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Severe Duty fan clutch may be too much

Chief Brody

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So I had the issue with the engine running a little hot a while back and I decided to replace the fan clutch...but this time I replaced the Standard with a Super Duty...I think it's too much...It's like a hovercraft under the hood and I can't even get the engine very warm.

Have any of you ever used the Super Duty and then went back to Heavy Duty or Standard?
 
Yes and nope. I used one that I guarantee is even stronger than yours, worked amazing and I never looked back. I’d be using it now if it worked on a serpentine system.

Fyi, the clutch I used was an “extreme duty” unit specific to a 454 with HD cooling AND 4.56 gears.
 
I'm told my rig has an HD fan clutch from a 454 and even driving in 30* weather it gets up to temp easily and stays there.
 
Fan clutch is Severe Duty

It's too freekin loud and blows too much air in my opinion...may be had on my water pump too?
 
Engine never reaches the normal temp since that fan clutch
 
I have a heavy duty on my ls 6.0 and i joke and say it's my supercharger... I want to change it but running under 200 for hours down the highway at 80 I don't.
 
Is it a thermostatic fan, or a "cheapy" without the thermal function? Im assuming all are the same, but every one with the coil I've ever seen has the bi-metallic coil exposed on the front. And those fans essentially "shut off" when the temp isnt high enough. The cheap non-thermostatics do not.

No clue why they'd make a high performance fan cheaply, but money is a powerful incentive...
 
Is it a thermostatic fan, or a "cheapy" without the thermal function? Im assuming all are the same, but every one with the coil I've ever seen has the bi-metallic coil exposed on the front. And those fans essentially "shut off" when the temp isnt high enough. The cheap non-thermostatics do not.

No clue why they'd make a high performance fan cheaply, but money is a powerful incentive...


It has the coil...but that fan is stiff...I am pretty sure I am going to change it back to a normal HD
 
IIRC, they should be stiff to rotate when cold (startup) but fairly quickly should stop moving as much air. With the engine warm, when you shut it down, if the viscous portion is working properly, it should spin pretty freely.

I recall on the 454 truck we had, with the HD fan, it sounded like a plane taking off on startup with the hood up, and the noise reduction was noticeable when it "unlocked".

I would agree that even with the right thermostat, in cooler temps, it is possible to overcool an engine if the cooling system is effective enough. I've seen that effect coasting downhill in cooler temps even without the fan running.
 
I used to have to manually lock the spring on the 400SB I had in my previous plow truck when I had the plow on it,otherwise it would overheat...

I tried everything to keep it from boiling over after 5-10 miles with the plow on it--found out it had no thermostat in it at first,I replaced it,that did nothing to help,then put in a 4 core radiator,it took longer,but would still boil over eventually..
Finally a mechanic at a chevy dealer told me how you could lock in the clutch by taking the spring out of its holder and rotating it 180 degrees,he said many of the dealer prepped plow trucks had that listed in the instructions --I tried it and ta-da,it never went over halfway on the gauge..but it sounded like I was driving an airboat !..

Come spring I'd unlock the coil spring and the noise reduction was immediately noticeable..with it locked in its like a super duper leaf blower..you could feel the increase in HP too..
 
Well, once again I jump in with a Ford story.......
When I ordered my '89, among lots of the custom packages was the Supercooling package. Bigger radiator, oil cooler, power steering cooler, and bigger fan and heavy duty clutch to handle the extra fan load.
After I got it out of the truck shop where they modified it, I was driving it down hwy 231, the main 4 lane headed out of town. Kinda a cool day, I was in the right lane, and heard a semi coming up along side.
But, he did not pass. I started checking my mirrors, and there was no one there.
Then it sounded like the truck had slowed down or turned off.
Finally realized it was the fan clutch. With the big fan, when it engaged, it was loud. I could watch my temp gauge, and it would ease up slightly, I would hear the fan kick in, and it would ease back down then the fan would quiet down.
I quickly got used to it.
Many years later, I was stuck and winching myself out. Truck started running hot. Got out and checked. The fan was just freewheeling on the shaft.
I had not noticed it when driving because the air flow was enough to keep it in range.
I had some strong cord in the toolbox. Tied it around the base of one of the fan blades, wound it several times tightly around the shaft in the opposite direction of rotation.
In other words, so that it would tighten when the motor was running. Tied it back to the fan, and it kept things cool until I could winch out. Made sure I did not rev the engine very fast until I was out.
Went to the parts store, bought a fan clutch for that model truck. I don't think I ever heard it kick on. It lasted about a week and a half, then started leaking oil.
Got another one under warranty, not quite a week before it started freewheeling.
Saw the same parts guy, he said they must have gotten a bad batch. Had a sudden thought. I asked him if they showed a fan clutch for my truck with super cooling package.
Sure enough, different part number, much heavier clutch. Not sure, but I think it might be the same one on there now.
I did figure out why the first one failed. I was at my hunting camp and the river was up. Going in and out, the fan would go underwater for about 1/4 mile at a time. I think the internal oil pressure from the stalled fan just blew the seal.

