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Sas Questions

blazin_blazer

blazin_blazer

1/2 ton status
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:1zhelp: since this is a completly custom job, how do you know what size(lift springs) you need to get to a certain height? i've been told that 4'' front springs, with regular shackles, will actually lift the front of the truck about 7''. this is with out hanging the springs down from the frame too far and makeing a plate(4'' channel?) to hang down under the boxed frame just enuff to use the square shackle hanger on the truck.

if that is so 8'' springs will lift it about 11"'s and 6'' springs will give you around 9''? any one know answers to this question that has many different answers.(due to the route you take) i guess i should just ask how are you doing this and how much lift is expected over what the spring already has? i want to run 38" tires and no cutting and use the ford axle and have a driveshaft made if i dont have one that will work already.

i want to leave my vortec tbi and 4l60e and np243 transfercase(i believe that is right, its the electric, push button 4wd) computer and all that along. how does this work ,as the new model ifs front axles turn all the time factory. will this just stop and when i push the button it will lock in the transfercase and of course i will have the manual hubs i have to lock in. or will this even work with this transfercase?as i understand it, there is a solenoid in the diff that actually locks this thing into 4wd. will i have to find a np241? and if so can i still use a solenoid to lock the transfercase in and out or will i have to stick a shifter up thru my floor.:crazy:

if thats the case i may go ahead and and put a ford driverside drop np205 in it and twin stick it if i can get the right adaptor to put it behind the 4l60e. once you get the front where you need it , do you just match parts in the rear...i.e. shackle reversal and spring maybe longer shackles to help driveshaft angle? to get it leveled out? any info will be greatly appreciated, i've searched but don't find the swap on the push button 4wd. thanks ahead of time to anyone who lends their knowledge!:bow: post up links to all the threads that discuss this if you don't mind. thanks:what:

btw its a 96 4door tahoe
 
yes your 243 will work, the light will blink on the pushbotton b/c it cant sense the ifs diff actuator but its still in 4wd...

you take however many inches of lift the hangers you have give + the lift springs+ if you have a zero rate or not and thats how much lift you get, you can fit 38s on 8" or so if you cut but youll need a good bit more if you dont

here is a members truck with 8" and 38s

truck782.jpg
 
really depends on whose kit you use... offroad direct's kit is 3" (and crap, BTW), OffRoad Unlimited's is 4", and Sky Manufacturing produces a 6" kit.
 
Cajun4x4 said:
yes your 243 will work, the light will blink on the pushbotton b/c it cant sense the ifs diff actuator but its still in 4wd...
Click to expand...
What if the actuator remains electrically connected but is strapped to the frame somewhere, would the light still blink or stay solid?







beater_k20 said:
offroad direct's kit is 3" (and crap, BTW),
Click to expand...
What don't you like about the kit? Or is it an ok kit, but not worth the money?



.
 
Wow, I must have missed that thread! Thanks for the warning.
 
kits...hhmmff...haven't seen any kits, i'll check out the post above....i thought you had to custom build it all and use 2nd gen lift springs. if there are kits out there that should make the job alot easier!
 
what if

divorced said:
What if the actuator remains electrically connected but is strapped to the frame somewhere, would the light still blink or stay solid?/quote]

if your running a cable lock diff , why couldn't u use this actuator to lock your front diff and still use it?;)
Click to expand...
 
thanks for the heads up beater, how do you like the kit you have, and did you wind up using the sky kit? now i'll try and find their site prolly do a google search for solid front axle swaps?
 
the Sky kit looks great, but being the first run of the kit, its got a few issues that need to be adressed. nothing major though, and Sky seems very interested in my build, and wants to know any drawbacks of the kit so it can be improved. so far the only thing that i have come across is the holes in the front crossmember where the tow hooks normally mount (and are used to locate the front crossmember) are spaceda little wider than they should be. not really an issue to me since i was planning on a complete weld in kit anyways. i plan on adding some more support to the already beefy front crossmember, just for a little extra insurance.

in September i took a trip for work to Oregon, and ended up staying in Springfield about 4 miles from Sky's shop. when i got there i saw the prototype truck sitting out front, it had just been finished a few hours earlier. the guys at the shop were all top notch, and if you've seen any of their work, you'll know that the work was too.
 
blazin_blazer said:
divorced said:
What if the actuator remains electrically connected but is strapped to the frame somewhere, would the light still blink or stay solid?/quote]

if your running a cable lock diff , why couldn't u use this actuator to lock your front diff and still use it?;)
Click to expand...

Becaus ethe cable lock is REPLACING the actuator. the cable lock shifts the front axle into place rather than the thermal linear actuator... the t case is still shifted as it usually is...
Click to expand...
 
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