SAS Swap check list...

[93Blazed]

Hey guys,

New here but looking into doing an SAS to my 93' Blazer. I'm wondering if anyone has ever or has a check list of sorts that lists out all of what is needed and what needs to be done. I was able to pick up a 78' Dana 44 for $90.00 here locally. It's gonna need a go through for sure. As for the Blazer I'm planing on 3" lift total with the ORD kit and stock 47'' springs up front. Either a 3" block or new springs in the rear. I don't need to go crazy high just want a bit more tire clearance and with 160K on the chassis the IFS is getting loose. Rear end is 3.73 right now and I'm comfortable with the way it drives and tow's. I've got plenty of power under the hood.

Thanks for any links or help with this guys, just want to get everything on hand and ready to go before I tackle this job.

93Blazed

The balanced/Blue Printed built 350, 204/214 cam, Roller rockers, TBI Spacer, Flow Matched Injectors, Full MSD Ignition System, Salad Bowl, TBIChips.com Custom chip, Hooker Headers, Flowmaster Muffs, 32" aluminum radiator, 100 Amp alternator, high torque starter.

On the Salt Flats in Bonneville this past Summer.

 

[Russell]

That's a very pretty Blazer! Gonna look great with the SFA

I run the ORD kit on my 95 Tahoe, and I very much recommend it. Esspecially running the stock length springs. It will be very stable and handle well.

As for a check list of things to do:

1. Steering -- You have no choice but to run a crossover system. With a D44 that will involve buying a machined knuckle for the passenger side to install the crossover steering arm onto. There is no need to run a high steer setup unless you want to move your tie rod up and out of the way to avoid rock damage. You actually loose a little bit of leverage going with high steer. With you running a bit of a smaller lift and tire package than I am, you may be able to get away without hydraulic assist. I found that I was unable to steer without it on my truck. ORD has a great crossover steering kit that comes with a pitman arm, crossover steering arm and a new drag link with ends.

2. Brakes -- Your truck has ABS. This can be troublesome with a solid axle swap as it isn't easy to fix the wheel speed sensors to the D44. There is a way of doing so on the older D60s, but even then I opted to simply delete the ABS unit as I don't like my truck activating the ABS offroad.

As long as you are careful not to allow your master cylinder to run out of fluid and introduce air into your ABS module, you can simply unplug the power from it and it will proportion your brakes for you. If you get air in the system, you will need a special scanner to activate the bleed sequence in the module. Most normal off the shelf units are not able to do this.

The other option you have available to you would be to simply remove the ABS module all together and replace it with an aftermarket proportioning valve like some of the offerings that Wilwood has. This was the route I took with my truck. I also had some proportioning issues I had to work out due to a rear disc brake swap (wound up fitting 10 bolt calipers to my D60 to fix that...), and the requirement to upgrade up to a Disc/Disc master cylinder with a 1.5" bore to achieve a solid pedal (the stock didn't have enough volume, you shouldn't have this issue with the D44 brakes)

Of course, you will need to add a set of extended brake lines into the mix as well.

3. Suspension -- Up front is obvious, you simply run a set of stock 47" springs up front and bolt the diff up. I would recommend poly spring bushings vs rubber for better handling. Out back, you can either run a 3" block as you suggested earlier, or you can go with an ORD shackle flip. That will give you about 4" out back, which will give your truck a nice rake. It'll also articulate / ride a bit better as well.

4. Electrical -- There isn't a whole lot to do here. Your IFS diff has a disconnect in it that also acts to turn on your 4x4 indicator. You can just tie the two wires for the light together and it will turn on as soon as you pull your transfercase into 4hi or 4lo.

5. Driveshafts -- Your front driveshaft is not designed for any articulation at all. Being a 93, you may be lucky and have a flange on the front of your transfer case instead of a slip like the newer transfer cases have. If you do have a slip, it will need to be changed to a flange. In this case, it is easier to just swap the t-case than to tear down and change the front output shaft. Since you have a flange up front, you'll be running a CV front drive shaft which means you have to have an all new one made up. You need to keep the tubing for it quite small so it doesn't hit the transmission shifter and make sure you get the right size u-joint put it in it for the D44.

