Ive done a few searches but cant find what Im lookin for. I know that its the starter drive cause Ive had one do it before but I pulled the starter and had my dad do it for me. only problem is that dad doesnt come to college with me so Im on my own this time. Ive heard it was easy but I would like to know what Im doing before i dive into it. Thanks.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
school me on starter drive replacement
- Thread starter big dan
- Start date
xpndbl3
1/2 ton status
i got a replacement starter for $22 from autozone, that starter drive would have to be SUPER cheap in order for me not to unbolt one and bolt up a reman instead
burban89
1/2 ton status
For the price of a drive and the labor to do it your better off getting a reman from the part store.
Is that $22 after you returned the core?
I had another starter with a bad solenoid so I swapped solenoids and it started 2 times before it quit. Ive got a friend that I replaced head gaskets for and didnt charge and he said he would buy me a new starter so thats pretty sweet. thanks for the advice.
I had another starter with a bad solenoid so I swapped solenoids and it started 2 times before it quit. Ive got a friend that I replaced head gaskets for and didnt charge and he said he would buy me a new starter so thats pretty sweet. thanks for the advice.
xpndbl3
1/2 ton status
yea with giving them the core right away
xpndbl3
1/2 ton status
Starter drive
I am assuming you have an OEM Delco starter and not a modern gear-reduction type?
In regard to the prices over rebuilt starters - they usually have the cheapest crap available inside of them. So yes, they are cheaper -in cost and quality.
If you were to go that route, you can buy a brand-new Chinese gear-reduction starter for $85 that will outperform, and outlast any cheap rebuilt Delco.
If you choose to fix your own starter - you can buy an OEM type drive, or an optional HD drive with extra rollers inside of it. To replace, like anything, yeah it's easy when you know what you're doing.
Here's a general guide to doing it - but hey, I'm not sitting here with the starter in my hand - so I might miss a few things.
Pull the solenoid assembly off - by removing all wire connections and two mounting bolts - and then rotate a bit to unlock, and pull off. You can later "renew" the solenoid if you desire. It has reversible contacts inside that you can flip over and get added life out of it.
Pull the back cap off the starter housing via two long bolts.
Pull the housing off the armature.
Get the starter-drive stop unlocked. It should be three-piece - an outside collar, an inside collar, and a little snap-ring.
Unbolt the the front armature bearing support - via two or three small bolts. then, pull the armature and drive out. Drive will slide off the armature.
big dan said:
I am assuming you have an OEM Delco starter and not a modern gear-reduction type?
In regard to the prices over rebuilt starters - they usually have the cheapest crap available inside of them. So yes, they are cheaper -in cost and quality.
If you were to go that route, you can buy a brand-new Chinese gear-reduction starter for $85 that will outperform, and outlast any cheap rebuilt Delco.
If you choose to fix your own starter - you can buy an OEM type drive, or an optional HD drive with extra rollers inside of it. To replace, like anything, yeah it's easy when you know what you're doing.
Here's a general guide to doing it - but hey, I'm not sitting here with the starter in my hand - so I might miss a few things.
Pull the solenoid assembly off - by removing all wire connections and two mounting bolts - and then rotate a bit to unlock, and pull off. You can later "renew" the solenoid if you desire. It has reversible contacts inside that you can flip over and get added life out of it.
Pull the back cap off the starter housing via two long bolts.
Pull the housing off the armature.
Get the starter-drive stop unlocked. It should be three-piece - an outside collar, an inside collar, and a little snap-ring.
Unbolt the the front armature bearing support - via two or three small bolts. then, pull the armature and drive out. Drive will slide off the armature.
so which do you think would be better? I looked and the starter drives are only like $7. would I be better off to replace that part of my oem starter or get a cheap reman? honestly I cant really afford even an $85 starter. since my friend is going to buy me one Im gonna go ahead and get a reman but Id at least like to have one good spare to keep around.
re-drive it...
I like to KEEP the starter that meshes good with my flywheel on the engine it belongs on--too often I buy a cheesy rebuilt starter,and have to shim it endlessly ,or file down the nose to get it to mesh halfway decent with the flywheel..so I usually jusy put a new starter drive in,(which is about the only thing I've had fail on GM starters BTW)..unless it needs an armature or bushings,I dont buy a rebuilt..I have better luck with junkyard used starters than some of the "rebuilts" I've bought!..
You can toss in a new set of brushes, and a new solenoid while your at it if desired..brushes are cheep,but solenoids can be almost as much as a rebuilt starter,so I usually re-use them if they were working ok..you can buy a new "cap" and guts for the solenoid cheaper than the whole unit too,"Standard" Blue-Streak Ignition makes them,among others..its not hard to tear a starter down and rebuild it..get a junk one and practice,soon you'll be an expert!.
