Put a new radiator in along with a new t-stat. Still gets warm, a little over 210 degrees.
What would you check next? The sending unit?
What would you check next? The sending unit?
CK5
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SBC getting warm
- Thread starter thatK30guy
- Start date
Unless you have obvious signs of overheating, never trust the factory gauge without verification.
On the whole they are reliable, but if one is wrong, you can spend a ton of money without correcting the problem.
Always make sure you have a problem before trying to fix it.........
I would find a good mechanical gauge to make sure what is what.
Also, do not trust the thermostat. Even a new one.
I would pull it back out, checking to make sure its not in upside down, put it in a pot of water on the stove with a known good thermometer.
Meat thermometer will work.
Let the water heat up as you watch the thermostat. It should be fully open at its rated temp.
On the whole they are reliable, but if one is wrong, you can spend a ton of money without correcting the problem.
Always make sure you have a problem before trying to fix it.........
I would find a good mechanical gauge to make sure what is what.
Also, do not trust the thermostat. Even a new one.
I would pull it back out, checking to make sure its not in upside down, put it in a pot of water on the stove with a known good thermometer.
Meat thermometer will work.
Let the water heat up as you watch the thermostat. It should be fully open at its rated temp.
what was the temp on the old t-stat? It may have been cooler...
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
fan clutch?
heating up at idle or while driing?
heating up at idle or while driing?
Old radiator was leaking at the top hose bung and when it got hot, steam start blowing from under the hood. A new radiator was required here.
Same as what its reading now, between 210 and 265. Needle pegs in the middle and sometimes gets closer to the 265.
Too poor for one.
Heats up at idle and while driving.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
if you have one,you could hook up anether guage to the sending unit and see whats it is.just to rule that out.i have a universal sending unit that makes it easier to do it with but its only 3 wires.easy to hook up anether guage if you have one handy.i have a extra guage cluster that i pulled from the junkyark to use for engine diagnostics also.works pretty good.just unhook what you need as far as sensor or sending unit and hook up guage cluster with aligator clips to what sending unit youy are trying.or a aftermarket 3 guage cluster works good too.i used that at one time as well.you can test the coolant by putting a thermometer in the radiator fluid with the cap off.once the thermostat opens,you should be able to check it after it stableizes a lil.both methods ive used.the second not as safe with a full radiator if it boils over and wont have the fluid under pressure.but will give you a baseline of how hot the fluid is when the thermostat opens inside the engine.at 210 your fans should be fully on whether it is clutch fan or electric.has the system been fully burped of all air?replacement radiator a know good used one or new?same number of rows or more?couple things to think about.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
you reused the old fan blade right?
just a thought, I had a friend awhile back that was fighting an overheating problem no matter what, they did everything they could think of, except put the correct rotation fan blade unit on the engine...
I was staring at the engine compartment racking my brain and happened to notice the reverse rotation fan blades that someone installed.
just a thought, I had a friend awhile back that was fighting an overheating problem no matter what, they did everything they could think of, except put the correct rotation fan blade unit on the engine...
I was staring at the engine compartment racking my brain and happened to notice the reverse rotation fan blades that someone installed.
to much money ? ? ? http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT4-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Sighting/dp/B0002198GY
i have seen people and my self have saved tons of time and money with mine.
used it to solve a bad tstat NOT the coolent flush thay figured thay needed with new coolent already
bad carb in need of a reman job as 2 plane intake manifold showed cold start odd/even cylinders warm and cold = 1/2 the carb pluged and not realy flowing.
bad injector plug clip letting plug slide off and disable injector = skip in motor
brake problems side to side heat diffrence.
and tons of other things. and will save you tons of money in the end.
i have seen people and my self have saved tons of time and money with mine.
used it to solve a bad tstat NOT the coolent flush thay figured thay needed with new coolent already
bad carb in need of a reman job as 2 plane intake manifold showed cold start odd/even cylinders warm and cold = 1/2 the carb pluged and not realy flowing.
bad injector plug clip letting plug slide off and disable injector = skip in motor
brake problems side to side heat diffrence.
and tons of other things. and will save you tons of money in the end.
