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School me on shopping for hard and soft tops please

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K5dreamer

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I did a search, and the only thread on this was from 2001, so I figured Id look for a more up to date answer.

I'm currently working on a guy who is selling a 1970 Blazer, and may even want my wrecked M1009 as a partial trade. the problem is I have no garage, and a girlfriend who has sickle cell anemia, so I require the ability to close off the truck and turn on the heater in the fall/winter (she caught pneumonia in Virginia Beach, in august, with 96 degree temps because she went swimming in the cooler water, and her fingertips turn blue regularly in spring and fall) and he has no tops for the truck.

Just wondering how hard those were to come by, hard top preferred, but rag top better than nothing, I did have a wrangler for a while in Vermont and got by.

There are a few really rough first gens in the states near me, any thoughts on making offers to those sellers for just the tops off their vehicles?

Anything to look for on the tops (I don't even know if they are steel or fiberglass) like rust or cracks or anything?

Also, what the expected going rate for these things were so I can use that in my negotiating process.

Thanks all.
 
I am in Northern California and I see a used hard top pop up on Craig's list once or twice a month in my area. They range from $200 to some guy wanting a ridiculous $1200 right now.

Things to consider when getting a used hardtop. Check the seals. Around the windows could need replacing. Then you have seals between the hard top and body. Then there are drip catchers at the top of the door frame to keep water from getting in between the top and door/window. Then there are even more seals and would recommend looking at lmctruck.com to get a good idea of how many, though most people would go elsewhere to actually buy them.

Also check the back hatch. It is likely to bow and crack near the hinges after years of use/abuse. I think I have seen one place online that sells just a new hatch for $400.

There are also two types of hardtops, single or double wall. I have single and it provides interior lights whereas the double does not...I believe. Most seem to recommend the single wall. Single is also easier to bolt in to the body iirc.

Now for soft top, I have heard you can get em used, but have never actually seen one, as I would buy one if it was in great condition.

But here is where you get a new one for about $900. http://www.softopper.com/chevy-blazer-gen1-soft-top-truck-cap-details.aspx

Hopefully someone can chime in on staying warm in the blazer, as I have only had one for 5 months and live in a very moderate climate.

Good luck :thumb:
-jacob
 
Factory tops are fiberglass and weigh around 350Lbs. A complete set of replacement seals for a hardtop will run you around $500. The rear hatch condition is critical since they are not available in the aftermarket. If the hardware is missing or the corners are blown out near the latches, you are in for a real headache.

The Softtopper solution is probably the best "off the shelf" solution out there. Depending on how desperate you are for lots of heat you can try to get them to make you one with a thermal liner incorporated. That should help retain more heat.

Make sure that your heater system is in good working order and that the dash tubes are all connected and routed properly.

Last resort would be to add some aftermarket seat heaters (seat cushion and backrest) and then have the factory upholstery reinstalled. There is nothing quite as luxurious as a warm seat on a cold day. I've had them in a couple of cars I've owned, and I will absolutely have them in my K5 when I finally get that far in my build.

The most important thing in retaining heat is keeping the drafts out. Patch any oddball holes in the firewall, make sure your door seals are intact, vent windows seal correctly, etc.


-G
 
ekajkrats said:
Hey Greg,

Here is an aftermarket rear hatch http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BRH6972. Not sure how good it is though and it costs a pretty penny.


-jacob
Click to expand...


Yes...but what if the rods and latches are damaged, or the T-handle is missing? I'm not aware of anyone offering reproductions for those critical parts.... and jeez, just look at the kind of money you'd be spending to get a crummy hardtop properly sealed with a working tailgate ($1000+) :yikes:

Without any sliding windows or a rear window that rolls down, it ends up being a really noisy, hot interior most of the year. Once you drive a 1st Gen "al fresco" on a sunny day.... it's almost impossible to find the will to install the hardtop ever again. :pimp:


-G
 
A few of my personal goals for the future:


1. Take a open-top drive on a crisp fall day with the family and look at all the changing leaves, maybe stop at a pumpkin patch and pick up a few for carving. Fold down the back tailgate and sip some hot apple cider with my wife and little boy.

2. Take an open-top drive on a snowy day before Christmas with the seat heaters on full blast, hats, gloves and scarves and go to a local tree farm to pick out a great tree for the house. Cut it down and strap it to the rollcage for the drive back into town. Wave at all the folks who are staring at us like we're living in some kind of Normal Rockwell photograph. Fold the back tailgate down and sip some hot cocoa with my wife and little boy.

3. Moab 2019 - 'Nuff Said. :waytogo:


-G
 
Beautiful goals Greg!

My "little boy" is 6 now - and last time the blazer was running he was 6 months! Dang I need to get that thing done!
 
Greg - thanks so much for all the tips, including going the extra mile based on my girlfriends needs, never even thought of putting in seat heaters. :waytogo:

and love your idea of topless in snow getting the tree. Although I wound up driving a wrangler in vermont in winter in a snowstorm with no top on... I have to admit, that was the coldest I have ever been, that includes polar plunge for the special olympics, and cliff diving in snow runoff. :eek1:
 
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