6. Exhaust -- You will need to make sure that your exhaust on the driver's side is going to clear the new front driveshaft coming up much higher than it did stock. Since the IFS diff does not move, things are sometimes put quite close to the front driveshaft. Mods may be required.

Of course, this is all assuming the D44 is a driver's side drop. If not, you'll need to swap t-cases and the shifter. There is no point in doing this when DS drop D44s are quite common in 6 lug. No point in making things more difficult for yourself than they need to be.

 

[dhcomp]

I had a 94, and miss the hell out of that truck. There was a SAS'd one about the same specs you are talking that went on craiglist around here.

GOing to be sweet. Good luck!

 

[plyr2k]

Front shock relocation.

Bump stops.

I don't know if you plan on trimming the factory crossmember, but if you don't you'll need new material to tie the frame rails together.

You're going to need a torch during disassembly. It will make life SO much easier.

I don't know if 2 doors came with rear heat, but the rear heat lines on my Burban were kinda in the way.

Like said previously, exhaust is a deal. I am running a passenger side drop case, so it was more of an issue for me.

I used DIY4X's kit. It's beefy and bolted in fairly straight forward. I would definitely recommend it to anyone.

 

[Russell]

Front shock relocation.

Bump stops.

I don't know if you plan on trimming the factory crossmember, but if you don't you'll need new material to tie the frame rails together.

You're going to need a torch during disassembly. It will make life SO much easier.

I don't know if 2 doors came with rear heat, but the rear heat lines on my Burban were kinda in the way.

Like said previously, exhaust is a deal. I am running a passenger side drop case, so it was more of an issue for me.

I used DIY4X's kit. It's beefy and bolted in fairly straight forward. I would definitely recommend it to anyone.

Good call on the bumps and shocks! I used ford shock towers on my truck and welded a set of bumps on the bottom of my frame rails to catch the spring perches.

If I do another SAS I won't cut the factory engine crossmember out. That made for a lot more work to re brace everything.

 

[plyr2k]

Good call on the bumps and shocks! I used ford shock towers on my truck and welded a set of bumps on the bottom of my frame rails to catch the spring perches.

If I do another SAS I won't cut the factory engine crossmember out. That made for a lot more work to re brace everything.

If you look at mine I just trimmed it and boxed where I trimmed. I believe a stout number and that cross member will be plenty.

With the 32" pad width bumps on the frame are perfect for the spring plates.

 

[93Blazed]

That's a very pretty Blazer! Gonna look great with the SFA

I run the ORD kit on my 95 Tahoe, and I very much recommend it. Esspecially running the stock length springs. It will be very stable and handle well.

As for a check list of things to do:

1. Steering -- You have no choice but to run a crossover system. With a D44 that will involve buying a machined knuckle for the passenger side to install the crossover steering arm onto. There is no need to run a high steer setup unless you want to move your tie rod up and out of the way to avoid rock damage. You actually loose a little bit of leverage going with high steer. With you running a bit of a smaller lift and tire package than I am, you may be able to get away without hydraulic assist. I found that I was unable to steer without it on my truck. ORD has a great crossover steering kit that comes with a pitman arm, crossover steering arm and a new drag link with ends.

Understood..

2. Brakes -- Your truck has ABS. This can be troublesome with a solid axle swap as it isn't easy to fix the wheel speed sensors to the D44. There is a way of doing so on the older D60s, but even then I opted to simply delete the ABS unit as I don't like my truck activating the ABS offroad.

As long as you are careful not to allow your master cylinder to run out of fluid and introduce air into your ABS module, you can simply unplug the power from it and it will proportion your brakes for you. If you get air in the system, you will need a special scanner to activate the bleed sequence in the module. Most normal off the shelf units are not able to do this.

The other option you have available to you would be to simply remove the ABS module all together and replace it with an aftermarket proportioning valve like some of the offerings that Wilwood has. This was the route I took with my truck. I also had some proportioning issues I had to work out due to a rear disc brake swap (wound up fitting 10 bolt calipers to my D60 to fix that...), and the requirement to upgrade up to a Disc/Disc master cylinder with a 1.5" bore to achieve a solid pedal (the stock didn't have enough volume, you shouldn't have this issue with the D44 brakes)

Of course, you will need to add a set of extended brake lines into the mix as well.

