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sanding the body

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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Hey fellers
Just looking to sand the K5 down, throw some primer, and then roll some Rustoleum on to give it a look that says "don't hate me cause I'm multicolored". :D
Would rather not use chemical. Would rather just throw some masking on it, protect and remove what I can, and go to town with some kind of sanding plan. I have a palm sander, but even with 80grit, it didn't seem to do much....or at least not fast enough.:rolleyes: I don't care about dings or holes, just needs some paint.

any advice would be awesome
thanks:waytogo:
 
7" grinder with a cupped disc, should remove things a little quicker. :D

seriously a DA sander with 100 or 120 grit will do a pretty quick job.

Rene
 
do you have air?

like Rene' says a DA is a good way to do it. use 80 if you want to get somewhere quick, then you could finish sand with 120 before primer, are you rattle canning all stages of prime and paint?
 
I have air.
What is a DA? :)
I'm looking to sand, rattle can prime, and rustoleum roll the final. OR get lazy and rattle can the final too hehehe.
thanks guys
 
ahhhhhh
:)

am I looking to remove all the paint? Is that possible with a DA and 80 grit? Or am I only going to get so much off and hope the primer covers the spots well enough.
 
K85 Octane said:
ahhhhhh
:)

am I looking to remove all the paint? Is that possible with a DA and 80 grit? Or am I only going to get so much off and hope the primer covers the spots well enough.
Click to expand...

You don't have to remove all the original paint, just get through the top layer and give the primer something to bite into. If you have air why not buy a cheap HVLP gun and spray some inexpensive single stage paint?

Rene
 
I've been researching some rustoleum paint jobs but I think when the time comes (very soon) to paint my dodge I'll go the lower upper end route (if that makes any sense at all) :)
I've seen decent results with rustoleum but I've seen great results with a single stage cheap paint kit from places like Summit for not much more $$$.
 
it's all about a catalyzed resin... the difference between air dried and reaction cured is worlds...

it can be done for $200.. and thats buying a economical gun too... $150 gal kit of single stage seems a worthwhile investment.... heck, I bet 1/2 the rattleecan jobs in here end up with $75, 80 worth of paint on em... $5, 6 a can adds up...

obviously a foam roller and gal of rusto or tractor paint is gonna be the cheapest.. but for a $150 increase? i think it's worth it...

heck, guys drop that on mundane parts all the time...
 
ryoken, didn't you have a link to some satin finish single stage paint? That has me thinking...
 
hotrod flatz..... about $150 to your door for a gal kit.. paint and a qrt of hardener and reducer... i ended up just using it for coverage, and went with flattened Imron for the final coats... but it's certainly a superior paint to an air dried product...


http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx
 
ryoken said:
heck, guys drop that on mundane parts all the time...
Click to expand...

Yeah, but most of us consider paint (at least, on the body) a mundane item. :D

So, say someone has a cheapo HVLP gun and properly cleans and scuffs the original paint. Is it gonna take a whole gallon of proper (not rusto or tractor paint) single stage to paint a K5? or would a couple quarts suffice? Or is that a loaded question?

Maybe I should be more specific, and not to hijack this thread because it is relavent to the original post, but if someone has a 'multicolored' K5 or similarly doing a color change, is it going to take a whole gallon for proper coverage? Or would the appropriate primer need to be laid down first and then get proper coverage with only a couple quarts?
 
Good question. Lets say, just for arguments sake :whistle:, this truck is brown/tan and wants to go with silver.
 
well, with that, yes, it is a WAY loaded question... :wink1:


first off, yes, generally if your just shooting exterior sheetmetal on a K5, a gallon, which ends up about 1 1/3 gallons mixed is enough... now, that being said, there are tons of variables.... doing jambs, dash, etc makes that a close call most times...


and the reason for my asking what final color is because different colors cover differently.. brands of paint too whether high solids, etc... try covering grey primer with maroon or navy blue some time and you'll know exactly what i mean...

also if your not priming and your substrate is multi-color, yes it will take an extra couple coats... and the biggest issue is "silver".... metallics throw a whole nother monkey in the gears...

I'll try not type a novel on this one.. :whistle:

after spending the 80's shooting single stage metallics such as Centari, Imron, etc, it is my policy to never recommend a metallic for single stage... solid colors, grey, fine... not that it can't be done, but single stage metallic can be VERY difficult to shoot and problematic... thus any metallic I ALWAYS recommend going base/clear..

also, any metallic, single stage, or even base will not cover as well as a solid... and some metallics are very bad covering... silvers are a perfect example to use... metallic for silvers usually run about 5 different tints, from extra fine thru extra course.. a silver with a fine tint will cover MUCH MUCH better than a silver with heavy course tint.. obviously some contain a variety, some course tint, some fine tint within the formula....

it's HIGHLY recommend to throw a coat of fill, or sealing primer on it to at least give the paint an even substrate to cover.. not that it can't be done, you just go thru a fair bit more paint usually..
 
cool stuff guys

I guess to answer a few questions pointed at me. The reason I want to go with a roll on, is for simple touch ups. I plan on wheeling this truck, without the Brian dents, but paint missing and all that good stuff. Even with damage, I'd like to be able to break out the roller, and touch it up. Simple. Cheap, solid color, look better than primer, and easily touchupable. :) Nice cage btw Brian. :D
DSC_0378.jpg
 
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