Looks like the wheel studs hold the hub and drum together? Is it kosher to hammer the studs through with a big punch?
CK5
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Separating 14bff hub from drum
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Drum goes on back of hub, wheel studs press in through the back holding the drum to the hub just as you suspected. Except for some of the later model stuff, I think gm changed the design so that the drums slip on from the outside.
For removal, I just beat them out with a hammer. Once you get past the knurl they fall out so there is really no need for the punch unless you're worried about thread damage. Ive never damaged one by using just the hammer straight on the end of the stud but you do have to be careful.
For removal, I just beat them out with a hammer. Once you get past the knurl they fall out so there is really no need for the punch unless you're worried about thread damage. Ive never damaged one by using just the hammer straight on the end of the stud but you do have to be careful.
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
Most people prefer a brass drift or hammer, I just put a lug nut on a few threads and give it a couple good whacks then take the lug nut off. Yeah not the best but it works.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Go to an axle shop, pay $5, have them pressed out.
Or, a brass drift and a BFH.
But, if they're good and rusted, yer gonna end up using just a BFH, and installing new ones.
Or, a brass drift and a BFH.
But, if they're good and rusted, yer gonna end up using just a BFH, and installing new ones.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I've noticed that the 'known' factory ones I've hammered, are stout.
2/3 of the 'unknowns' have mushroomed on me.
This leads me to believe that a lot of the aftermarket studs are the weak ones.
For instance, my 14bolt had factory studs, and I just used a BFH.
They were fine.
I hammered on some, on a customers truck.... Had to replace em.
Jm .02
Cool, thanks. I was thinking of just bashing them out and replacing, but the things are $2.50 apiece, so that's like $40. I think I'll start with my plastic hammer, then go to brass punch, then steel punch, then sledge hammer with nut on the end. 
Assuming you don't have a press, which would be the ideal solution.
I thread a lug nut almost all the way on and then whang on that with the sledge.
-- A
I thread a lug nut almost all the way on and then whang on that with the sledge.
-- A
This is where having even a small 20 ton cheap HF press is nice. No swinging a BFH at a punch while holding it with your hand. I use a punch holder anyways so if I do miss I don't break my hand, but stull you can ruin stuff it you miss and hit something.
Well, I soaked the rust for a day, put a lug not on one of the studs and went to town with a sledge. I only hit so hard because I didn't want to miss and ding the hub, but those things are not moving.
Is this what I need?
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
They have a cheaper 12-ton, but people complained about it being flimsy.
Do you just balance the mega drum on that little shelf section while you press, or ... ?
Is this what I need?
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
They have a cheaper 12-ton, but people complained about it being flimsy.
Do you just balance the mega drum on that little shelf section while you press, or ... ?
Agent_Orange
1/2 ton status
yes that what you want, but is the "juice worth the squeeze"? you can get a shop to press out the old and press in the new studs for 1/2 the cost of buying your own press. On the other hand do it wtice and the press has paid for itself... just thinking out loud.
Not sure what tools you have at your disposal.... I use a $40 air hammer with pointed punch. Has made life very easy pressing in and out. Just very noisy.
You need a pair of these rings so you never have to press out studs again to seperate the rotor from the hub, ust unbolt it 
. These can be used with a disc brake conversion or without.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135349&highlight=rotor+spacers
Any intrest in these? I may start machining these to sell. Let me know. There has to be enough intrest in them to make it worth my while. But if we get enough intrest in them....Cost will have to be calculated of course.
. These can be used with a disc brake conversion or without.http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135349&highlight=rotor+spacers
Any intrest in these? I may start machining these to sell. Let me know. There has to be enough intrest in them to make it worth my while. But if we get enough intrest in them....Cost will have to be calculated of course.
You need a pair of these rings so you never have to press out studs again to seperate the rotor from the hub, ust unbolt it
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135349&highlight=rotor+spacers
Any intrest in these? I may start machining these to sell. Let me know. There has to be enough intrest in them to make it worth my while. But if we get enough intrest in them....Cost will have to be calculated of course.
Stupid question, but wouldn't that add extra space between the hub and drum? If the hub mounts in the same spot on the spindle, the drum would be further in relative to the shoes? Maybe I'm not thinking of it right. I like the idea though.
Yeah, there's also the hassle of finding a place, time off work, etc. Plus I'd have the press for other stuff too. It's come up before. I do have to pick up my D60 from the shop, maybe they can do it while I wait.
I have air but no air hammer. Seems like it might be tough to keep the pointy end on the stud while it's pounding? I do have an electric jackhammer,
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Air hammers can be picked up for reasonable if you go that route. I like mine, but yes it is LOOOOUUUUD. But, effective at some things. A press would also be nice, but expensive if you dont use it alot.
Air hammers rock.
Or you need a bigger hammer lol
Or you need a bigger hammer lol
