Serious Thrashers Help?

[quicker]

I want to go 38-40 inch but this means 14 bolt. Can I realistically optimize my 44 and 12 bolt to run 37’s as a compromise?

I actually want to avoid too much lift I really am after lower center of gravity with flex and fender ‘massaging”. Any good flares made for a severally cut 75?

Right now I have a 4inch spring lift properly done, 0 blocks. Running 35’s with stock sheet metal. My guess was cut sheet metal add fender flares, add larger tires, gearing and than lighten up my suspension to get max flex. May go with a 6” lift to get better flex... but I want to stay as low as I can.

I hear revolvers break on our rigs so any other tips for my flex needs would be great. I have greaseable shackles from offroad design. No coil for me I must have solid axel with leafs.
Help.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Can you make 1/2 ton axles survive with 37's? Sure. It depends on how you drive it and how much money you are willing to dump into those axles. Talk with mrk5 about 1/2 tons and 37's.

Going to a 6" lift will undoubtedly reduce flex, not gain it.


Revolvers are not nearly worth it (in addition to the fact you would need a shackle flip and stock spring to run them). While they will allow the tire to drop further, there is almost no weight on that tire and revolvers make about as much sense crawling as IFS

 

[quicker]

Yes the 6” is what I want to avoid but I also wanted larger tires. Clearance is the goal. So it looks like I am basically on the right track

I am willing to spend quite a bit on the axels and I figured incorporating weak links in the hub and in the drive shaft will mean I can be prepared for breakage with minimal issues while on the trail.

So other than the quick disconnect for the sway bar is there any other suspension tricks I can use to gain flex??

Thanks again

 

[quicker]

"May go with a 6” lift to get better flex... but I want to stay as low as I can."

Opps, it was late and I had a few beers when I wrote this. I meant to type lift instead of flex.

 

[ryoken]

If you want more flex, ditch whatever 4" rear springs you have and run a shackle flip and some 56"s or 63"s...

 

[quicker]

I noticed references to spring size and shackle flips the flip idea was one I was going to look into anyway but before I make a move I like to do as much research as I can.

Where can I read up on this flip and does ORD offer a kit for the lift?

It’s not that I’m lazy but I just don’t have the time and if there is a kit it’s always a bit quicker.

What lift does the 56 or 63 inch springs provide if any?

Thanks

 

[ryoken]

Well, if your where a member you could do some searchs on shackle flips, about 1000 threads on em... But yes, ORD does sell them, as well as Kert at DIY4X

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm

No lift from stock 56's.. 63's not sure, don't think so...

you can also gain an inch front and rear by throwing some zero-rates in... ORD has em...

I'm planning on a 37ish tire with 4 EZ rides up front, zero rate and my 1" body lift... probably one of Kerts flips, 6" shackle, zero's and 56's out back...

 

[mrk5]

I think you have plenty of lift already. I run 37s with 2.5" lift. No sway bar in the front. Superlift springs front, Tough Country rear. Here's the best pic I have of the fender trimming:

There are a couple of keys I believe to be successful with 1/2ton axles. First off take care of them. I've rebuilt both axles, new bearings, seals, ball joints, and axles shaft u-joints. I run synthetic fluid. You gotta remember a 12bolt/D44 combo is going to be about 30yrs old at best. You can't just throw them on the trail and expect them to survive.

In the front their are only two things that are not stock. I have Warn premium hubs and an Aussie locker.

In the rear I have a Detroit which is really good with the 12bolt because it is a full case locker. I also have Superior Gear Axles shafts from ORD. It also has a 1350 yoke with u-bolt retainers.

Two things I feel with help 1/2ton axles, low gears and lockers. I feel like the lockers distribute the power of the engine to both axles shafts, not just one. Also the lockers in conjunction with low gears allow you to crawl obstacles. Not necessarily hammer over them.

Now I did strip teeth off the ring gear and pinion at Blazer Bash last year. I was doing what I always say you should avoid with 1/2tons, trying to bounce and hammer my way up an obstacle. Here's the pic:

I was able to limp it back to town, about 15mi IIRC. I don't think I'd been able to do that without the Detroit and Superior shafts. I think either the case or axle shafts would have been trashed in the process.

I do feel there were a number of contributing factors. First off the shop in Moab said they didn't think the gears had been setup properly when the lockers was installed by the mechanic back home. I was also running just 3.73 gears and no front locker. With my setup now, I think I could do it no problem.

I'd love to have allow shafts in the front, but they are pricey.

 

[quicker]

Thanks so much for all the info. I think I need to become a full member to get all the good stuff.

Thanks.