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Setup, honest opinon...

Sqeejo

Sqeejo

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 5, 2008
Posts
442
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Location
Lubbock, TX
Okay so I am about to tear down doth axles, (staying with the 10-bolts, no 1-tons here without at least a grand each or more) and I was wanting some input on setup. I haven't got my lift or tires on, but they are coming right before Christmas so I wanted to be setup for them while i have the axles apart and doing upgrades.

I will be running:

4 inch lift
1 inch body lift
35" BFG Mud terrains
10-bolts front and rear
C-moly shafts from ORD
4.11 gears
front open diff, rear locker(undetermined)
Stock 350 with a few go fast goodies (est 250hp or so)
Stock auto tranny
Stock Transfer case

I don't get a lot of time off-road and where I am at Mud is way more prevalent than the rocks. I would say 80% of the trucks life will be spent on the blacktop.

Just wanted some feedback from some more seasoned gurus. I haven't done and gearing since my old Jeep.
 
Your setup should be fine. Are you asking if you should regear? Let's see a pic of your rig:D
 
80 percent on road , then I'd forgo the body lift . A 35 can rub , but not enough to go through the whole body lift saga . Trim the rear fender opening to the surface of the inner fender , bend the trim to cover the edge , and run a self tapping screw through the trim . Would look fine and save you the time and frustration of moving your linkages and such .
 
pauly383 said:
80 percent on road , then I'd forgo the body lift . A 35 can rub , but not enough to go through the whole body lift saga . Trim the rear fender opening to the surface of the inner fender , bend the trim to cover the edge , and run a self tapping screw through the trim . Would look fine and save you the time and frustration of moving your linkages and such .
Click to expand...

I might have to do that. I was still trying to think through the whole bodylift thing. I did one on my old YJ Jeep with no problems at 1.25". Wasn't sure how the Blaze would handle it. It do have a new sawzall that needs breaking in though...:thinking::hack:

Anyone have pics of their trimming. This would be the first time going on that.


***by the way don't worry about the license plates. Those belonged to the previous owner**
 
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You may not need to trim if you dont flex it hard. I have a 4 inch superlift and I haven't trimmed yet.
 
Old pic , but you see how much I cut and with the trim back looks fine :D

83_fender_trim.jpg
 
I think you are wasting money in the axle department. It would be tons cheaper and easier to buy a 8-lug 10-bolt front and either 14SF or FF rear axle for a couple hundred dollars with 4.10's already installed (possibly the most common gear for these axles).

This is assuming:
- you would need to regear the existing axles anyway
- you have not bought tires and wheels yet

My first choice would be the 14FF. The advantages of doing this is that you are already setup for 8-lug if you ever decide to go bigger in the future (can't count the number of "I need bigger axles but I want to keep my blingin' 6 lug wheels" threads), and with the 14FF you basically never to worry about replacing it again. Plus lockers and disc brakes are relatively cheap and easy to install on them.

This is speaking from experience, as I was one of those people who wasted money on regearing 10-bolts to 4.10, installing limited slips, and fancy shafts only to pull it all out a couple years later and resell it for pennies on the dollar so I could get some real axles.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I think you are wasting money in the axle department. It would be tons cheaper and easier to buy a 8-lug 10-bolt front and either 14SF or FF rear axle for a couple hundred dollars with 4.10's already installed (possibly the most common gear for these axles).

This is assuming:
- you would need to regear the existing axles anyway
- you have not bought tires and wheels yet

My first choice would be the 14FF. The advantages of doing this is that you are already setup for 8-lug if you ever decide to go bigger in the future (can't count the number of "I need bigger axles but I want to keep my blingin' 6 lug wheels" threads), and with the 14FF you basically never to worry about replacing it again. Plus lockers and disc brakes are relatively cheap and easy to install on them. quote]

Well the one-tons were my first choice but I haven't been able to find any around here that weren't going for over a 1000 dollars a pop. If i could find them I would definately be doing that. I'm down if even if i have to drive a ways to get one. Just I've personally be unsuccessful in finding one or even a decent donor vehicle.

That in mind anyone know what donor vehicles that these things come under?
Click to expand...
 
3/4 ton suburban 4x4 typically diesel model. The suburban will at least have the 14bsf axle and 10b but diesel's were 14bFF from pretty much every one I've seen here so far. I'd start there if that's what you want to do. But he's right if you need to regear that will be a more cost effective way and you'll not have to worry about strength as much anymore either incase your plans change later in life.
 
Sqeejo said:
Well the one-tons were my first choice but I haven't been able to find any around here that weren't going for over a 1000 dollars a pop. If i could find them I would definately be doing that. I'm down if even if i have to drive a ways to get one. Just I've personally be unsuccessful in finding one or even a decent donor vehicle.

That in mind anyone know what donor vehicles that these things come under?
Click to expand...

You bypassing a step in axles. The rear axles are not expensive at all as a 14FF rear is the same basic axle, it's the front "1-ton" Dana 60 axle that gets in the $1,000 range. You don't need a front Dana 60. Going to an 8-lug 10-bolt or even D44 front axle would be considered going "3/4 ton" and are cheap and easy to find. If ou are willing to pay $1,000/pop for 3/4 ton axles then I will sell you a set;)

FYI: a guy on a local board has advertised Dana 60 front 14FF rear combo for $900 and had not bites, and a friend has been trying to sell a coveted '78-'79 Ford HP Dana 60 for $799 with no offers yet.
 