If yours is roaring all the time, I suspect that its not because of the heavy duty part, its probably defective. Like they said, when the oil is stiff and cold, and has settled out into both sides of the clutch, its normal for it to blow for a few seconds at startup. But, with the fan thermostat closed, its supposed to pump all the oil into the reserve side of the clutch and not leave much to hit the stator.
When the radiator air heats up, the thermostat moves, and opens a port from the reserve side to the active side. So as the stator pumps the oil back into the reserve side, the resulting friction causes the fan to turn closer to belt speed. The warmer the air, the larger the port, and the more oil it sees.
I would run the truck until it gets as warm as it can, stop the engine and try to spin the fan right away. It should not freewheel, but you should get almost a full turn after you spin it by hand.
If it stops as soon as you stop pushing it, and the clutch is fairly warm, its a bad clutch, not too big a one.
EDIT: Actually I got that wrong. I would crank the truck, run it a few minutes, not long enough to warm up much, then check the fan.
With the engine still cool, and the fan clutch in running mode, it should be real easy to spin. You have to run it long enough to pump the oil where it should be, then it should spin easily.

The heavy duty part is mostly for bigger fans to handle the load, not lower temps. One designed for a bigger fan might have some increased resistance when hot, but not that much.
 
In my 460 motorhome the fan clutch grabbed and released so distinctly it really sounded like an electric fan turning on and off. I put a HD clutch on my 6.0 and it's so loud I can't hear the exhaust anymore. I've considered swapping the old normal one on for normal driving, just for the noise reduction, but it would probably help MPG as well.
 
I wish I could find a true nasty severe duty clutch for a serpentine application.
 
We recently put some sort of extra HD clutch on one of the 6.0L trucks and it was super noisy and pulling all the time. It went back to Napa and a more normal one went on.

One version of my K5 when it had a body had a 2 fan feature. One fan was locked up and the other wasn't locked at all. I just bolted on the right one for the time. After putting the locked up fan on for a snow wheeling trip and then leaving it on driving over the passes on the way home I realized how much power those things can pull. It gives me a lot of respect for how much air a clutch fan moves.
 
The amount of air moved is relative to the cube of the work.

OK, that made no sense at all. It sounded so good in my head....

In other, hopefully more correct words, to double the amount of air a fan moves, you have to supply the cube of the horsepower. To double the amount of air, (2X) it takes 2X2X2 or 8 times the horsepower. To triple the air, would take 27 times the horsepower.

I needed to increase the air from a large attic type fan I installed many years ago in my barn. I was trying to pull the diesel exhaust from my big genset out without having to punch a hole in the roof and modify the exhaust pipe and muffler.
It was running on a 1/4 horse motor. I measured the current draw, and compared it to the nameplate. Since it was a belt drive, I was hoping I could change the pulley slightly.
It was already pretty much maxed out.
I had a 1/2 horse sitting around off another piece of equipment, so I adapted it up. Just a slight pulley size change maxed it out. I could not tell the difference in air flow.
I claim to be an engineer, but had not worked with air flow that much. So, I did some research. Spotted the cube effect fairly quickly.
Finally bought a 1-1/2 TEFC and that did the trick. I don't think I quite doubled the air flow, but got enough to do the job.
At least until either a squirrel or large rat got caught in the fan belt when the genset kicked on, and the resulting "explosion" ripped the fan motor off its mount.
Before I could get around to rebuilding it, the hurricane hit, and most of that end of the barn is history.
 
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