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School me on adjusting valves

wilpetty

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I did a google search but I got a bunch of different answers. I already have the intake down but I can use TDC and 180 out I think? I dont know which valve in intake and which one is exhaust. I know to twist the stick until it firms up and do half a turn more. Please make this clear for me to do:confused:
 
Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual, follow the steps and you will be good to go. Exhaust valve is in alignment with exhaust port, intake will be aligned with intake runners. Better yet if you can get someone to help you that has done it before would be a big help. You would not want to stuff a valve into a piston from having them over tightened.
If i lived near by i would help in a jiffy, but to many states are between us. Find someone that knows to help you, not saying you can't do it but better safe than sorry with a new motor.
 
remove plugs, valve covers, and turn over by hand only....
get a timing tape to fit your harmonic balancer, or make marks every 90* using the factory TDC mark on the balancer a reference, this will tell you when each cyl is up to firing position
#1 is the front cylinder on the drivers side of the engine....firing order is 18436572.
by turning the harmonic balancer bolt get #1 on firing position...as you turn the engine over by hand, clockwise from the front, notice what the two valves on #1 are doing, and watch your timing mark for #1 cyl TDC...the valve will open/close as follows...intake valve opening as the piston travels down the cyl (Intake cycle of the 4 cycles), intake closing when the piston starts up the cylinder, both valves closed when at TDC firing position (compression cycle), both valves closed as piston travels down the cylilnder (Power cycle) exhaust valve opens when piston starts up the cylinder (exhaust cycle)...the piston starts up the cylinder and as it gets to TDC exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will be opening....DO NOT adjust valves when the piston is at TDC here...you are 180* away from the firing TDC....watch the valves closely for movement and if you see no movement for about 90* before TDC you are on compression stroke to set the valves. you can also watch the distributor to confirm you are at firing position for that cylinder.


Now, when you get each piston at firing TDC position, (as you go through the firing order, the next cylinder to be adjusted will be 90* from the last when checking the marks you made on the balancer turning clockwise from the front of engine....confirm position by watching the rotor on the dist as well.....then adjust each pair of valves for that cylinder...

loosen both rocker arms for the cylinder you are working on, then tighten slowly by moving the pushrod up and down from the lifter to the pushrod, when the up and down movement is gone, go 1/4 to 1/2 turn further to set preload for a hydraulic lifter....if mechanical, this is when you check with a feeler guage between the rocker tip and the valve tip for specified clearance.

Continue through the firing order until you get back to #1 firing again, button it up and fire away
 
remove plugs, valve covers, and turn over by hand only....
get a timing tape to fit your harmonic balancer, or make marks every 90* using the factory TDC mark on the balancer a reference, this will tell you when each cyl is up to firing position
#1 is the front cylinder on the drivers side of the engine....firing order is 18436572.
by turning the harmonic balancer bolt get #1 on firing position...as you turn the engine over by hand, clockwise from the front, notice what the two valves on #1 are doing, and watch your timing mark for #1 cyl TDC...the valve will open/close as follows...intake valve opening as the piston travels down the cyl (Intake cycle of the 4 cycles), intake closing when the piston starts up the cylinder, both valves closed when at TDC firing position (compression cycle), both valves closed as piston travels down the cylilnder (Power cycle) exhaust valve opens when piston starts up the cylinder (exhaust cycle)...the piston starts up the cylinder and as it gets to TDC exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will be opening....DO NOT adjust valves when the piston is at TDC here...you are 180* away from the firing TDC....watch the valves closely for movement and if you see no movement for about 90* before TDC you are on compression stroke to set the valves. you can also watch the distributor to confirm you are at firing position for that cylinder.


Now, when you get each piston at firing TDC position, (as you go through the firing order, the next cylinder to be adjusted will be 90* from the last when checking the marks you made on the balancer turning clockwise from the front of engine....confirm position by watching the rotor on the dist as well.....then adjust each pair of valves for that cylinder...

loosen both rocker arms for the cylinder you are working on, then tighten slowly by moving the pushrod up and down from the lifter to the pushrod, when the up and down movement is gone, go 1/4 to 1/2 turn further to set preload for a hydraulic lifter....if mechanical, this is when you check with a feeler guage between the rocker tip and the valve tip for specified clearance.

Continue through the firing order until you get back to #1 firing again, button it up and fire away

I'm not trying to say you're wrong I'm right, because I'm pretty sure you have a ton more experience here than me (I have next to none, actually, the one time I've done this was last week and you can read my thread on my truck being stuck in Colorado to see how well that went:rolleyes:), but this is different from what the 88 factory service manual says. Maybe it's just a difference between the different years? I don't even know what year we're talking about with wilpetty's Blazer. I don't have it in front of me, but it only had two adjustment positions- TDC for cyl#1, and TDC for cyl#6 (which will be the time that the timing mark is showing TDC but cyl#1 actually isn't there). It then listed which valves can be adjusted each time.

Your way makes logical sense (more logical than the manual), are they both ok? Is the manual way just that way because they don't come with a timing tape around the whole harmonic balancer, so they're just making do with what's on there?

Also, the 88 service manual says one FULL turn after eliminating play, which seemed overly tight to me, and may well be the reason I couldn't get my truck running, any input on that?
 
TDC 1 and TDC 6 save you some spinning of the motor over.. there are a few ways to do this where the end result is the same......


I do at least a 1/2 dozen SB and BB a yr... I generally do the 2 position 1 and 6 method most of time, it's quickest.. but have used the other methods..


this links pretty good... http://www.centuryperformance.com/valve-adjustment-procedure.html


I generally go a 1/2 turn past zero on BB's and 3/4's on SB's...


Will... just remember this... too tight is very bad when adjusting valves.. it WILL run f*cked up.. loose, it'll just be noisy till you readjust it..
 
My personal preference is to work on one cylinder at a time, and not jump around from one to another at different points of crankshaft rotation....IT can be done a few different ways...the important thing is to make sure the lifter is on the heel of the lobe, and not the ramp or nose of the lobe.
I'm not sure about the only using 2 points on the crank though...seems like some of the lifters would be on a ramp????

I have always used 1/2 turn for the last 40 years, on hydraulic Chevys.

Another good way is to set as described above then run the engine with pushrod oil deflectors, and adjust with the engine running....very messy, but you get a real good idea of what is going on with your setting that way.
 
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