85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
If you are looking to go crossover you will need either a 2wd box or a 2wd sector shaft (the shaft that the pitman arm bolts to). You need one of these because it has 4 different spots to index the pitman arm and for crossover you need it pointing to the rear of the truck.
Here is what the 2wd shaft loosk like
The 4x4 shaft has one way to put on the pitman arm, is splined only half way around the shaft, and has a notch on the back of it for the bolt that is used in the 4wd pitman arms.
Here is what the 4wd shaft looks like
I decided to swap sector shafts because my box is in good condition and I know that it works good.
1: So to swap the shafts firstjack the truck up and pull off the drivers side tire.
2: Pull out the cotter pin that secires the nut onto the draglinkend that goes into the pitman arm.
3: Take off the nut that connects the draglink to the pitman arm.
4: now some people have there own methods for this part but to get the draglink end out of the pitman arm I take a 2lb hammer and beat the crap out of the pitman arm around the draglink end. It will pop out once you hit it enough.
5: Next unscrew the bolt that is on the back of the pitman arm and remove it.
6: you should know be able to wiggle/tap the stock pitman arm off.
7: now you are ready to pull the sector shaft out.
8: open up the hood and look at the top of the steering box. you will see 4 bolts and a stud/locknut in the middle of them. Remove the 4 outer bolts.
9: Pull up on the cover or you may have to tap the bottom of the shaft with a hammer to get it out but it will just slide right out.
10: Remove the 2 nuts/bolts that connect the steering shaft to the ragjoint and pull the steering shaft to the side.
11: I ended up pulling the box because it was easier and I was tapping the box, so to do this unscrew the 2 hydro lines and the 4 bolts that bolt the steering bo to the frame.
So at this point this is where you are at. Be sure to have a bucket handy when you pull out the shaft be cause alot of fluid will come out.
Here is the 2wd shaft on the left compared to the 4wd shaft on the right
And the 4 bolt holes with the stud/locking nut in the middle
So now you are ready to install the 2wd shaft.
1: Make sure the o-ring is seated correctly into the groove of the cap.
2: simpily slide the shaft into the box makeing sure that the gears mesh, may need a light tap to get it in there.
4: Install the 4 bolts that hold the shaft into the box.
5: now comes the tricky part, time to adjust the shaft. I looked at my 4wd shaft to see how far out the stud was from the locking nut, this will get you pretty close. GM states that you should use a torque wrench to find all these measurements but I found it easier to do it by feel. grab the rag joint and turn it lock to lock like you would with the steering wheel. If you do not feel any resistance when your steering is in the middle. Loosen the locking nut and using a allen in the top of the stud turn it a few turns clockwise, tighten back down the lock nut. Turn the rag joint again from lock to lock until you feel it get tight in the middle. Once you feel it get tight back off the stud just a little at a time locking down the lock nut after each adjustment test until you cant feel it get tight anymore. This is when you know you have it adjusted correctly. Make sure all of the bolts are tight and you are ready to go.
Just bolt the box back up to the frame and reconnect your hoses and steering shaft.
You are now ready for crossover.
Hope this helped some of you some.
See yall on the trails!!!
-Chris
Here is what the 2wd shaft loosk like
The 4x4 shaft has one way to put on the pitman arm, is splined only half way around the shaft, and has a notch on the back of it for the bolt that is used in the 4wd pitman arms.
Here is what the 4wd shaft looks like
I decided to swap sector shafts because my box is in good condition and I know that it works good.
1: So to swap the shafts firstjack the truck up and pull off the drivers side tire.
2: Pull out the cotter pin that secires the nut onto the draglinkend that goes into the pitman arm.
3: Take off the nut that connects the draglink to the pitman arm.
4: now some people have there own methods for this part but to get the draglink end out of the pitman arm I take a 2lb hammer and beat the crap out of the pitman arm around the draglink end. It will pop out once you hit it enough.
5: Next unscrew the bolt that is on the back of the pitman arm and remove it.
6: you should know be able to wiggle/tap the stock pitman arm off.
7: now you are ready to pull the sector shaft out.
8: open up the hood and look at the top of the steering box. you will see 4 bolts and a stud/locknut in the middle of them. Remove the 4 outer bolts.
9: Pull up on the cover or you may have to tap the bottom of the shaft with a hammer to get it out but it will just slide right out.
10: Remove the 2 nuts/bolts that connect the steering shaft to the ragjoint and pull the steering shaft to the side.
11: I ended up pulling the box because it was easier and I was tapping the box, so to do this unscrew the 2 hydro lines and the 4 bolts that bolt the steering bo to the frame.
So at this point this is where you are at. Be sure to have a bucket handy when you pull out the shaft be cause alot of fluid will come out.
Here is the 2wd shaft on the left compared to the 4wd shaft on the right
And the 4 bolt holes with the stud/locking nut in the middle
So now you are ready to install the 2wd shaft.
1: Make sure the o-ring is seated correctly into the groove of the cap.
2: simpily slide the shaft into the box makeing sure that the gears mesh, may need a light tap to get it in there.
4: Install the 4 bolts that hold the shaft into the box.
5: now comes the tricky part, time to adjust the shaft. I looked at my 4wd shaft to see how far out the stud was from the locking nut, this will get you pretty close. GM states that you should use a torque wrench to find all these measurements but I found it easier to do it by feel. grab the rag joint and turn it lock to lock like you would with the steering wheel. If you do not feel any resistance when your steering is in the middle. Loosen the locking nut and using a allen in the top of the stud turn it a few turns clockwise, tighten back down the lock nut. Turn the rag joint again from lock to lock until you feel it get tight in the middle. Once you feel it get tight back off the stud just a little at a time locking down the lock nut after each adjustment test until you cant feel it get tight anymore. This is when you know you have it adjusted correctly. Make sure all of the bolts are tight and you are ready to go.
Just bolt the box back up to the frame and reconnect your hoses and steering shaft.
You are now ready for crossover.
Hope this helped some of you some.
See yall on the trails!!!
-Chris
