CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Searched. Still have lift questions

TeK

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Posts
170
Reaction score
0
Location
Greenwood, IN
I have decided to turn my 86 K5 into a road warrior for now because of other stuff. Anyway I am thinking about running the Superlift 8" w/ ORD zero-rates f/r and 3" body lift. Would this allow me to clear 42" Iroks. That is what I'm wanting to run for sure. Also what can you reccomend as far as driveline goes and as far as steering goes. Any help will be great.
 
TeK said:
I have decided to turn my 86 K5 into a road warrior for now because of other stuff. Anyway I am thinking about running the Superlift 8" w/ ORD zero-rates f/r and 3" body lift. Would this allow me to clear 42" Iroks. That is what I'm wanting to run for sure. Also what can you reccomend as far as driveline goes and as far as steering goes. Any help will be great.

whoa nelly. 1st of all, we need more information. When you say you're going to turn your 86 into a "road warrior" I don't know if you're saying "the 86 is gonna be street-only, Im gonna lift and build another rig"... or... "the rig Im lifting, the 86, is going to be on-road only, how do you suggest I lift it". Naturally, pretty different responses would be warranted for either scenario.

2nd, what type of terrain is the rig going to be used for? sand? mud? trails? rocks? all of the above? will it be off-road only or will it see street miles?

3rd. what parts (engine, tranny, tcase, axles) does your rig have now?

answer that junk in a relatively clear manner and I'll answer as best as I know how and we'll go from there? :) you might try doing some searches too. So much info on lifting K5s on this site that general unclear questions like you posted tend to go unanswered.

j
 
alright works for me. The truck was originally a heavy half truck which I assume(we know where that leads though) has 12 bolts f/r. I have a 14 bt for the rear and a front dana 60(if i ever go pick it up). Its a 350 small block w/ what I assume is a 700r4(square pan and the inside cluster(original) has overdrive. T-case I'm not sure about.

The truck is gona be my daily driver. Still not sure if I wana do some muddin w/ it. Another rig will come later after I finish some of my other projects(never enough time right?).
 
TeK said:
alright works for me. The truck was originally a heavy half truck which I assume(we know where that leads though) has 12 bolts f/r.

if its an 86 K5 and the axles are factory, it should be 10-bolt front and rear. There is no 12 bolt front axle... those are rear-end only, though if you're not the original owner other axles could have been swapped in. Just for your own sake, you should check out the tech section here on ck5 and use the "axle identifyer" thing so you know what you have. Other than knowing where you want to be, knowing where your rig is now is pretty much the most important thing to know.

I have a 14 bt for the rear and a front dana 60(if i ever go pick it up).

if you ever want to run 42s, the ff14b / D60 are the axles to have... go get 'em! :)

Its a 350 small block w/ what I assume is a 700r4(square pan and the inside cluster(original) has overdrive.

the 700R4 is a decent transmission, it has the lowest 1st gear of the common GM automatics and it has OD. The greatest enemy of the 700 is heat, for some reason they have a nasty habit of having their lives cut short due to excessive heat. Best mod you can make with a 700 is a big azz tranny oil cooler. B&M makes very nice stacked-plate all-aluminum ones that work great.


T-case I'm not sure about.

not sure if they used the np208 in 1986 or not... thats what my 85 had. At some point they went to either a 231/241. These are all decent cases, but the later is the most desirable. All of them come from the factory with slip yokes on the rear output which is not what you want. Thankfully, slip-yoke-eliminator kits are common for the 31-41.

The truck is gona be my daily driver. Still not sure if I wana do some muddin w/ it. Another rig will come later after I finish some of my other projects(never enough time right?).

if its gonna be purely offroad only and you're going to build another 'wheeler later on... what I'd do is swap the ff14b into your 86, but keep the 10 bolt. Regear the diffs to offset the newt tire size and get them 42s. A 10 bolt front is a decent axle... and driving on a street should be a problem even with tires that size. If thats all its gonna be used for, just save the 60 for the offroad beast.

As far as the amount of lift goes, are you willing to trim fenders? Fitting 42s can be done with as little as 4" of suspension lift if you are... and can require an un-godly amount of lift if you aren't.

j
 
don't really want to trim fenders alot because its still gona go to some shows. i was thinking 8" Superlift w/ ORD zerorates(f/r), and 3" body lift should hit right about where i want. Another question who makes a front shock hoop kit. MOO makes one for the rear that I will be getting hopefully soon.
 
TeK said:
don't really want to trim fenders alot because its still gona go to some shows.

meh, not much useful advice I can really offer then, Im only into trucks that get used like trucks.

i was thinking 8" Superlift w/ ORD zerorates(f/r), and 3" body lift should hit right about where i want.

2nd gens have pretty small wheel well openings, takes a LOT of lift to fit big tires with no fender trimming. Not sure if 8" will be enough for 42s...

Another question who makes a front shock hoop kit. MOO makes one for the rear that I will be getting hopefully soon.

check out Blue Torch Fabworks, they make shock tower kits.

j
 
there will be 12" total lift. maybe 14". i guess I can trim a little. the truck will be used for some mud runs at the local pit but thats it. nothing serious for this rig.
 
the only company who ive seen who makes the hoops for the front is rancho... i am just going to make my own, rancho charges almost 400.00 for the shocks and hoops, but the shocks should be less than 200. its is overpriced, and the material could be obtained for free from a local shop.
 
Top Bottom