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Sealing 241 with clocking ring???

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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I know this has been discussed and I'm a regular searcher normally, but I'm hoping to hear from as many people possible as soon as possible. I've got my truck at a shop currently. They built a 700 for me and installed my 241 in a clocked position. I guess it leaks, something I've been afraid of.

Unfortunately it's going to leave a bad taste the owners mouth, having to deal with this. He wants to get it right but was never a fan of the ring to begin with. Is there a secret (other than massive amounts of silicon) to get this thing to seal? The guy has done a lot of work for me and my family in the past, he's not upset, just unsure how much time it's going to take to figure this out.

Thanks all.
 
I'm going to swing by in the morning. I'm getting rides from people ATM cause I don't have a working vehicle. Wish I could stop by now :(
 
Fair enough if that's the general consensus. Is there a trick to putting it on or where? Or just a crapload everywhere.
 
I kinda dread taking my tcase out with the clocking being involve. Here's a copy and paste from a prior post I did on my sealing woes.

I have had some minor leak issues with the clocking ring. I recently removed the transfercase and when I re-installed it I had a significant leak. It took some trial and error, but I found the best method to seal it up. I used the Right Stuff RTV.

I initially installed the ring on the case by running a bead along the mating surface of the case around the 6 holes.

Just before placing the ring, I added dabs of RTV on the bottom of the studs that will bolt the case to the adapter.

With the ring bolted to the case, completely fill the un-used holes with RTV.

Run bead of RTV around adapter mating surface and mounting holes. There is also an inner ring on the adapter that I added RTV to - just a small amount.

Bolt case in place.

What makes it so prone to leak are the extra clocking holes. The mating surfaces of the case and adapter are very thin and in many places the extra holes are probably less than 1/16" from the edge. So it is very easy to have gaps in the RTV. If you just run a bead around the center of the mating surface, you WILL have a leak at the unused hole because all of the RTV will get pushed into the hole and create a gap in the seal in the "problem area". That's why it's necessary to fill the unused holes completely with RTV. Reference picture below:

ClockingRingSealing.jpg


That's what has worked for me.
 
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and thanks Scott. I'll take this post to the shop in the morning. Let him look at it. Thanks for the write up!
 
It would have been easier to clock the t-case by letting air out of the drivers side tires. :D

The ultra black RTV works good.
 
Well, despite having never had to clock one, it appears that there would be a simple solution.
Once you determine which holes in the clocking ring will be used, I would fill the unused holes with RTV leaving a slight amount bulging out on each side.
Let it harden, then bolt it together with normal gasket material.

When you tighten the bolts, the RTV will compress against the metal creating a seal and preventing the gasket material from migrating.
 
I took a look bout 3 hours ago. With the ring bolted to the TC, I can see the threaded holes from the outside. I also didn't realize just how thin the mounting surface is on the TC.

Couple things I noticed.

Clocking ring doesn't appear to be machined flat. As flat as it is, it's nothing compared to the original mounting surfaces. I should have welded up the unused holes and had it surfaced.

Also, the studs really should have a shoulder or something to stop them from going all the way through. When you tighten on the nuts, I had a couple spin and dig into the TC. Not saying I can't hold them in place with an allen while tightening the nuts, it's just a PITA.

Overall it's just one of those parts that can't really get any better. It's not factory, it's not going to fit like factory. I'm completely messing with something that was never meant to be. It will do its job and I'll be happy.
 
I think you are missing something.
You say it can't be made better, but you just got through saying ways it could. Factory parts are the ones you are usually stuck with as they are.

Aftermarket is supposed to be better than factory, or otherwise why have it?

I have never dealt with a clocking ring. Where did this one come from? Sounds like it was not made very well.
It should at least be flat so the gasket will seal better. If I were designing it, I would tap the holes so socket head plugs could be threaded into the unused ones, and would have included some with the kit.

Plus, you can find studs with shoulders, sounds like they would be a good thing. Maybe slightly countersink the piece so the shoulders wound up flush.

I really need to find a picture of one of these things on here somewhere. Sounds like they could benefit from some common sense engineering, like you were suggesting.
 
Best way is to make a gasket with paper gasket material. Only punch the holes you need.
 
The first time I sealed mine up like my first post mentioned, that was with a NP208. Then I swapped to an NP241 and I used the gasket material and that worked well also. The third time I did it when I installed an SYE and I went back to the RTV method in my first post with success again.

I would assume the reason the clocking rings aren't machined flat is a cost/benefit thing. It's possible to seal them as they come, albeit difficult and finicky. So it's a matter of whether they would sell more perfectly machined at a higher price or reasonably flat at a low price.
 
I would assume the reason the clocking rings aren't machined flat is a cost/benefit thing. It's possible to seal them as they come, albeit difficult and finicky. So it's a matter of whether they would sell more perfectly machined at a higher price or reasonably flat at a low price.
Click to expand...

Probably true, but they could set up 4 or 5 on a surface grinder, depending on the size of the grinder, set the depth stop, and just walk away.

The tool and die shop I consult for from time to time has a couple of surface grinders for the little stuff, and a big Blanchard grinder in the back for the big stuff. Pretty much everything that comes out of there is very flat if it should be.

Last call I had up there was a defective limit switch on one of the grinders. Nice part about them, is they setup quickly, and the machinist can be doing other stuff while its working.
 
i unfortunately used a ****ton of RTV... still leaks a lil bit... someday when the 208 blows up ill try to fill the holes in first.
 
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