CK5
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Schematic
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
I have some stuff on
http://brochures.slosh.com/wiring/
for example
http://brochures.slosh.com/wiring/76 - 77 Chassis 2.pdf
If that doesn't do it, I can scan pages from the FSM's I have ... around here ... somewhere...
-- A
http://brochures.slosh.com/wiring/
for example
http://brochures.slosh.com/wiring/76 - 77 Chassis 2.pdf
If that doesn't do it, I can scan pages from the FSM's I have ... around here ... somewhere...
-- A
Ugh. I see your point -- I just looked at the directional switch in detail, and it's like a 4PDT with two more DPDT's. That crap makes my head spin.
Let's try a different tack: Are you trying to fix a broken setup, or do something clever like add on to a working one?
-- A
I'm trying to decide if I want to entirely rewire my crew cab when I go to an aluminum dash or if I just want to patch in to the existing wiring. Some of the wiring in the engine bay is not so great. Some for the tail lights is kinda bad shape. Rather than do alot of repairs, it may be simpler and better quality for sure to replace all of it like I did on the blazer.
I could seperate the stop/turn circuit into two seperate circuits but then trailer wiring becomes a problem since that would still have the two circuits together. On the blazer this was not a consideration. I just ditched the turn signals.
Right now, I'm leaning toward keeping the underdash wiring except the pigtail that feeds the instrument panel and dumping everything outside the firewall. Kind of a marriage of the two extremes I guess.
All I would be keeping at that point is the fuse panel and up to the instrument panel plug.
The only really gnarly part is the switches in the column; that bit made my head spin. The rest is fairly straight forward.
OTOH, if it was me, I'd just replace suspect wiring/connectors with the closest color match I could find. Makes it easier to diagnose down the line if it's the same as original, prolly.
-- A
OTOH, if it was me, I'd just replace suspect wiring/connectors with the closest color match I could find. Makes it easier to diagnose down the line if it's the same as original, prolly.
-- A
Yeah, its just one of those things, you're so close to having done the whole works, you have to ask the question, "Why not do the whole thing?"
I'll have to do some thinkin' on it. I guess one of the other naggin' thoughts is, how much discrepancy in the instrumentation is caused by old wiring, bad connections and corrosion?
LOL ... you've seen my gauge cluster then? Add to that the age of the gauges, and you see why your aluminum dash -- along with *new* gauges -- is raising higher on my list of Stuff To Do.
I haven't looked at the pickups, but there's the main junction block at the firewall, the connection on the back of the cluster (which is LOUSY at best), and then the various bulb sockets around the truck. I'm thinking the pickups might have another plug somewhere between the bed and the frame? The sockets you can get aftermarket, as in new, but yeah, the firewall connection ... ugh. Sanding or filing that mess ... ugh.
-- A
LOL ... you've seen my gauge cluster then? Add to that the age of the gauges, and you see why your aluminum dash -- along with *new* gauges -- is raising higher on my list of Stuff To Do.
I haven't looked at the pickups, but there's the main junction block at the firewall, the connection on the back of the cluster (which is LOUSY at best), and then the various bulb sockets around the truck. I'm thinking the pickups might have another plug somewhere between the bed and the frame? The sockets you can get aftermarket, as in new, but yeah, the firewall connection ... ugh. Sanding or filing that mess ... ugh.
-- A
I'm right there with you. I'm just thankful right now, its not something that has to be done right away. I have a good amount of time to get things organized and planned out.
I personally dislike the factory Chevy tail/turn signal light deal. I would rewire it if you going to do any custom work. If you want to say add a brake light you have to run a new wire anyway or it blinks.
I dislike it also. Seems overly complicated. I'm sure it was done to save some cash.
One of the reasons its not sinking in, is, from what I can tell, its wrong.
Its a really nice clean schematic, and when I saw it, I liked it better than the ones I have.
But, the more I looked at it, the weirder it became.
The top row of contacts is the emergency flasher switch. And it makes sense.
But, look at the brake light switch. (white wire)
When closed, it should send power to both rear brake lights unless one of the turn signals is on.