For your rear end look for a 3/4ton pickup or burb in the same body style. It will bolt directly into your truck.

You can get 14bffs around here for anywhere from 50 to 250. If im not mistaken that is less than a gear set for a 10 bolt?

Just keep your eyes out and you can find deals. I paid 500 bucks for my parts truck and had a matching front and rear and an sm465 205 combo. Parted it out and scrapped the rest and basically got everything i need including a 4in lift for 400. Keep your eyes out. Look for old trucks while are driving around.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I think you are wasting money in the axle department. It would be tons cheaper and easier to buy a 8-lug 10-bolt front and either 14SF or FF rear axle for a couple hundred dollars with 4.10's already installed (possibly the most common gear for these axles).

This is assuming:
- you would need to regear the existing axles anyway
- you have not bought tires and wheels yet

My first choice would be the 14FF. The advantages of doing this is that you are already setup for 8-lug if you ever decide to go bigger in the future (can't count the number of "I need bigger axles but I want to keep my blingin' 6 lug wheels" threads), and with the 14FF you basically never to worry about replacing it again. Plus lockers and disc brakes are relatively cheap and easy to install on them.

This is speaking from experience, as I was one of those people who wasted money on regearing 10-bolts to 4.10, installing limited slips, and fancy shafts only to pull it all out a couple years later and resell it for pennies on the dollar so I could get some real axles.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with 6.2 here.

Sqeejo said:
6.2Blazer said:
I think you are wasting money in the axle department. It would be tons cheaper and easier to buy a 8-lug 10-bolt front and either 14SF or FF rear axle for a couple hundred dollars with 4.10's already installed (possibly the most common gear for these axles).

This is assuming:
- you would need to regear the existing axles anyway
- you have not bought tires and wheels yet

My first choice would be the 14FF. The advantages of doing this is that you are already setup for 8-lug if you ever decide to go bigger in the future (can't count the number of "I need bigger axles but I want to keep my blingin' 6 lug wheels" threads), and with the 14FF you basically never to worry about replacing it again. Plus lockers and disc brakes are relatively cheap and easy to install on them. quote]

Well the one-tons were my first choice but I haven't been able to find any around here that weren't going for over a 1000 dollars a pop. If i could find them I would definately be doing that. I'm down if even if i have to drive a ways to get one. Just I've personally be unsuccessful in finding one or even a decent donor vehicle.

That in mind anyone know what donor vehicles that these things come under?
Click to expand...

You should be able to get a 14 bolt sf/ff for under $200 or probably much cheaper and the 8 lug swap parts for under $150 total too. That cost would be similar to do just chromo rear axle on the rear of the 10 bolt. You could even go with the 14bff that has the gov bomb and still be fine with the tire size you want to run to have some sort of locker in the back. Or, for about $400 you can add a detroit or limited slip to the reat 14bff and still be less cost that your original plan. Just a thought. But I would stay away from upgrading your half ton shafts, etc. I run 35" tires and never broke my axles and wheeled it fairly good but decided I wanted some reliability and safety so I went with the 8lug D44 and 14bff with gov bomb and it gives me some relief. I probably have $700 into my 3/4 ton swap that includes a disked 14bff.
Click to expand...
 
So you are going to regear your stuff. I suppose if you find cheap used stuff you could do that for a couple hundred ( I am assuming master intall kits)

If you are buying new then you are looking at 400 just in parts at least. I bet you can find a set of 3/4 ton axles for that. The vast majority of those have 4.10s already.

Well here looky what I found don't know anything about them but he says make an offer I bet you can get them for a couple hundred if not cheaper http://lubbock.craigslist.org/pts/1336529583.html
 
blazinzuk said:
So you are going to regear your stuff. I suppose if you find cheap used stuff you could do that for a couple hundred ( I am assuming master intall kits)

If you are buying new then you are looking at 400 just in parts at least. I bet you can find a set of 3/4 ton axles for that. The vast majority of those have 4.10s already.

Well here looky what I found don't know anything about them but he says make an offer I bet you can get them for a couple hundred if not cheaper http://lubbock.craigslist.org/pts/1336529583.html
Click to expand...

Woow. Thanks for all the input. I think i just changed my direction a little on this project. I am emailing that guy to see what they came out of and what his price is.
 
I believe Jeff has got some axles for sale up that way as well. might want to pm him.
 
**Update**

Okay so I think i have found the axles I need to get started on my Junk. :D (if all goes well)

Here is a revised list of mods:

will be running:
Was
4 inch lift
1 inch body lift
35" BFG Mud terrains
10-bolts front and rear
C-moly shafts from ORD
4.11 gears
front open diff, rear locker(undetermined)
Stock 350 with a few go fast goodies (est 250hp or so)
Stock auto tranny
Stock Transfer case

Now:
4-6 inch lift
Fender trim
35"-37" BFG MT
14-bolt SF 4.56 w/detroit
10-bolt front like geared

Now my question is what lift setup, i.e manufacturer, all-spring vs. shackles (I prefer spring if its less work) shocks, etc. Any preferences on this one. I have read a lot about Tuff Country but I know there are going to be differences in opinion on this one.
 
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