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Sealing intake

mouse

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After tracking down all the oil leaks on the new motor in May, I changed the intake gasket along with all the other required, leaky ones. After a short time, the front rubber started to push out, just behind the alternator. It eventually got bad enough where it started to leak oil. When I could no longer stand looking at the leak (last weekend) I changed the intake gasket again. A little over a week later, the new gasket is now pushing out, and has started a slow leak.

When I first assembled the engine, I used RTV, and not the rubber pieces to seal the end of the intake. I guess this is the route I will take when I change it again. It must be the higher oil pressure from the high volume oil pump that is contributing to this, but I've never had such a problem on many, many other engines. The PCV valve is working, and in good shape.

Any suggestions?
 
I have never had a problem using RTV sealent on the front and rear. I found that the larger the bead I put the better. Also it took me a few rebuilds to figure out that I needed to coat the bolts holding the intake on with RTV to keep oil from leaking. Just my 02 cents hope it helps.



James
 
all gm intakes should have note in gasket box. ( take end gaskets and put them in the trash. ) just make sure all clean and 1/4" thich bead on ends. also coat bolts with it as thay go into the valley area.
 
DO yourself a favor and use a gasket maker material called "The Right Stuff". You'll wonder why you ever used anything else.
 
I was pretty sure I was going to use RTV this third (and hopefully last) time sealing the intake. I have been using thread sealand on the bolts - The first time I used RTV and a couple still leaked. The second time I used the white teflon thread sealant and had one leak. This last time I used the brown colored thread sealant, and everything is tight....except that darn rubber end piece.

Thanks for convincing me to go the RTV route. I'm not looking forward to draining the coolant, resetting the timing yet another time, but I guess it must be done. Having an oil leak just plain sucks, especially on a new motor.
 
Intake gaskets
Fel Pro Perma torque performance gaskets.. (Unless your using an aftermarket edelbrock manifold then follow their recommendations)

Use CATERPILLAR gasket sealant ... its green in color... 9.50 a can but worth every penny...use it on both sides of the gasket and manifold...

Lastly as the other poster stated use "The right stuff"... skip the chevy rubber end seals...they are notorious for leaking...and blowing out,,, just use a nice thick bead of the right stuff and let it squish out... after if dries you can cut it off cleanly with an exacto

Make sure all surfaces are clean and oil free....

It won't leak if you do it this way...

Believe me...I feel your pain..Ive been there

cam
 
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sweetk30 said:
all gm intakes should have note in gasket box. ( take end gaskets and put them in the trash. ) just make sure all clean and 1/4" thich bead on ends. also coat bolts with it as thay go into the valley area.
:haha: :haha: :haha: My dad worked for GM for 25 years and when he showed me on my first truck he said they had a tech bulletin that said almost exactly that.
 
I second the "Right Stuff" recommendation. That stuff is second to none
 
I bought some "Right Stuff" today....it cost more than the FELPRO intake gasket. It will be well worth it it if everything selas up tomorrow.


Then I'm going to takle the install of the hydroboost system I bought.....
 
TWISTEDJACK said:
:haha: :haha: :haha: My dad worked for GM for 25 years and when he showed me on my first truck he said they had a tech bulletin that said almost exactly that.


I beleive it was worded like this

"discard rubber end seals" and probably recomended some GM P/N RTV sealer
 
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