I like to KEEP the starter that meshes good with my flywheel on the engine it belongs on--too often I buy a cheesy rebuilt starter,and have to shim it endlessly ,or file down the nose to get it to mesh halfway decent with the flywheel..so I usually jusy put a new starter drive in,(which is about the only thing I've had fail on GM starters BTW)..unless it needs an armature or bushings,I dont buy a rebuilt..I have better luck with junkyard used starters than some of the "rebuilts" I've bought!..
You can toss in a new set of brushes, and a new solenoid while your at it if desired..brushes are cheep,but solenoids can be almost as much as a rebuilt starter,so I usually re-use them if they were working ok..you can buy a new "cap" and guts for the solenoid cheaper than the whole unit too,"Standard" Blue-Streak Ignition makes them,among others..its not hard to tear a starter down and rebuild it..get a junk one and practice,soon you'll be an expert!.
thanks. I think Im gonna go pick up a new drive and give it a shot. Ive got 3 that dont work at the moment so Ive got plenty to practice on. one of them is brand new but the drive gear is stripped so the guy gave it to me. I think Im gonna stick a new drive in it and see how it works. thanks again.
practice ...
It'll take some time,but you'll soon learn how to take a starter apart and rebuild it..you'll likely find getting the brushes over the armature,and removing the collar that holds the starter drive on the most difficult tasks--not that hard,having 3 hands would help though!..
I put a rebuilt starter drive in my 6.2--when I bought it,it would spin and not turn the engine over,you had to try several times to get it to "grab"..a rebuilt starter was over 110 bucks exchanged,and even just a new drive was 70+ bucks-
-I found a rebuilt one at Napa for 35 bucks,and it went in much like the usual small block starters do..it works great now..
(the starter had a "Delco Rebuilt" sticker on it,looked new--guess they dont replace the drive unit,or maybe mine was abused by someone using staring fluid??)..
I have starters piled up like cordwood in my shop,from all the motor swaps and vehicles I've parted out..I'd guess 2 or 3 are ready to use,the rest all need starter drives or caps for the solenoid (they crack like peanut brittle when you try unscrewing the positive cable
)..I also have a lot of alternators that still charge ,but likely need diode trios or regulators..I might see what the core places are paying for cores and weed out some of them,so I can recover some storage room in my shop..
It'll take some time,but you'll soon learn how to take a starter apart and rebuild it..you'll likely find getting the brushes over the armature,and removing the collar that holds the starter drive on the most difficult tasks--not that hard,having 3 hands would help though!..
I put a rebuilt starter drive in my 6.2--when I bought it,it would spin and not turn the engine over,you had to try several times to get it to "grab"..a rebuilt starter was over 110 bucks exchanged,and even just a new drive was 70+ bucks-
-I found a rebuilt one at Napa for 35 bucks,and it went in much like the usual small block starters do..it works great now.. (the starter had a "Delco Rebuilt" sticker on it,looked new--guess they dont replace the drive unit,or maybe mine was abused by someone using staring fluid??)..I have starters piled up like cordwood in my shop,from all the motor swaps and vehicles I've parted out..I'd guess 2 or 3 are ready to use,the rest all need starter drives or caps for the solenoid (they crack like peanut brittle when you try unscrewing the positive cable
)..I also have a lot of alternators that still charge ,but likely need diode trios or regulators..I might see what the core places are paying for cores and weed out some of them,so I can recover some storage room in my shop..Just got it finished. pretty easy, the only trouble I had was getting the little snap ring off but its done and starts great. only cost $6 and some change too. oh and I had to walk 1 1/2 miles and back to the parts store cause all my friends were in class but I saved some gas. thanks for your time and advice.
thanks for your time and advice.
Glad I could help!..
Thats cool!--now you know how to fix a starter!.
.not that much goes wrong with GM ones,other than the drive unit and solenoid..
Many GM vehicles I've owned seemed to have a thermometer built into the starter drive--they would start fine all year ,except when it dropped below freezing--then the starter drives would just spin,and not engauge the flywheel!..nothing worse than that happening every morning when your late already!..I used a propane torch to "thaw" mine out a good many times,until I got around to swapping a new drive in!..
Thats cool!--now you know how to fix a starter!.
.not that much goes wrong with GM ones,other than the drive unit and solenoid..Many GM vehicles I've owned seemed to have a thermometer built into the starter drive--they would start fine all year ,except when it dropped below freezing--then the starter drives would just spin,and not engauge the flywheel!..nothing worse than that happening every morning when your late already!..I used a propane torch to "thaw" mine out a good many times,until I got around to swapping a new drive in!..