Hmm I forgot about the damn ABS, looks like the worthless thing is going bye bye. I hated how it worked anyways.

3. Suspension -- Up front is obvious, you simply run a set of stock 47" springs up front and bolt the diff up. I would recommend poly spring bushings vs rubber for better handling. Out back, you can either run a 3" block as you suggested earlier, or you can go with an ORD shackle flip. That will give you about 4" out back, which will give your truck a nice rake. It'll also articulate / ride a bit better as well.

Interesting. I wasn't sure what the shackle flip would do for ride height? Now I know.

4. Electrical -- There isn't a whole lot to do here. Your IFS diff has a disconnect in it that also acts to turn on your 4x4 indicator. You can just tie the two wires for the light together and it will turn on as soon as you pull your transfercase into 4hi or 4lo.

That's easy enough.

5. Driveshafts -- Your front driveshaft is not designed for any articulation at all. Being a 93, you may be lucky and have a flange on the front of your transfer case instead of a slip like the newer transfer cases have. If you do have a slip, it will need to be changed to a flange. In this case, it is easier to just swap the t-case than to tear down and change the front output shaft. Since you have a flange up front, you'll be running a CV front drive shaft which means you have to have an all new one made up. You need to keep the tubing for it quite small so it doesn't hit the transmission shifter and make sure you get the right size u-joint put it in it for the D44.

Driveshaft is flanged at the T-Case, Clearance looks pretty good as well.

6. Exhaust -- You will need to make sure that your exhaust on the driver's side is going to clear the new front driveshaft coming up much higher than it did stock. Since the IFS diff does not move, things are sometimes put quite close to the front driveshaft. Mods may be required.

Hooker Headers already installed tons of room for Shaft clearance.

Of course, this is all assuming the D44 is a driver's side drop. If not, you'll need to swap t-cases and the shifter. There is no point in doing this when DS drop D44s are quite common in 6 lug. No point in making things more difficult for yourself than they need to be.

Yep the one I have is drivers side. Picked it up for $90.00 at a local yard here in Spokane. Just needs to be re geared and cleaned up. Any suggestions on where to get 3.73 for the Dana 44?


I was planning on leaving the front cross member in and triming only the old A arm mounts off.

93Blazed

 

[dhcomp]

Yep the one I have is drivers side. Picked it up for $90.00 at a local yard here in Spokane. Just needs to be re geared and cleaned up. Any suggestions on where to get 3.73 for the Dana 44?


I was planning on leaving the front cross member in and triming only the old A arm mounts off.

93Blazed

For a front axle, i wouldn't worry about using used gears in good shape. But, that being said, you will be MILES ahead to find an axle with teh right gear ratio, rather than pay someone $500 ish to setup new gears. Unless you are equipped to set them up yourself, i'd pay a bit more for an axle that is setup how you need it.

 

[Russell]

For a front axle, i wouldn't worry about using used gears in good shape. But, that being said, you will be MILES ahead to find an axle with teh right gear ratio, rather than pay someone $500 ish to setup new gears. Unless you are equipped to set them up yourself, i'd pay a bit more for an axle that is setup how you need it.

As for buying them new, I would suggest having a look at onlydiff.com. I know the fella who owns / operates that business and he has great customer support. I bought an ARB locker from him that got trashed during shipping and he replaced the whole thing on his own dime. Randy's Ring and Pinion is another great distributor.

I personally like Yukon gears as they are often just re-badged OEM gears. I've also had good success with Nitro gears as well.

 

[plyr2k]

I was planning on leaving the front cross member in and triming only the old A arm mounts off.

93Blazed

You have to trim the sides of the crossmember or they interfere with the leafs.

Also, the shackle flip, for me, and 52's out front worked out alright. I would suggest using a zero rate to move your front axle forward, and possible a 2" block out back. I have zero rates front and rear, and my rear end appears a little low. My shackle angle is fairly steep out back though.

Another thing to consider from my previous statement, i read somewhere that the front rear spring hangar is different on the tahoes and half ton burbs. I seen a new front hangar from a vendor that might help you raise the rear if you dont like blocks.

My burban is a 3/4 ton so i have the different hangars.