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Rust repair advice (long)

Y

ymatt

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UK, long to emigrate to the USA.
I'm going to restore my blazer properly when I move to the U.S., but for now I need to patch up the rust damage to get it on the road. Basically, I'd like some advice on what I should do and what repair panels to get. I cannot order large items such as whole new floors etc. until I make the move.

Here are some pics of the damage:

The worst area is probably in front of the rear wheelarches:

Inside - http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/02.jpg
Out - http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/04.jpg

I haven't seen anyone selling pieces for this area, are they available?

The floor supports are gone:
http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/06.jpg

The whole area behind the front wheelarches:
http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/08.jpg

The tailgate support box and floor edges, which are also very bad:
http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/10.jpg

Probably best to just patch up this lower front section of the quarter panels for now until I buy whole new panels:
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/11.jpg>http://www.ferraritestarossa.net/blazer/rust/11.jpg</A>

I'll probably have to wait to get large pieces like this:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=40675&BQ=jcw2

Thanks in advance for your help guys. To re-iterate, I'd like advice about what I should do now to get the truck on the road (some repair panels I order may have to be cut off again when I do the full restoration).

Yendor
 
I'd scrap it and find a new body
frown.gif
That looks like a lot of work!!!

Chad
 
Sounds like a good body swap project in the making.You can find 2wd trucks pretty cheap to steal the cab off of and shorten the bed to fit . Finding a good cheap blazer body might be tuff.It could be fixed but that looks like WAY too much work.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</A>
 
I haven't been able to find major floor panels, i'm not sure they exist since I worked at a Chevy dealer when I looked. I plan on having a friend of mine who has a machine shop make me a few pieces for what I need. If your whole bedy is hopeless, there's a company in Fairfax IA, called Rust Free Auto Parts that carries southern bodies for Blazers, Subs, Pickups, and even some ford stuff. Their site is rustfreeparts.com.
 
What all is invovlved in swapping a Truck body on a blazer frame? My rust is pretty nasty (not as bad as this poor guys) but i had thoughta bout getting a truck body then doing a shorty flat bed. And how much would you say a truck body would run? What all would I need to look for in a truck body? Thanks in advance.

Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
 
Also , other than JC Whitney , you can try <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cheyennepickup.com>http://www.cheyennepickup.com</A> as they have loads of rust repair stuff for Blazers .
You could probably build a whole new body from their selection of rust repair stuff which sounds like you need .

"You can't have one foot on either side of the fence if its made of barbed wire".........Common Sense
 
It looks like too much work, but could be done like the other have suggested from those sources. Another option would be to go to the Bummer body kit. It drops like 2000lbs off the weight of the truck and will never rust. (fiberglass) The only drawback is the cost. Its like $5500, but they do have payment options.

If I get a new rolling chassis or rusty bodied blazer that is what I'm going to do

My .02
John

'83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 ZZ4 Crate Motor
'83 Chevy P/U 4x4 Sand Drag Racer, 578 RWHP
'94 Impala SS
'01 Chevy 2500HD w/8.1L & Allison Auto
 
You have almost the EXACT same inner floor rust as I do.. it's the biggest PIA EVER, since I haven't seen anyone that makes a patch panel for the inner corner, where the seatbelt is anchored to. I'm gonna look for a pickup cab for now and put it on the frame after I get my new K-5 on the road. I always wanted a pickup anyway. I just didn't want to be bothered with the length of one.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://billybob87k5.50megs.com>Homepage of Porky & Stinky</A>
Billybob, the REAL <font color=red>Bionic Redneck</font color=red>
 
I thought about this before. I have a brand new pick up short bed that I may try to use as my rear tub. I know I would have to shorten more and make some striker plates for the doors.
Has anyone tried this or thought of this?

I would then only have to get a new front clip and a new front floor board area.

Is this worth it?

74 Blazer
Zepplin
Check out my Blazer <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976>http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976</A>
 
Thank you all for the quick replies. You folks don't inspire me with much confidence though!
wink.gif


There's no chance of finding another body here, but like some of you said, it can be fixed, it's just a lot of work. I've seen worse. I might try to find a rust-free body when I move, but it still has to be at least patched up for the time being.

I think I'll contact Cheyenne Pickup and get them to take a look at those photos.

Heather: That's what British weather does to cars. I think the previous owner was from Scotland, and the truck obviously hasn't been looked after. If only I could go back in time and buy a new one! It's such a shame that most American cars have become small and boring; I'd never buy a new car today. The way I see it though, I'm saving a great vehicle from the scrap heap. It is definitely worth restoring in my opinion for a number of reasons, not least of which because it is a fully optioned-out model. It also has a very decent motor, and of course the freshly rebuilt TH-350.

BTW, what's up with LMC Truck? I've been trying to order a catalog from them for almost a year. They won't answer my e-mails or faxes either.
 
Ymatt, I have some experience in working with severly rusted vehicles because I grew up in Chicago where the vehicles sit in a salty slush all winter. If replacing the body and/or welding in new sections are not available options, I'd suggest cleaning off flaking rust with a wire brush and chisel, and then coat the areas with POR15. Next roughen up the surface of the POR15 with sandpaper and apply large quantities of fiberglass epoxy (Kitty-Hair) found near the bondo in autoparts stores. There should be some nylon mesh in the kit which will help to span the holes. You can use a sanding disc on a drill to smooth it down and then apply some bondo to get your final shape. This type of repair will last a couple years. Good luck. JT
 
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