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Rustoleum Paint question

littlejimmythatcould

littlejimmythatcould

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Has anyone used rustoleum industrial paint? It's sold at Lowe's and Home Depots for like $25 a gallon. It comes in hunter green, safety yellow, gloss black, etc. I'd like to paint my Jimmy with it this summer in my driveway. I know it probably won't be the best paint job ever but it should be a durable one. So... has anyone used it on their trucks (or anything) and what kind of success did you have with it holding up?
 
Rustoleum

Right now my Jimmy is in White Rusto Primer, rolled it on like those guys in that Mopar thread said,but since my body work was bad I left a textured surface and flat white ,so far I have about $10.00 in a paint job.
I can always go back and do a better job but for right now the paint looks pretty good. Forgot to say I stripped it down to bare metal, the factory finish is really tough to get off!!! Later J.
petryshyn said:
Well my plan was to do my truck with a similiar paint (Tremclad) Canadian brand equivilant or something. Never did it yet, but while searching for some answers to the same questions you had I stumbled onto this, so I guess it depends how good you want your truck to look.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Just scroll down and you should see it.
Click to expand...
 
yeah, my truck is primer gray. The guy that owned it before me rattle canned the primer on. It's on there pretty good. I'm going to scuff sand it down and use the paint I was talking about before, the industrial paint. They make a rusty metal primer that I've used in the spray can but it also comes in a gallon can. I live in NM and it's windy here so trying to spray it outside with spray cans is out of the question. I'm going to paint it flat black or gloss hunter green... I haven't decided.
 
It looks okay and holds up fairly well. Rustoleum tends to sun oxidize but it's easy to put on. And if you thin it, it sprays good from an airless house spray painter. You can also wet sand any runs and buff it out after it dries. P.S. it dries slow. I've done 2 this way and they look alright from 15-20 feet.
 
That's good! My buddies at my work are always telling me that I have a 50/50 truck... that is it looks good from 50 feet away while it's going 50 miles an hour.
 
Check it out. Here's my paint job using the rustoleum flat black. Kind of some progress pics. Just bored tonite thought I'd post them up here, too.

1-28 003.jpg

3-29 091.jpg

4-03 036.jpg

4-03 087.jpg

4-03 059.jpg
 
Yeah. I gutted mine and hurculined the whole interior. It took a little less than 2 gallons to do the whole thing. I also went up over the edges of the bed. Make sure and mask off your bolt holes and wear gloves. Foamy earplugs work really good for masking off holes sometimes you have to use 2 or 3 of them together. Just roll them up like you were going to put them in your ear and put them in the hole and let them expand. I took out my back seat and built a storage box for all of my gear. Here's the thread. Hope this works.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175492
There are plenty of hurculiner threads on here. In my opinion, it is the most economical way to line your truck. It is pretty tough stuff and has held up very well.
 
I've done it before and it turned out better than a 50/50 ....was more like a 20/20!

I guess like any painting, the surface should be scuffed up to help the paint "stick".

If you're a little fussy, you'll have to sand scratches, gouges etc, 'cause they will show when you're done painting.

I tried to stick to the original colors that come right out of the can so "touch ups" were easier.

If you're going to go custom, mixing etc, make sure you either make note of the ratio or make extra and save the remainder in a tightly sealed can.

I've used Tremclad like pertyshyn suggested (...I think it's similar to rustoleum.) It can be thinned with appropriate thinner which makes it easier to apply as well as reduces visible brush strokes. I've used Dollar Store rollers (foam) and foam brushes as well, with good success.

Only thing about foam brushes is to not let them dry out when you are using them. There is a tendency to keep trying to apply paint from the brush/foam when you should be going back to the pan to get more. By trying to stretch more out, the foam gets dry, sticks and starts to come apart. No big deal other than little bits of foam come off and stick to the surface you're trying to paint.

I think there is also a problem about applying the paint at dusk as the dew/moisture tends to make the paint go flat...?.....not sure about that.

Flat black is nice on the hood and wiper blade arms to reduce glare from sun. If you're going to do wiper blades make sure you scuff 'em first.
 
...O...M...G!!!!!

I guess I should have clicked on the link to that site first, before I posted a response!!! :o :o :o

There a 20 pages of talk on this subject! :laugh:

What an excellant link. I know I'll be using it when I paint my K-5 when it warms up.
 
