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school me on hooking the b up

SUPERSUB87

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i just bought a kicker kx200.2 2 channel amp off of a guy for $100. it's rated at 70wx2 rms at 4 ohms. i want to bridge it so it's at a good 200wx1 for my 12" jl audio 12wo. so how do i do it, and can a bridged amp support more than one sub and how to you connect two?:confused:

right now my system is pretty skanky. nothing fancy. just going to put some 3.5" kickers to replace the dash speakers in the front and some 10x4's in the back and hook them to my headunit amp. then run the preamp out to the kicker to power my 12", and hook- up my self- amplified 10" kenwood right behind the front bench for some added punch. :doah: :( :doah:

that's now. later i will have two old school 12" kicker comps with a audiobahn 1200w amp, my infinity 6.5's, and some 6x9's added on to the current system i have accumilated. and run the 6x9's and infinitys with a sony 4 channel amp and keep the 3.5's and 10x4's on the headunit.:D
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
i just bought a kicker kx200.2 2 channel amp off of a guy for $100. it's rated at 70wx2 rms at 4 ohms. i want to bridge it so it's at a good 200wx1 for my 12" jl audio 12wo. so how do i do it, and can a bridged amp support more than one sub and how to you connect two?:confused:

right now my system is pretty skanky. nothing fancy. just going to put some 3.5" kickers to replace the dash speakers in the front and some 10x4's in the back and hook them to my headunit amp. then run the preamp out to the kicker to power my 12", and hook- up my self- amplified 10" kenwood right behind the front bench for some added punch. :doah: :( :doah:

that's now. later i will have two old school 12" kicker comps with a audiobahn 1200w amp, my infinity 6.5's, and some 6x9's added on to the current system i have accumilated. and run the 6x9's and infinitys with a sony 4 channel amp and keep the 3.5's and 10x4's on the headunit.:D
Do not run two different subwoofers, big no-no. You'ld be better off concentrating on getting simpler system to sound good. Use the 12, or the 10, not both. if you need/want more punch, get a pair of matching subs. Also do not run different sized subs, or different enclosure sizes or types at the same time... common mistakes these days. More is not always better. There's a reason top sound quality systems do not run setups like this, they dont work right.

Bridging is merely sharing the output from each channel summed into a single channel. In other words, you end up pulling the pos off one channel of your amp, and the negative off the other channel. This effectively utilizes the output from both channels into a single channel. Power output has the potential to double, depending on speaker impedance.

Here is some good info on how to bridge, and the variables surrounding it: http://www.bcae1.com/bridging.htm

You can run multiple subs off a bridged amplifier, just depends on the speaker imperdances and how you wire them. You casn parallel or series speakers together into a single amplifier channel, its done all the time. Ever seen a setup with a wall of subs... like a dozen or more? You dont think they run an amplifier for each and every one of those subs do you? ;) Again, consult bcae1, it has all the info on speaker impedance that you need to know.

bcae1.com is an excellent reference site for car audio information. If you plan on doing much of this stuff, save it under your favorites.

I suggest fitting larger diameter speakers in the front, wont have much 'up-front bass' using only 3 inch speakers in the front. Ive also never been a huge fan of 4x10's. Surely there's a way you can fit some round speakers in there that are abit larger than 3"...? :D And amplify them. The majority of the sound you hear from your stereo will be coming from your main speakers, not your subs. No sense leaving them unamplified and sounding the 'dirtiest' imo. Headunit amplifiers suck balls, hardcore.

Your later idea, to be frank, is just a mess. How many speakers you plan on running in this thing?? Simple is better, more is (generally) worse. Multiple point sources for your sound to originate from muddy the sound stage and stereo imaging. Its quite popular these days to see show cars with as many speakers stuffed into them as possible. This leads to the notion its a good idea, when in reality sonically speaking its a very bad idea.

In a perfect world, if we had the technology to build such speakers, our stereos would utilize 2, and only 2, speakers. One for the left chaannel, one for the right. Each would play from 20hz to 20khz, no subs, no mids, no tweeters... just one left and one right speaker. Again, if we could build speakers capable of such. This is because, again, the fewer sound sources, you have, the simpler eevrything is, the easier it is to 'get it right'. But we cannot make such speakers, so we settle for having mids, tweeters, etc. But again, just packing as many of those mids and tweets in as possible... not a good idea.

Most people want lots of speakers in order to make it LOUD. Well, there's more than one way to skin that cat. I assure you, the [relatively] simple system Im building would be much much louder than the complicated multiple speaker system you are planning. If you want outpu, dont rely so much on cone area, look into speaker efficiency and power handling.

Ditch the h/u amp idea. Ditch the 3.5's and 4x10's. Ditch the Audiobahn amplifier (ewww). And without a doubt ditch the awful idea of packing so many mediocre speakers into your ride. Simplify, and then work on getting the most you can out of what you have.

