jpdrake
1/2 ton status
how much should it cost to blast and coat the frame and axels? will the powder coating come out smooth and fill in the pits in the frame? any one have some pics to share?
CK5
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sandblast and powdercoat
- Thread starter jpdrake
- Start date
No the powdercoat will not totally fill in the low spots from deep rust pitting, It will smooth them out somewhat though. About the average good price for a frame is 400 to 500 bucks. The shop that did my buds 66' SS Chevelle frame did an AWESOME job, ZERO grit was left in the frame, and it was powder coated as far up inside the frame as we could see, no bare spots we could find period. They also do a second coat, they grit it, clean it, coat it, bake it, pull it out and re-shoot it, then re-bake it for a rally nice thick coat.
jpdrake
1/2 ton status
so what would i do coat it twice or spread it with filler? 500 seams really cheap to me i was expecting 1000-1500
we all agree pwoder is the strongest right?
we all agree pwoder is the strongest right?
nope, I'm not a fan on a truck.. unless it's a showtruck.. you can never touch it... no welding, drilling, etc... once it starts f*cking up, ie peeling, you cant do anything about it... I'll stick with a quality paint system...
It is a great "base coat". Im powder coating my cage but will probably paint it with whatever I decide so when it does get scratched I can just touch it up, that way the rest of the entire cage is coated, and some scratches might not get clear thru to metal since powdercoat is thich and tough. As far as welding, IF and When I have to do a weld repair or I want to add a tube or something, I would just gring thru and weld it in and repaint with the matching color of paint I used to cover the powder coating.
I would have to feather the powdercoat or just leave a little step, no big deal to me. You cant beat powder coat for adhesion. A GOOD powdercoat job will NOT peal. Atleast I have never seen it. I have seen thin crappy powdercoat peal. Usually do to a poor prep job or no grit blasting at all to the metal. I have a Tuffy center console that is pealing but you can see how thin the powdercoat is and you can tell they never grit blasted the metal.
eh, I knew I'd get an argument with that one.. it's my opinion...
you can not "feather" powdercoat...... once you get an exposed edge, it WILL begin to fail, peel... whether it's overcoated or not... I see it firsthand in the boats daily... I'll stick with epoxy/uro as a "base"....
once again, my opinion... certain things, sure.. truck frame? no way.....
you can not "feather" powdercoat...... once you get an exposed edge, it WILL begin to fail, peel... whether it's overcoated or not... I see it firsthand in the boats daily... I'll stick with epoxy/uro as a "base"....
once again, my opinion... certain things, sure.. truck frame? no way.....
No argument here, I know its your openion, thats cool, relax man it's all good. Thats why I said I would even leave an edge and paint over it if necessary. Have you ever tried to feather powder? I have not but I would try it. Just never had the issue come to to have to do it. I agree if he's gonna wheel it and scratch the hell out of it and drag it over rocks and expects to weld repair often, it may not be worth it.
I personally think Powdercoat is a great product and its tough. I decided against doing my frame but I want to do my cage. I have powdercoated a ton of my brackets and even suspension parts, I have a home kit. I just like the stuff and I have to paint equipment and no nothing about painting. None of my home stuff has pealed ever.
I'm good... I just know the tendencies of it, well, the exaggerated life in a boat... give it a raw edge and it will peel eventually.. it's the nature of the process, it is over raw steel afterall.. it will never actually "feather" it will always have an edge...
It's nice for lots of stuff, but a truck frame, not imo... not really a "workable product" when done.. heck, if I had a spare oven, I'd be doing brackets and such too...
It's nice for lots of stuff, but a truck frame, not imo... not really a "workable product" when done.. heck, if I had a spare oven, I'd be doing brackets and such too...
Wasatch K5
1/2 ton status
jpdrake,
I don't think you can fill (using a bondo like product) prior to powdercoating.
I may be wrong, but for one thing bondo is non-conductive. The process of applying the powder involves charging the powder with a positive charge and the item to be coated with a negative charge. That electrostatic difference applies the powder in a very uniform fashion. I don't know how the powder would "stick" to the bondo.
Also, after the powder is applied, the item is baked at something like 350 degrees for maybe 20 minutes or so. I don't know how the bondo would react to that baking.
I don't think you can fill (using a bondo like product) prior to powdercoating.
I may be wrong, but for one thing bondo is non-conductive. The process of applying the powder involves charging the powder with a positive charge and the item to be coated with a negative charge. That electrostatic difference applies the powder in a very uniform fashion. I don't know how the powder would "stick" to the bondo.
Also, after the powder is applied, the item is baked at something like 350 degrees for maybe 20 minutes or so. I don't know how the bondo would react to that baking.
jpdrake
1/2 ton status
that makes sence