Wow, I could use a $50 paint job. Now if only I had a MIG, some rocker panels, some extra flat steel, and some welding skills...
 
heeheehee

wow!,,,`fifty dollar paintjob'=THAT'S INSANE! in the middle of my `87 as i type and i keep wondering wether to go with Imron,Imron high solids clearcoat eurathane base/clear or(drumroll here> use the FIFTY TWO dollar pint of Centari activator i've had leftover and buy a 140 dollar gallon of that,i'm talking just plain old chevy truck code 12 white,,but i want it shiny and durable that's my biz and i have to give people estimates so i have to be SHINEY and PURDY when i drive up:laugh:,i rarely do a single stage job any more so even I and stuttereing about a non-clear coat job being `good enough':haha:,i will say i want a RatRod with red oxide primer=done!:D,,when i started in the bodyshop biz in `80 a gallon of dupont chevy truck white was like 11 bucks and it was white lead not titanium dioxide same as in toothpaste:crazy: the `problem' with weathering on current finishes is#1 the metal based pigments dies toners have pretty much been replaced that's why an old 72 the paint stuck it was metal on metal;) i've watched stuff like tractors and cranes fade out after 2 summers exposure with a fresh repaint using `industrial enamel'but for an offroad rig giver er he--!:bow:,,,,,,,,,,,the cheapest `paint jobs' i did was 125 bucks for a car lot using Nason enamel and that was like 82-3 now it's like a grand in materials is nothing i'm working on a `60 el camino and that's a 550 dollar gallon of red basecoat,yeah its all about gutting out yer wallet nowadays(550 for a gallon of paint come on!):rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:,heehee you guys made my day tho! THANX!:wink1:

LOVE THE BLACK PRIMER!
 
oh yeah

way back there i did some work for an old man who painted cars during the depression @5 bucks per car they were almost all black paint jobs they used a binks #7 gun and most of the cars were model T fords,wow 5 bucks a car think about it:laugh:

this is a memory test for old bondo jockeyshahahaha!
 
is this the right choice???

I was looking at the rustoleum website trying to figure out the best product for this job. Would this be it: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130 ?

Also, would the rattle can be okay for the hard-to-reach areas like the radiator support and even those not so hard-to-reach areas like the interior prior to carpeting? I need to read more about POR-15...
 
Last edited:
can't comment

i opened the link but the house is full=i'm going to hide in the shop and kill a coors:wink1:,i would consider dry times when you're blasting areas like under a hood or in a cab,this time of year if it isn't `acrylic' enamel it might not dry fast enough the whole deal on rust `inhibiting' paint is most of it's an oil base,,,i use and recomend `captain lee's rust away' as a rust killer it's cheap at 23 bucks a gallon at Napa,turns the rust black doesn't leave a coating but it's cheap,,the HOT ingredient in any rust kill product is phosporic acid,,,like naval jelly same HOT ingredient but a real low content the cap`n lee's will burn your skin,,rustoleum i would believe has an oil content,,like they say wanna kill the rust?=dump motor oil on it==hey! belive me i've seen it and had a 35? chevy truck in my shop 25 years ago the guy did just that:doah:,,,oh yeah while my coors is calling i use the rustoleum black lacquer that wal-mart sells for a LOT of things it dries super quick(but it won't ~kill~ rust) PM me if ya want and i'll tell you how to spend a bunch of money but my experienc in nearly 30 years of slingin' bondo is=slower dry costs less,go fast it costs more,using an Alkyd enamel in winter is like well=watching the paint dry!!!,,,,the whole gig with solvent based paint is `flash time' or flash point,,rustoleum doesn't make bad products but if yer in a cold clime i'd be sure you didn't need the rig the same day is all i'm saying,hey! all this paint=i'm thirsty;)

OK SO IF THIS ISN'T KOSHER to mention companys or products i apologize to management,i'm new here but i mean well,please kil my post if it is not policy,:bow:
 
I painted mine with Rustoleum about six months ago. Two tone grey and white like the UAV used to look like. Certainly not a show quality job, but for a truck that is going to see some wheelin, fishin, and to work every once in a while it is just fine. We'll see how long it holds up to the elements though.

Gary
 
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