searching for brake line tubing (in straight lengths)

[76zimmer]

After looking at the price of a brake line kit for my 76CC I decided it would be cheaper to make my own, as I also want to do some non stock stuff on the system.
So I bought one of these after being able to test one out first hand to make my own lines...

and 25' coiled line is CHEAP, but then you have to straighten it....I mean straight, not wavy! So then you need one of these...for each size tubing you use:

So needing to invest another 160+ for straighteners if I bought coiled line, I would really like to avoid that option and buy long lengths of straight line. The longest I can find is 6' lengths, I'd rather not have 3-4 unions in the line, like to keep it down to one if possible.
Anyone have a clue where to get some 10-12' sections?

 

[FOR MUD]

Even if you could find some, I bet the shipping would make it not worth it. Even the kits have the longer pieces bent in a couple of places to make them shorter for shipping.
Maybe give NAPA a call?

 

[76zimmer]

I've tried the local auto parts joints....72" is max.

 

[FOR MUD]

I did find this.... http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/html/productline/prodcat/hydraulic-tubing.htm Says it comes in 20' Maybe a Hydraulic shop near you carrys or can get.

 

[diesel4me]

6 feet is the usual longest size parts stores carry and those have "ready made" flares and nut fittings already on them..

Seriously,the 25 foot coils are better tubing,flares easier,and can be unrolled to make some good straight sections--the copper-nickel stuff is best,but a bit more expensive--worth it if you do not ever want to replace the lines from rotting again in the future..the coils are cheaper than buying those "ready made" straight sections--which in my opinion are junk and will rot out in 2-3 years in the salt belt ..

Even if you buy new GM brake tubing factory formed,it comes in a box about 5 feet long,folded over to fit in the box...if your doing a frame off show truck restoration then you may as well just buy the stainless steel ones pre bent--but even those will get "tweaked" during the install most likely...

 

[76zimmer]

Well the hydraulic supply is 133$ for a 15' piece....Dam!
I guess I MAW get a 25' roll and a straightener for < that!
I've used the Teflon coated tubing and it holds up good. I won't be driving this truck (76CC) in the salt.

 

[diesel4me]

The copper/nickel tubing flares much easier than the coated stuff,its softer...your hands wont get as many blisters using the flare tool with that stuff..but either are much better than the straight "cheap" ready made lines are...

My friend usually suggests to customers at his shop to opt for that copper/nickel stuff,its easier to deal with,lasts practically indefinately,if they plan to keep the vehicle a long time--so far the only thing he's found he dislikes about it is once a nut fitting is tightened,usually you cant unscrew it again without the tubing wanting to wind up like macaroni,it twists and breaks,it must mushroom inside the nut at the flare once it is tightened ?..--so he leaves a bit of slack at each wheel cylinder or fitting so he can cut the line nut off and flare it back on again if need be.....

 

[skunked]

I just bought a couple 25' rolls of hardline for the build, haven't messed with it yet but I need to figure something out for straightening it. I've read that you can clamp one end in a vise and stretch it....

 

[skunked]

check this out @76zimmer

I bought 3 pairs of sliding door rollers from the hardware store and some grade 8 1/4" bolts. They had metal rollers, but all of them are sized for maybe 1/4" track, so they don't fit 3/8" OD tube very well. I figured the plastic rollers would flare out some and they did. I bolted the rollers on 2.75" spacing to a foot long piece of angle iron (1" as it so happens). Then I attached that in place of my vise jaws. It worked great!

At first I wasn't sure if it was going to do much. My first pulls back and forth hardly changed the tube. The key seemed to be putting enough pressure on the rollers to yield the tube. It's not easy to pull the tube through when there's enough pressure, but it can be done and it worked great once I tightened the vise enough. I think I'll head back and buy some more rollers - I can see where that would really help. I drilled the angle for 3 more, for a total of 9 (4 one one side, 5 on the other) if I fill it out.

 

[CK10]

Buy the coil, straightening is easy.

Grab a scrap of 4x4 lumber and drill a hole in it that your line will fit through TIGHTLY and slide the line in (you might want to add some wax or graphite to the line to help it slide through the wood). Attach the line to something solid that won't move and simply pull the wood down the line to straighten it unrolling as you go to help feed it into the wood block.

The tighter the fit of the line in the block and the longer the block the straighter your line will be.

 

[Deuling]

The copper nickel line is like the best thing ever.

 

[diesel4me]

It has been used in Europe for decades,known as "terne" over there...hardly any brake lines made from that or copper/nickel ever need replacing unless something rubbed through it or it was torn off !.

I've said it before here--I think all steel lines on vehicles should by law be stainless or at least copper/nickel ,especially in the salt belt states..
No doubt countless accidents have been caused by brake line failure during a panic stop situation,some fatalities too I bet..

 

[blazinzuk]

That copper nickel stuff is awesome. Super easy to bend. Super easy to flare

 

[76zimmer]

check this out @76zimmer


View attachment 204269

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that looks like it will work!

Buy the coil, straightening is easy.

Grab a scrap of 4x4 lumber and drill a hole in it that your line will fit through TIGHTLY and slide the line in (you might want to add some wax or graphite to the line to help it slide through the wood). Attach the line to something solid that won't move and simply pull the wood down the line to straighten it unrolling as you go to help feed it into the wood block.

The tighter the fit of the line in the block and the longer the block the straighter your line will be.

Another ingenious idea!
I'll probably try these two ideas!
Thanks Skunked and C10!

It has been used in Europe for decades,known as "terne" over there...hardly any brake lines made from that or copper/nickel ever need replacing unless something rubbed through it or it was torn off !.

I've said it before here--I think all steel lines on vehicles should by law be stainless or at least copper/nickel ,especially in the salt belt states..
No doubt countless accidents have been caused by brake line failure during a panic stop situation,some fatalities too I bet..

I've been saying why do they put stainless exhaust on a truck and not brakelines?
My 99-2500 still has factory exhaust on it

That copper nickel stuff is awesome. Super easy to bend. Super easy to flare

We'll give it a go then!