Stomis
Professional Amateur
Has anyone done it? I wanna move my saddle tank between my frame rails and just extend the gas lines and wiring to save some money. Whats the best way to mount it?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Saddle Tank between frame rails
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
I have not done it,but i'm subscribing to hear what others have to say.I have an aftermarket 25 gal saddle tank on my 80 K20 and was just going to relocate it to the front of the bed with some protection so I could still use the bed without worry.I would guess if the lift is tall enough and maybe a body lift for extra clearance.I would want it at or above the bottom of the frame,but anything would be better than where GM put them.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I've got a flatbed thats way off the frame so it shouldnt be an issue. I'm more worried about how to mount it. I guess a simple 1" box tube crossmember and some straps?
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
Yeah.I just wen't down to the garage to look.If your suspension lift was large enough and the flatbed setting a ways up off the frame you just might be able to fit 2 between the crossmember for the rear spring and the spare tire crossmember.Bumpstops would keep the axle out of them.Point Pleasant-That's pretty close to Lakewood?Used to spend a lot of time down in Seaside.I have an uncle in Brielle and I think my cousin moved to Point Pleasant.I miss the beach.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Whose your cousin? into trucks?
Either way I think if I take the stock strap off I could just make a support frame under the tank. Flip the straps over and tack them to the frame and wahlah!
If things really get confusing I'm just gonna make the frame so the tank sits in it and pickup two really good ratchet straps.
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
Not into trucks.I haven't seen her since my Grandma's funeral like 10 years ago in Lakewood.
What about using the straps thru a hole in the framerail so they can be tightened just like the factory only in reverse?
Pics when the deed is done
What about using the straps thru a hole in the framerail so they can be tightened just like the factory only in reverse?
Pics when the deed is done
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Not into trucks.I haven't seen her since my Grandma's funeral like 10 years ago in Lakewood.
What about using the straps thru a hole in the framerail so they can be tightened just like the factory only in reverse?
Pics when the deed is done
What is the exact design of the stock straps? They just end at a stud and have a tightening mechanism halfway along the strap?
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
The bolt at the end of the strap is the tightening mechanism.I would bet that you could use the whole mounting setup.Unbolt from factory location and reinstall in new location.Looks like you would need longer bolts to get past the c channel portion of the frame.the frame is not as tall above the axle so the longer bolts should suck it up to the inner c and hold tight.I hope this makes sense.I can get some pics tommorrow.I still have one tank(ps)mounted in the stock location and my bed is off for good visibility.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Alright cool. I dont plan to mount it directly ontop of the frame though. I want to build a frame so it can go long ways down the frame rail that way its will sit half below and half above the frame itsself.
I already thought about doing this and the frames on our GM trucks are too narrow, the tanks will hit the driveshaft.
On my jeep wagoneer, it will be a tight fit but it will clear the driveshaft.
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
What you described is exactly how it sits from the factory only now it would basiclly be inboarded and above the axle mounted with the same bracket longways and about centered with a little above and below the frame.The frame measures 27" between the rails above the axle so you should be able to fit 2 saddles.The crossmember for the spare may need to be removed as the tank I have is about 54" long and 13" wide.The brake line bracket may also need to be bent or lowered.I'll shoot those pics tommorrow night and may just drop the tank from the factory location and set it in said place for a visual.(The weather is getting nicer and I need to get my ass in gear on that thing anyway)
plumber mike
1/2 ton status
What about with a lift(shackle flip) and a flatbed that sits up off the frame a ways?It should only come down to about where the bumpstop brackets do.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
get a saddle tank and brackets out of a 1st gen dodge ram (power ram). its inboarded already and im sure it wouldn't take much to adapt it to a chevy. i can get pictures from mine if you'd like
I have put a lot of though into doing this to my truck also.
There are a couple problems that I ran into while checking it out. I had pulled one tank to have it cleaned so I tried it then and found it will hit in a few places. It hits the drive-shaft, the tail-shaft on the t-case, and in order to clear the t-case the tank ends up extremely close the the rear axle arch of travel. Fabbing the new brackets or making use of the oem ones is actually easy because you can you them in the same manner that the factory did, just on the inside. The tank itself just doesn't fit. 
Also keep in mind the filler neck for the tank. You have a flat bed so it would be a little nore straight forward to route.
If the frames on these trucks was just a couple inches wider then it would be an easy conversion to do. I still might inboard them one day( I have dual tanks) but at least the front one would have to be modded to fit or a complete custom one built. Now keep in mind that I'm retaining the stock body height and have a short-bed step-side chassis.
People with a long bed might be able to use the smaller saddle tank but I haven't personally looked or tried on one so I'm not sure. The same with using a 1st gen dodge tank, I'm not sure but it might work.
There are a couple problems that I ran into while checking it out. I had pulled one tank to have it cleaned so I tried it then and found it will hit in a few places. It hits the drive-shaft, the tail-shaft on the t-case, and in order to clear the t-case the tank ends up extremely close the the rear axle arch of travel. Fabbing the new brackets or making use of the oem ones is actually easy because you can you them in the same manner that the factory did, just on the inside. The tank itself just doesn't fit. Also keep in mind the filler neck for the tank. You have a flat bed so it would be a little nore straight forward to route.If the frames on these trucks was just a couple inches wider then it would be an easy conversion to do. I still might inboard them one day( I have dual tanks) but at least the front one would have to be modded to fit or a complete custom one built. Now keep in mind that I'm retaining the stock body height and have a short-bed step-side chassis.
People with a long bed might be able to use the smaller saddle tank but I haven't personally looked or tried on one so I'm not sure. The same with using a 1st gen dodge tank, I'm not sure but it might work.
chevyridinhigh79
1/2 ton status
first gen dodge tank is skinnier i believe. ive had it out before but ive never had the tank out of my chevy to compare
