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School me on oil pan gaskets

dremu

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Also on the bigblock, should prolly replace it all while I'm in there.

I see they come in different kinds, more than one piece, one piece, etc etc.

What's good, what's not, what kinda goop do I use, etc?

-- A
 
always used one piece units when i've done them, and a small amount of silicone on the pan to hold the gasket in place on installation and a small amount on the bottom of the block at the mating surface... a thin film...
 
X2, the only pan gasket on my old small block I had no trouble with was the one piece rubber gasket. It has steel inserts in the bolt holes to keep it from being squeezed too hard, and the set I got even came with new bolts. Pretty sure it was Moroso, but I'm not 100% on the brand.

Rene
 
i have always used the 2 piece units, i usually just buy cork cause its cheapest. and i goop the living crap out of it, both sides!! that way they dont leak.....ever.
 
1 piece, and put a dab of silicone where any 2 pieces of metal come together, like the timing cover and the rear main cap, other than that install it dry.
 
I tried using the 4 piece cork sets that you can get for about $5 cause it was cheap. after about 2 hours of messing with it I went back to the parts store and got a one piece. dont know the brand but it came with new oil pan bolts, the one piece gasket and some plastic studs that you screw into the corners to hold the gasket and oil pan in place while you put the rest of the bolts in. cost about $30 and took 15 minutes to put in and doesnt leak. thats the only way Ill do it from now on. the extra money was well worth it to me.
 
i used the Felpro Permaseal I think. Its a blue rubber one piece with the inserts. It even came with these nifty little plastic things that thread into the corner bolt holes. Then you slide the gasket over them and then the pan. They hold the gasket and pan in the proper place so you can bolt it into place under the truck without trying to hold the pan up while threading bolts. They worked so well, they are in my tool bag now.
 
I've built and had many motors a part and put them together.
I always use permatex high tac spray for my gaskets and let them sit for a day or two. Never have a leak even with the cheap gaskets.
You still need the silicone at the timing chain edges and at the back corners of the rear main but it works awesome as long as you don't over toque them and do them even and alternate tightening like a set of heads.
Also, use the high temp silicone (orange or red). Rubber gaskets should basically be put on dry or they'll push out. If you really want extra protection, you can also run a small bead of the silicone on the outside edge after tight.
 
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