But, it is not shown hooked to anything. It should be hooked to the wire going between yellow and dark blue, but there is no dot.
Plus, the dark blue wire is wrong. It goes to the front turn signal. If the brake light wire was hooked up where it should be, the right front signal would come on when you hit the brakes and the right rear would not.
So the positions of the dark blue and dark green are reversed.
Swap the positions of the blue and green, add the dot where the brake light crosses, and I think its correct.
This one is not as nice and clean, but its right.
To figure out how it works, is really simple. Look at the clean schematic. Put the dot where it should be, and swap the two wires.
Remember this picture is when no signals are turned on, no brake lights, no e-flasher.
Now, ignore the top set of contacts, they are the emergency flasher.
The turn signals are on the bottom.
Only the two contacts connected by the dotted line move when the lever is turned in that direction.
For instance, when you turn left, only the two left contacts move. The right stays where they are.
And vice versa.
The flasher is not hooked to anything. Both rear brake lights, yellow and dark green are hooked to the brake light switch.
When you go to turn left, the two left contacts switch to the flasher causeing it to start flashing and the front and rear bulbs flash.
When the contacts moved, the yellow was removed from the brake light contact and hooked to the flasher.
That way, if you hit the brake light switch, only the right one comes on.
The other side works the same way.
Check out the schematic I posted, and you will see the wires hooked up like I say.
Its a really nice clean schematic, and when I saw it, I liked it better than the ones I have.
But, the more I looked at it, the weirder it became.
The top row of contacts is the emergency flasher switch. And it makes sense.
But, look at the brake light switch. (white wire)
When closed, it should send power to both rear brake lights unless one of the turn signals is on.
But, it is not shown hooked to anything. It should be hooked to the wire going between yellow and dark blue, but there is no dot.
Plus, the dark blue wire is wrong. It goes to the front turn signal. If the brake light wire was hooked up where it should be, the right front signal would come on when you hit the brakes and the right rear would not.
So the positions of the dark blue and dark green are reversed.
Swap the positions of the blue and green, add the dot where the brake light crosses, and I think its correct.
This one is not as nice and clean, but its right.
To figure out how it works, is really simple. Look at the clean schematic. Put the dot where it should be, and swap the two wires.
Remember this picture is when no signals are turned on, no brake lights, no e-flasher.
Now, ignore the top set of contacts, they are the emergency flasher.
The turn signals are on the bottom.
Only the two contacts connected by the dotted line move when the lever is turned in that direction.
For instance, when you turn left, only the two left contacts move. The right stays where they are.
And vice versa.
The flasher is not hooked to anything. Both rear brake lights, yellow and dark green are hooked to the brake light switch.
When you go to turn left, the two left contacts switch to the flasher causeing it to start flashing and the front and rear bulbs flash.
When the contacts moved, the yellow was removed from the brake light contact and hooked to the flasher.
That way, if you hit the brake light switch, only the right one comes on.
The other side works the same way.
Check out the schematic I posted, and you will see the wires hooked up like I say.
Well I have the simple way of wiring it all from scratch in one of my old Kit Car magazines, the problem is, I have 12 cases of magazines I need to go thru and sort to file all my info in a way I can search thru it.
If it's something that can wait a few weeks I could probably get the time to find the mag and scan those for you bit not for at least a week or so.
If it's something that can wait a few weeks I could probably get the time to find the mag and scan those for you bit not for at least a week or so.
Crap... I'll admit those wiring diagrams were a mite suspect to begin with (not from a factory manual, etc) but it's not like I checked them at all... 
-- A
-- A
Idk if they can wait, but I can. If you could find and scan that sometime in the next 3 or 4 months it would be a great help when I finally get to the point of wiring.
x2. I can wait, just in the planning stages now.
I have the 87 version here, but no easy scanning capability..
here's one link I had kicking around...
http://www.tpub.com/basae/54.htm
mine was pretty much custom, when it comes back out this time, it'll be full custom..
here's one link I had kicking around...
http://www.tpub.com/basae/54.htm
mine was pretty much custom, when it comes back out this time, it'll be full custom..