Did you guys know the world record for a car stereo was recently broken? Someone has (verifiably) hit over 180 decibels in a vehicle. Nobody had ever hit over 180 before. And he did it... with ONE subwoofer. Dont fall into the habit that you must have a ton of speakers. Again, simply and maximize potential.
 
You need to ride in mine , sounds pretty good . Soundstream 3.5's , and Memphis 4x10's off the headunit with the hpf and lpf set at to keep the highs and mids in the speakers , and the lows in my RF 10's . The front window , and the processor in the head unit makes the front stage sound pretty good to me .

We all can't afford to have the best of everything :thumb:
 
pauly383 said:
You need to ride in mine , sounds pretty good . Soundstream 3.5's , and Memphis 4x10's off the headunit with the hpf and lpf set at to keep the highs and mids in the speakers , and the lows in my RF 10's . The front window , and the processor in the head unit makes the front stage sound pretty good to me .

We all can't afford to have the best of everything :thumb:
Not trying to diss your system at all man, more power to ya for building and en joying it. but there's just no way that system can sound very good to my standards. It will have a drastic lack of midbass, or extremely localizable bass coming from the rear and dragging your sound stage rearward, depending on the actual settings of your subwoofer crossover. And unless you use one of those [semi nifty] Pioneer heads with the mosfet amplifier internal, your main speakers are only getting 12-18 watts max, and will have a large portion of distortion introduced to them while doing so.

I admit it, Im a snob on this stuff. :D Ive heard so many stereos people thought sounded awesome, only to find extreme defficiencies in them. But hey, the owner likes it, that's the main thing. Not every stereo has to please me. Id venture to say most people wouldn't even recognize the cues I listen for, or the problems I tend to hear in systems. But then go sit in a true SQ car, one with 10" midbass speakers in the front doors running with GOBS of headroom off their amplifier, with properly placed mids down in the kicks and tweets set up to blend with the rest of the system just right, with subs only playing up to 50hz or so... If you sit and do some critical listening in a system like that, you'll soon start to hear these holes in other systems that I am describing.

Again, no offense to you or your system pauly. But if we wanna discuss whats really right and wrong, might as well cut right to the chase. Deciding to compromise and use a h/u's amp, or small stock sized speakers is okay to do, heck I do this sort of stuff sometimes too. But its best to at least understand that you ARE making a compromise.

Cheers.
 
We are making a compromise driving our rigs anyway . The seating location , and acoustics are way off from a car .

I had to move my rear speakers to the backseat area to get my soundstage to sound proper to my ear , as well as baffle everything and shoot some "right stuff" in the panels to help seal it off from the road after I trimmed my rear fenders .

I can appreciate your sense of right from wrong in audio . I am a son of a Broadcast Engineer , and grew up with RF , video , and audio in a studio setting . If I had my way , we would all have racks in the back and some real amps and studio monitors .
 
Yes, vehicle's make horrible listening rooms, good point. Varying surface angles, shapes, materials, reflective mat'l vs absorptive, etc etc. No getting around most of that, but we can make the best of it. Placing mids (and/or tweets) down in the kicks helps equalize pathlengths, for example. "Crushing" the interior would be another example, but one I hate. lol

So long as we realize the compromises, we can adjust for them in some ways. Vehicle interiors are actually quite good for bass response... having a nice transfer function in the subbass region. This is why we can run a much higher tuning point in car audio than you can in home audio (among other reasons), and why its so much easier to get eye-watering bass out of a car system than a home setup. Understand the environment, the equipment, and your goals. When you accomplish those 3 goals, you can build a truely inspiring car system. :)

Cheers.
 
ok thanks a lot for the website, i was referred to it before, but forgot the name of the site. tonight i bought the sony 4 channel amp that will power my 6.5's and 6x9's, but that isn't going in for awhile since i have to buy/ build a housing for the 6.5's. So for now it will just be the 3.5's and the 10x4's running off of the headunit.

one more question. so if i bridge the kicker amp that has a rms of 200w 4 ohm bridged and i hook up two subs does that mean that there is 200w going to each sub or are they splitting the power????? that is what has always confused me.
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
ok thanks a lot for the website, i was referred to it before, but forgot the name of the site. tonight i bought the sony 4 channel amp that will power my 6.5's and 6x9's, but that isn't going in for awhile since i have to buy/ build a housing for the 6.5's. So for now it will just be the 3.5's and the 10x4's running off of the headunit.

one more question. so if i bridge the kicker amp that has a rms of 200w 4 ohm bridged and i hook up two subs does that mean that there is 200w going to each sub or are they splitting the power????? that is what has always confused me.
The speakers will divide up the power. You bridge an amp to create 1000 watts and hook 4 speakers to it, each speaker will receive 250 watts, for example.
 
alright thanks for the all the info. now i know what i need and what i don't.
 
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