final winter as my winter beater, I like it too much to see it ruined, and I'm in it too much financially to destroy it. That's the only way to really save it... The funny thing is, I bought this thing 6 years ago for $1300 as my winter beater and fell in love with it. I was at the same place you are now 3 years ago. It was either junk it because it wouldn't pass inspection, or fix it... So I guess it comes down to if you really want this blazer or not, because the rust issue isn't going to get better, and it's amazing how quickly they go if you wait to do anything about it.
 
it's amazing the varying degrees of "quality" that can be put into a repair and prevention.... 90% of the public doesn't know the correct way to do bodywork, and that includes many self-proclaimed bodyman...
 
it's amazing the varying degrees of "quality" that can be put into a repair and prevention.... 90% of the public doesn't know the correct way to do bodywork, and that includes many self-proclaimed bodyman...

I would have to say I agree with you, because I think the only real way to do it properly and in a way that will last is to do a complete tear down, strip all the paint to bare metal and start from scratch. But for most guys on here, thats just too time consuming or cost prohibitive for them to even consider unfortunately... Even what I am doing to mine now is only an attempt to slow the inevitable, my factory paint is failing, and until we can take the time to strip everything to bare metal, fix the remaining damage and start from scratch, it's a losing battle.
 
The only vehicles I have seen still in "perfect" condition several years after a restoration,is a few antique cars guys had stripped completely to a shell,and had them DIPPED in an acid bath,which removes ALL the rust,paint,etc...but they must be primed immediately with zinc chromate primer,and if any spots happen to be missed,rust will quickly re-appear...bear in mind these are "show" cars that rarely get driven too,and never in bad weather...There are places that specialize in dipping complete bodies around here,one in Worcester MA does a lot of them..if you have 10 grand for a complete frame off restoration (at leat),thats the way to go...but for the average joes out there like us,our ametuer restorations usually only last about 5 years before rust starts popping thru again...in the long run its way cheaper to fly to AZ or some other rust free zone and buy a decent truck ,and drive it home..
 
Rust update

I took some pics of what I could get to, (it was too cold to unload the entire truck). In some places it is worst than I thought, in others it doesn't (yet). The under cab on the drivers side is flaking apart, the cab floor behind the drivers seat has pin holes that I can see through. The rest of the pics are straight forward. It seems I have a lot of work to do this spring.

tailgate rot.jpg

drivers rear floor.jpg

passager rear floor.jpg

rust underbody.jpg

drivers cab underbody.jpg
 
where you need to check is the bottom back corners of the front floor.. where it goes it goes up the step, and up the B-pillar... that'll be the other bad area usually..

right there your looking at a tailpan and rear floor section.. tho a fair amount of work, not overly hard, as the parts are available.. whereas the B-pillar stuff, your making patches...
 
That looks almost exactly like my truck... Gonna be doing the same thing over the summer.
 
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