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Self tapping tek screw beadlock?

DavidB

DavidB

1/2 ton status
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Redneck tech? Any good? Wheel wrecker? Anyone tried it? Didn't find much w/ Search.
 
it works, a buddy of mine did them to his 16.5 spokes. ran both beads, 48 per tire. just remember to RVT them, or they will leak slowly.
 
How about mounting/dismounting?

I think I like cybrfire's idea of welding a rod inside the bead better. I've actaully been thinking about doing that for a long time.
 
the screws will ruin your beads, you are basicly destroying the tires, you are much better off with the rod on the inside or true beadlocks
 
you run them in behind the bead of the tire. they wont hurt it at all. and have fun trying to dismount the rod style.
 
That's kinda what I was stinkin'. Stauns look awesome, but my wallet thinks they suck. :p:
 
the problem with weld on beadlocks is they only do the out side. and they are hard to balance. the screw style does work. you dont run the screw into the tire at all, but run in behind the tire, the same spot where the rod gets welded on cyberfires method. but with his, you cant remove it to help take off the tire. doing the screw method does make the rim only work with screws from that point forward, but it is still functional. i dont know how well it would work will alloy rims, but it is great for steel. especially 16.5 where there is no safety bead. even a weld on cant lock the inside bead on a 16.5 and there for is not really worth it.
 
Ok....everyone who hasn't done it needs to stop speculating and keep there 2 cents to themselves. I've ran these into my rims. No, it DOES NOT ruin your beads. That would be the drag style where you go through the bead. These go in behind the bead. I'm sure trailer floor screws are great, whatever those are. But my tek screws are fine thread, self drilling, self tapping, and have a shouldered head for better sealing purposes. I just got a set of free rims, painted them, mounted the tires, made a template for locating the screws behind the bead, center punched the location, and ran them in with the nutdriver attachment in a drill. Couldn't have been easier. For the best sealing results, just put a dab of silicone on the threads before you run them in. I used 24 per side of each rim, so 48 per tire. With the 8 spoke rims, I centered a screw on every spoke, then ran 2 screws in between the 8 existing ones. No measuring or rediculous amounts of effort, I just straight eyeballed it. Came out good enough for me. Anyone else know how to double beadlock a set of rims for $25?

I'm sure it is redneck tech, but that suits me fine.:doah: And as far as mounting tires in the future, the screws actually make it EASIER to get the bead to seat and air up the tire. Just suspend the tire and let the weight of the rim seat the bead on the top side. Run the screws in. Then flip it over, and push down on the rim to seat the second bead, and run your screws in. The screws will hold the tire in place so you can air them up. That's kinda the idea behind beadlocks anyway...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=32106

Fastenal part# 32106

Best part about fastenal, is you don't have to pay the shipping if you do a will call pickup at your nearest location.
Click to enlarge
 
Masiony said:
the problem with weld on beadlocks is they only do the out side. and they are hard to balance. the screw style does work. you dont run the screw into the tire at all, but run in behind the tire, the same spot where the rod gets welded on cyberfires method. but with his, you cant remove it to help take off the tire. doing the screw method does make the rim only work with screws from that point forward, but it is still functional. i dont know how well it would work will alloy rims, but it is great for steel. especially 16.5 where there is no safety bead. even a weld on cant lock the inside bead on a 16.5 and there for is not really worth it.
Click to expand...

Never balanced a tire with a beadlock, then again never needed to. I'm rolling on 35's double ripper style beadlock, tires cupped so bad it hurts to look at them. 75 no prob. Alot of my customers mount there tires and throw them on and go, never even look at a balancer.

Majority of the time the pressure on a tire is applied to the outside bead of the tire. Not the inside. Sometimes, you can pop an inner bead. I sure aint saying it will never happen but not as likely.

I agree, the rod method will make it harder to dismount the tire.
 
Found the pirate article for you, since the search is still dead over there.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=340906&page=1&pp=25

They're a bit secretive about the whole thing, since the guy is trying to make money off of the "kit". The kit just consists of the screws which can be hard to find, and the secret number per rim. I used 48 per tire, and I found the screws at fastenal. All the work is done for you. They have some good pics in that thread that go into the concept of it though.
 
cybrfire said:
Never balanced a tire with a beadlock, then again never needed to. I'm rolling on 35's double ripper style beadlock, tires cupped so bad it hurts to look at them. 75 no prob. Alot of my customers mount there tires and throw them on and go, never even look at a balancer.

Majority of the time the pressure on a tire is applied to the outside bead of the tire. Not the inside. Sometimes, you can pop an inner bead. I sure aint saying it will never happen but not as likely.

I agree, the rod method will make it harder to dismount the tire.
Click to expand...

dont missunderstand me, i think all of your products are qualitly. i own and run a few myself. and i know about the stress on the outside bead being more, but on a 16.5 how much does it really take to unseat the inside bead? the screw method would be a good backup to run on the inside. another thing that is good about the weld on kit like you make is that it adds material to the outside of the rim, and i assume only makes it stronger. its like running the rim strengther you make. but as for me, i am running a cheap set of 15x10 on 1 ton stuff and will be running the screws on the outside only. i dont want to grind more than i have to on the calipers. and my rear calipers barely clear as it is. so i am relying on the fact that the outside is usually the one that blows.

i also am running BB's in my tires to balance them.
 
Masiony said:
dont missunderstand me, i think all of your products are qualitly. i own and run a few myself. and i know about the stress on the outside bead being more, but on a 16.5 how much does it really take to unseat the inside bead? the screw method would be a good backup to run on the inside. another thing that is good about the weld on kit like you make is that it adds material to the outside of the rim, and i assume only makes it stronger. its like running the rim strengther you make. but as for me, i am running a cheap set of 15x10 on 1 ton stuff and will be running the screws on the outside only. i dont want to grind more than i have to on the calipers. and my rear calipers barely clear as it is. so i am relying on the fact that the outside is usually the one that blows.

i also am running BB's in my tires to balance them.
Click to expand...

It's all good. No misunderstanding. Brake clearance can certainly be an issue.
 
cybrfire said:
It's all good. No misunderstanding. Brake clearance can certainly be an issue.
Click to expand...
yeah ive got your brakets, and my rims clear by less than an 1/8" in the back.
 
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