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school me - what axles and gears are these? *pics*

All good questions - all answered many times. The answers are as far away as the search button.
 
my bad...i get carried away. trying to learn all this stuff, and it gets confusing. ....the search for knowledge continues....with the search button
 
dieselndixie said:
What about finding a truck similar to this:

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2237506394.html

And just buying it for the axles? good idea? I did a search to find what specific models had the axles I want....couldnt find one. Anyone made a chart or something? I dont know what to search for.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea, you can take the axles off and scrap the rest. The scrap yard will pay you for the steel. (check with the CK5 brothers to see if they want stuff too)
I couldn't see your gear numbers in the pix. If you wipe off the ring gear there is a series of numbers stamped on the side. 1 number is the number of teeth on the ring, the other is the number of teeth on the pinion gear. Divide the big number by the little number to get the gear ratio.
Look at my thread, I posted up 2 ways to determine the gear ratio.:waytogo:
 
thanks, they turned out to be 3.42 gears. I think that since my goal is to be running a 4" lift with 35s....I am going to hold off, save up, and try to find a dana 14bff for the rear, and a dana 60 for the front. with the goal to find matching 4.10 or 4.56 gears. axles, lift, tires at the same time.
 
That particular truck looks like 2wd. But something like that in 4wd would have axles that would be a direct bolt in. Problem with this plan is that the axles will most likely need new seals, brakes, etc. costing a decent amount.
These will fit if you find them...
73-87 3/4 ton pick up
73-91 3/4 ton burb

For what you have planned though, I'd be looking for a 6 lug 14bsf from an IFS truck (88-90something). You may find one with 3.42s (match the front you already have) for the time being, use it till your 31s wear out and regear both front and rear to 4.56 when the time comes to lift and go to 35s. Only real issue is that the spring perches will need to be moved on that axle.

Or, you could regear both the axles you have now, upgrade the rear to a detroit locker and chromoly shafts. You need to weigh the costs for all this against finding 3/4 ton axles and potentially repairing them and maybe even regearing them as well. Just giving you more things to think about...
 
so now that i took the diff open and drained all the fluid, should i clean it out with anything? do I just rtv the lip and put the case back on?
 
you cna shoot out the housing with brakeclean to get all the scum and scuzz out. rtv the seal. makes sure the seal is even. and on the inside and outside of the bolt holes. or the bolts will weep. don't just do the outter edge is what I'm trying to say. as long as the cover is pretty flat still. a nice even coat will do it.
 
You can hose it down with some brake cleaner or solvent. Than just clean up the gasket surfaces, apply a bead of silicone, and put it back together. There will be a fill plug on the back side. Fill it with gear oil till it starts to run out of that hole, and then put the plug back in.

Martin
 
Yah just clean it out really good with lots of cleaner and clean the rim where the silicon will go also on both pieces. I got this 1 min gasket maker works for up to like 600 degrees and sets and ready to go in a min. In a white can like $7. It works great, ive used it on all kinds of stuff and never had any problems and cant beat the quick set time. My buddy broke off the bolt on his coolant adapter on his intake at the dunes tryng to take out the thermostat, and we just put a good amount of this on their and started it ten min later, no leaks!!! lol never did leak either.
 
As for the axles. I would look for a used up 1973-1980 K20 pickup or Suburban. I usually pay $100 or $200 for them (although with the scrap price going up, people are starting to want more). They come stock with either 3.73:1, 4.10:1, or 4.56:1 gears. The 4.56's are the most rare, and the 4.10's are the most common. 4.56's would be the most desirable for your application. The earlier ones use an external hub Dana 44 front axle which is a weaker design (just the hubs, the axle itself is no different). The middle ones use an internal hub Dana 44, and the later ones use a 10 bolt front axle. There really isn't an advantage one way or the other between a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt. If you like the looks of stock steel wheels (can be dressed up with hub caps), they are very cheap. That offsets the cost of having to swap to 8 lug wheels.

Martin
 
dieselndixie said:
Good info guys.

So far, I dont ever see myself going larger than 35s on this rig. I tow my dirtbikes, I camp, I offroad at our local OHV park, and I like to drive to the coast, our ranch, etc.

I know that I want a 4" lift and 35s. I dont know what order to do everything in. I currently have 90% new Mickey Thompson 31x1050 and black crager wheels. I would like to upgrade to the 3/4 axles so that I have confidence in them, but I dont know if I can lift and tires now, and do axles later? when the tires wear out?

what order should i do all this in. Also, with the 14bsf axle, if I could keep 6 lug wheels, that would be cool....what are the pros/cons of that one? Is there a list somewhere of all the vehicles that have axles that will swap?

p.s. can anyone point me in the direction that I can learn the differences between locking the rear, unlocked, locking front, etc...I dont have a good grasp on all that yet.
Click to expand...

I do pretty much the same thing as you. I use my truck for towing my boat/dirtbikes light 4 wheeling and camping.

I went the 14bolt SF route because I didn't want to change out the 6 lug wheels. I still have the 10 bolt front axle with 5.13's in it. From what I understand the front axle does ok as long as its not locked. The rear axle I stuck a locker in it.

You can see my thread here http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260593
 
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