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School me on offroad lighting

I use the 7 circuit weatherproof fuse panel. Ive got mine mounted on the driversside fender. One thing I wish I wouldve done was gotten the one that had the majority of the circuits KEY ON, instead of CONSTANT On. There are things I dont need power running to all the time. So, keep this in mind as well. I had my TACH ran off a CONSTANT ON wire and it actually drew down my battery, dunno why, but it did. Also with the fuse panel in the engine bay and all my extra stuff connected to it, if I have any issues, its easy to get to the fuse panel and pull fuses to check for stuff. I want to leave the OEM wireharness and fuse panels alone so I dont have to be crawling under my dash to pull wires and fuses
 
How did you hook up the additional fuse panel? I'm looking to do this but haven't researched it much. I have a winch I'm about to add plus a bunch of lights soon I hope
 
Its been awhile. But I believe there is one wire that goes to a KEY SWITCHED wire or in your factory fuse panel, a GROUND and a wire going to the battery. It has its own built in relay, etc.
 
So you just used that and ran it from there. What kind of fuse box did you use? Or should I ask do you remember where you got it from
 
Here's some pics of my wiring. Not really professional, but it works. It's easy to service. It's also easy to get wet when mudding with deep water. So far no blown fuses due to water, but I think I'm going to mount an ammo box somewhere for any under hood wiring and relays. If you read Ryoken's build thread, he has an incredible setup under hood for major relays and such. Weather-proof and all. Way beyond my capabilities, just awesome!

First pic: Dayliters on top of stinger: Powered through relay and switch.

Hellas on the bottom: powered through relay and switch from
high beams.

Amber fogs: Powered through relay and switch from low beams,
soon to be switched directly due to headlight relay!

Second pic: Relays and fuse block. Not an optimum location, will upgrade
later!

Third pic: Isolater: Works well for me so far.

Fourth pic: Feeble attempt to show switch locations. The red switch is for
TC lockup.

I also use a relay for some add-on reverse lights. Right now they are switched on with reverse switch. I will add a manual on switch later.

Here you go, hope I'm not embarrassing myself, but it works well so far!

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I just used the Painless wiring 7 circuit weatherproof fuse panel.

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Here is a bad pic. But the fuse panel is directly beside the washer fluid tank and behind the isolator mounted on top of the wheel well. Behind the battery, you can see a fuse type device, this is part of the fuse panel as well, that line goes directly to the battery all the way over to the pass. side (pass. has main battery) drivers side has aux , back up battery)
 
That may be the way I end up going. I was in a hurry at the time. I too have a main fuse mounted next to my isolator. I never have the patience to wait for things in the mail. I just went to the local auto parts store and bought what I thought I needed, before thinking about what I needed!

Not great, but here's a couple under hood pics. My main battery is on the pass. side, with the aux. on the driver's side.

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I think that's the route I go. I have alot accessories I want to run plus redo all of my gauges.
Side note: I love your bumper badmix. Is that custom made? That's exactly what I'm wanting my bumper to look like
 
dfl701 said:
I think that's the route I go. I have alot accessories I want to run plus redo all of my gauges.
Side note: I love your bumper badmix. Is that custom made? That's exactly what I'm wanting my bumper to look like
Click to expand...

Check the for sale section. its up there. Im going a diff. route. :D
 
Badmix, im planning on doing the exact same thing you need with my m1008. Im looking to keep it stock looking so i dont want lights sticking out, and i need floods for the beach at night. Got any pics of how you mounted those lights behind the grill and how strong of floods can you put back there? Im also interested in those hidden reverse lights
 
Dabba said:
Badmix, im planning on doing the exact same thing you need with my m1008. Im looking to keep it stock looking so i dont want lights sticking out, and i need floods for the beach at night. Got any pics of how you mounted those lights behind the grill and how strong of floods can you put back there? Im also interested in those hidden reverse lights
Click to expand...

The CUCV's have the perfect light mounting location -- assuming you take out the blackout light and the slave connector.

Here's my M1009 (since sold it, sniff) whilst I was painting it:

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You could easily fit bigger lights; that's just what I happened to have. Stealthy, simple to mount on the radiator support, and didn't require cutting the grille up at all.

-- A
 
nah, im not removing the military hardware. Im trying to keep it stockish. I wanna mount them up right where badmix has em or toward the center of the grill though
 
Dabba said:
Badmix, im planning on doing the exact same thing you need with my m1008. Im looking to keep it stock looking so i dont want lights sticking out, and i need floods for the beach at night. Got any pics of how you mounted those lights behind the grill and how strong of floods can you put back there? Im also interested in those hidden reverse lights
Click to expand...

I just drill a hole below the opening and mounted an L bracket and mounted the lights. My lights were 4" and they set in the opening and had some adjustment to them.

The rears were easy. Just mounted to something back there, cant remember off hand. I think there was some existing frame hole. I wanted them up out of the way. Cant see them unless your looking .lol
 
Hate to go against the grain here since so far everyone seems to be all for a kagillion lights BUT....

With today's lighting technology IMO you'd be better off saving up and investing in some HID's or an LED light bar. I've seen the LED light bars beginning to pop up more and more lately and they're really nice... they put out a TON of light and are easy to wire and can be mounted up out of the way.

Just a thought though... instead of 14 weak lights invest in 2 HID's or 1 LED light bar.
 
I plan on buying some cheap lights an doing an HID conversion off eBay to have some super bright lights on the front!!
 
LED light bars

Avery4jc said:
With today's lighting technology IMO you'd be better off saving up and investing in some HID's or an LED light bar. I've seen the LED light bars beginning to pop up more and more lately and they're really nice... they put out a TON of light and are easy to wire and can be mounted up out of the way.

Just a thought though... instead of 14 weak lights invest in 2 HID's or 1 LED light bar.
Click to expand...

I did some searching and I think that when I finally get around to doing bumpers and lighting I will pick up one or two of these LED light bars. The amount of light they put out vs. the small amount of amps they pull is awesome. I won't have to worry as much about straining the electrical system, and the long life and durability of these light bars looks to be pretty great because of the LED's. Kudos to Avery for mentioning this...:waytogo:
 
i have 4 of mine on.later ill do 6 on the roof and 2 pointing back wards.the hellas are hids and avery hids are about 600 a pop btw

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