Search feature is there, you just have to buy a red star to get it.
As far as full hydro, here is a crash course
-Orbitol Valve
The orbitol valve is what takes the place of your steering box, your steering wheel hooks to this. It has 4 ports, a pressure port which is what hooks to the pump, a return which hooks to the resevoir, and right and left hand turn ports. There are 3 basic things to watch for on orbitol valves. Open vs. closed center, load vs. non-load reacting, and displacement.
Open center is what you want for your trucks steering system, a closed center valve will not work, your pump will burn up.
Load reacting is when you will feel feedback in the steering wheel when your tires hit something. 99% of equipment are non-load reacting. Mostly only vehicles meant for some street time or higher speed stuff got load reacting valves. Most say you get no road feel through a non-load reacting but I still get normal return to center and all that through my non-load reacting valve. If I had a choice between the two, I'd take non-load reacting.
As far as displacement, this is the amount of fluid the oribtol will displace during one revolution of the valve or steering wheel. To figure out what you want you find the volume that your ram takes from go to full lock one way to full lock the other way. Say this is 24 cubic inches of fluid. Now you need to find how many turns lock to lock you want, most people go for 2.5 to 3.5. I went for 3 and it's worked well for me. So, say you want 3, you divide 24 by 3 and get 8. So you need an orbitol that displaces 8 cubic inches of fluid per revolution.
Then only thing the left is mounting, you will need a "steering column" for the orbitol which is basically an adapter that goes from the course spline on the valve to a fine spline you can put a steering joint onto.
-Ram
As far as the ram goes, you will want a double ended ram. Some use single ended but it's just not that great for a full hydro system since they use a different displacement between left and right sides so you will have quicker steering on one side than the other as well as more steering force on one side than the other.
For a full hydro system with a good pump you will want a roughly 2.5-3" bore ram with at least a 1.5" shaft and 6-10" of travel depending on if you use stock tie rod location or high steer or behind the axle high steer. You can find your volume of displacement by taking the volume of the ram body and subtracting the volume of the ram shaft, this will give you the internal volume. This is what you use to determine the displacement of orbitol valve you need.
-Pump
You will want either a high flow PSC P-Pump setup that can flow 3-4GPM or a TC style pump that flows the same. You can modify a stock pump the west texas way but it will burn the pump up quickly since it is not designed for the pressure or flow. I've run a KRC TC style pump at 3.5 gpm for 2 years now without problem. You WILL want a good filter and massive cooler. I run a B&M trans cooler with fan on my steering system and a B&M remote engine oil filter for my steering. It uses a regular small block chevy spin on oil filter, works great at keepign the pump clean and happy.
-Hoses
Use only hydraulic hoses rated at your pump pressure (1500-2000psi). Once everything is installed, measure your hoses and what ends you need (straight, 45*, 90*, etc) the orientation you need on them, and take that to a hydraulic hose shop and have them made. Most steering systems use a -6 JIC fitting on the pressure sides and all ram lines and a -10 JIC on the return to the resevoir.
